Adam2

So if you run a 10mm pipe to the bathroom hand basin in a full bathroom with shower/bath you then also need to also run a bigger bore hot feed to the shower and/or bath as well to get decent flow?

If the main risk is water in shower heads due to contamination through air exposure then I don't see how heating the tank periodically will make any difference at all to mitigate that risk as by the time the "fresh" hot water arrives at the shower head the bacteria is already in your eyes, ears and nose. If this is correct then hard to see any point in heating the tank to 65.

Ahh - nothing is too late - this is still at design stage - my concern re changing construction method significantly and impacting levels etc was going back to architect & SE, which I can do of course if that is the right thing. Not sure of the booby trap/rotting? I though the make up was a pretty standard approach and similar things must have been done recently many many times for roof terraces etc. The questions really were just around the pedestals on the EDPM on the Insulation and whether this may pose a problem with durability of the EDPM - have since seen the pedestal makers state they are for installing direct on the EDPM so this should be OK : https://www.rubber4roofs.co.uk/shop/paving-slab-support

For cameras this seems to fit the spec: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Imou-Weatherproof-Deterrence-Surveillance-Floodlight/dp/B07HSSC84S/ref=pd_sbs_421_24?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07HSSC84S&pd_rd_r=3ada4810-3158-46d0-998b-2ff0b6fdfb85&pd_rd_w=eQzTR&pd_rd_wg=AFfa1&pf_rd_p=2b420a2f-6593-478e-8b5f-cb43865ff16f&pf_rd_r=HS9N1997EHWK5P49SCAZ&psc=1&refRID=HS9N1997EHWK5P49SCAZ And this one with LED flood light https://www.amazon.co.uk/ANNKE-Floodlight-Advanced-Spotlight-Surveillance/dp/B07SMG2SQL/ref=sr_1_84?keywords=wifi+webcam+PIR&qid=1570117962&s=gateway&sr=8-84 Potential 4G wifi hub: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07BQZFYKY/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07BQZFYKY&pd_rd_w=O6l4p&pf_rd_p=1055d8b2-c10c-4d7d-b50d-96300553e15d&pd_rd_wg=yU0YU&pf_rd_r=68JCQH2RAG9HZ7P3T4ZS&pd_rd_r=e7cdf009-64d8-4214-b850-13bf28036723&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExTUlRNkxYOFVPSFlJJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNzg5NzYzMVk3U0ZBWU1MNEhVRyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMTkyMzUzM0YzMFBLTDlIU1FRTSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2RldGFpbCZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

As a distraction from the many things I have to actually do as we prepare for demolition I thought I'd have fun with some tech ? Not planning on having broadband during the build but thinking to have a couple of exterior grade webcams connecting over wifi to a 4G mobile data hub which would have power from the on-site regular supply. Objectives being act as a deterrent, if needed help ID culprits, build a demolition/build time lapse and allow me to get an idea of who is on-site (I'm 5 miles away most days so just as a backup). Cameras would be within 10m of the hub and have clear line of sight to the hub. May have a camera 1.5m from ground (discrete position) to try and get faces captured. Ideally wanting PIR based trigger for short video/image capture which would be sent out over 4G to a . There are loads of cameras and loads of mobile 4G hubs so would welcome any recommendations based on your experience with any of these. Thinking the hub would go in an exterior cabinet maybe even the main elec supply one.

Ordered one of those - use code SUMMERCLAS for 10% discount and you get free delivery also ?

Cheers @willbish that detail is really helpful - plenty of interesting products from IKO!

Thanks for the link - but we're looking more for a tiled look to continue the inside outside or the outside inside whatever it is :-)

Thanks. Will look at those pedestals also. Agree re VCL over concrete all good there. My questions in initial post were in relation to whether I need OSB over the PIR and beneath the single ply and if I also may need something over the single-ply as this will have pedestals and tiles on top of it? Would be good to know what others have done and how it has worked out.

Hi - well, we'll be needing the insulation over the concrete (AFAIK) and will be laid to a 1:40 fall so will be using the pedestals to level out the tiles (free-draining where the grout would usually be). BUT - please, if there are other ways to achieve this then totally open to hearing about them. I don't really want the insulation inside as that will impact the ceiling heights/cause various dramas with levels etc.

I'm going to have a couple of roof terraces that are over habitable rooms and currently expecting to use EDPM with the structure beneath being waterproof concrete. The finished surface will be tiles on adjustable pedestals. So am thinking the make up will be: concrete -> VCL -> PIR -> EDPM -> Pedestals -> tiles Should the VCL be beneath the concrete instead? I'm guessing I should probably have OSB or similar attached through the PIR (below EDPM) into the concrete to ensure rigidity? Should I expect wide based pedestals to spread load sufficiently such that they would not damage the EDPM or PIR?

