Adam2

OK so I met with the architect today on a number of subject, including the fall from height bits. It seems these were included in the BR notes as a recommendation and they do not see these as being something the BC body has an interest in. The reason for doing so is professional indemnity related (you could say because they care ) apparently there have been claims against architects due to accidents happening relating to items that were not identified as risks by the architect. If we choose to ignore the recommendation that is our choice. Big relief - was very helpful though going into the discussion being much better informed so thanks again for all the helpful comments and links above.

Great thanks for that bit @JSHarris

Interesting ideas thanks. This is a draft doc from the architect to accompany BR drawings. I liked the portable system I linkes to in the original post. Well, price was ok. There is 1 area if the roof that you could access without ladders (single storey) so if the independent BC company insist on something will try and limit to that area and see if they accept the portable solution. Alternatively or 4 maybe preferably see if they accept some connection rings set through the EPS into the wall though will need to know about cwerification etc. If that fails then maybe block access to that roof area at a height they accept. Currently it is accessible from a terrace by climbing over a std height 1.1m balustrade, could maybe make that 1.8m. Key point I think is to find the applicable rules on this. Thanks again, will update as I progress.

I have a few flat roof areas: Garage - has a drop to rear/side of 5m ground floor - has drop to side of 3m top floor has drop of I expect 12m (could hurt!) My draft building regs doc includes: MANSAFE SYSTEMS Proprietary Latchway’s (or similar approved) fall restraint mansafe systems to be provided to all roof areas without permanent guarding for fall protection. Mansafe system to be designed in accordance with all relevant British Standards and legislation. Layout, fixing and method of accessing mansafe systems all to manufacturers / specialist subcontractors design. Drawings to be provided for review by design team, client and contractor prior to order being placed. All fixings to be confirmed by structural engineer and roofing subcontractor. Is this a standard building regs requirement i.e., mandatory or just good practice? If I do have to do this any suggestions for economical methods? I found a portable system - though you might injure yourself moving it :-) https://simplifiedsafety.co.uk/anchors-lifelines/mobile-man-anchor/weightanka-6-weights

Thanks have added some notes to my plan so I remember this ? @jack yes good spot - I expect to have utilities enter at back left so water softener could be good here to keep kitchen / utility free. @Dudda yes thinking to have hot & cold manifold and then a hot return from the top floor manifold. Will be using some form of home automation technology - currently trialing Fibaro Z wave in current house) so may use the elec cabinet as the hub for that. Was thinking to have a small AV cupboard but if I can fit it all in here then that could be even better - hadn't really thought of doing that. Luckily my initial plan shows this opposite end to wet stuff and may be prudent to have cabinet 100mm off the floor as well...just in case. Only issue may putting laundry on the cabinet if we put a drying rack in here ?

Hi, we're closing on on finalising the revised planning app and I'm thinking what will be in our plant room - appreciate thoughts on layout and additional items I may have missed. I have read about the DHW cylinder being near most frequent/heavy points of use but the plant room seems best place may go with a PIR activated hot return to help with that. House is ~300m and the spec (from BPC) was for 2 x MVHR units - am thinking one can go in the plant room to serve the 2 floors nearest and the other can go 1 floor up in the garage. Heating is UFH with an ASHP which I'm thinking will be well located just outside the plant room - not near any neighbours and any noise will not be near any windows. My layout idea is below. The dimensions are from the expected components we've been looking at so far. There is a separate utility room for washing machine/storage and drier etc. One idea I read about somewhere was for a drying rack in the plant room - may be an add-on when we finish it. Not currently planning on any windows. Location is Dorset and the position of this room is to the side of a lower ground floor and will be mostly shaded from the sun.

Some of the hollowcore suppliers have span tables on their website which may help. I sent my planning drawings with some additional notes out to 2 if them to get initial ideas on cost. But having read the above posts will check with the SE on deflection. Is it beneficial to use some mesh in the screed over hollowcore to help reduce any deflection?

Would an amp be more sensitive to interference being in a metal box with other electronics? May find the IT cabinet suppliers may give competitive prices - especially if it's not on display so you're not fussy on