Same style of retaining wall as per the upper one in the first image. The furthest part of the lower area retaining wall (so the bit above the "W" in pic 2) is ~3m from the end of our garden so we could build up the gabions from the other side of the lower area and then not reply on the existing retaining wall supporting the lower area. Will have to see if we can get our demolition cost reduced if we use this much rubble! This will all be about 30m from the house and involves a drop of about 8m - would we need some form of intermediate attenuation to avoid the high speed water delivery into the crates?

Am building (demo + rebuild) and planning site for soakaway crates. Garden is on a fair old slope and I was wondering if possibility to use the soakaways to help level up the bottom part of the garden - wanted to test my idea here before going to BC (independent). If relevant, f is 0.000016 and run-off will be ~440m2 The existing garden is tiered and heavily overgrown aside from the lower area where there are 2 flatish areas of lawn (well pine needle covered moss) where the lower level is 1m down with an existing retaiing wall. I'm wondering if I could do the following: 1. On lower garden level, install a retaining wall - using gabions about 1m high 2. Remove the top ~800mm of soil for the area required from lower level 3. Put down base (if required) for crates 4. Install the drainage connection into the crates for later connection into the drainage coming down from house 5. Install membrane around creates 6. backfill with gravel etc around crates to fill in gap down to the new retaining wall (probably including some rubble from demolition) 7. replace the soil from (2) over/around the crates/rubble etc raising the finished level to match upper level - probably looking at 300mm of topsoil Crates would be surrounded by between 2 & 3m of soil/rubble Maybe would need a waterproof membrane inside the gabion retaining wall to help ensure water does not through them Couple of images one looking up from lower level and w looking down onto lower level. Suggestions on improving etc appreciated

Is there a limit on the max distance the main supply cable can be from the meter point in the cabinet outside to a consumer unit (or other initial internal connection point)? Mine looks like 18-22m

Am about to start our demolition prep in anticipation of planning approval (#3)! On the job list is our outside elec cabinet location and having seen this @Bitpipeam wondering about the pros/cons of keeping it in the same place long term and running the house and garage supplies from there after the build vs relocating the main supply termination inside the house. Would save extra cost for moving supply after the build though downside I guess could be security - someone could easily turn off all power to the house, not sure why but you never know, may be mitigated by some disguising of the cabinet? Would appreciate thoughts on the security point. If we do leave it in-situ presumably a suitably qualified electrician can do everything else we would need without requiring DNO or our supply co to do anything? If the cabinet is initially mounted ~1m off the ground on timber and later we wanted to move within the range of the supply cable flexibility is that allowed - am thinking we may make something more robust for longer term suitability than the timber so could move a small amount?

Thanks again - lot of thinking to be done, my plumber and electrician will hopefully get their heads around this - though plenty of time for that....

Great thanks - got it now ? Didn't realise that the pump would run just because the timeslot is "on" without also needing the thermostat to require heat/cool - though of course it must as you can have multiple sensors off 1 manifold for different rooms. Will have a look at programmers that support time slots set for both heating and cooling - is that a common feature? Mind sharing which model you are using?

Thanks - though I was curious about the operation of the pumps when the heating/cooling is off???

How do you control the pump when just recirculating the water (with no heat/cool activated on the ASHP)? Are the pumps running 24 x 7?

Building down a hill so lower 2 floors have their backs in the ground and sides partially. Water table is not a problem and ground is mainly compressed sand/sandstone so drains well apparently - consequently not especially concerned about water penetration but planning on a warrantied solution (likely Triton) to provide some assurance to a future owner as may not live here for 10 years.

Any of you have waterproof admix? if so, what % increase did that make? I'm looking at ~40% - gulp

Same story - have required window co to split the order into 3 with different reference numbers - they actually didn't moan about this so maybe I'm over-paying ? When it comes to ICF order have gone with a large co that seems to be doing OK so fingers crossed when we pay that one out and then wait a while as I don't think they take cards. If using cards - we are using a BA Amex that earns you a companion flight ticket - other smart options exist so you get some value back from the card co. Though as mentioned earlier you don't have to pay the whole lot on the cards.

Is there any concern with being directly above a shower with the vapour being too wet? I thought I read somewhere (manufacturer or possibly on here) about having the extract just outside of the shower area so you had the heat and the water vapour was more gradually removed?

Very similar design to ours. Can I ask - how solid to the walls/pocket doors feel? Have seen some that are not so good.

Russell from my experience big firms seem to volunteer discounts! Ideal Combi 20% off until end of year! Another firm I'm workign with 20% and I'm in negotiations. Equally another may price to a tight margin at the start. Seems it is best to get prices in early and negotiate then let things settle and see who wants it most/who you like most/other factors etc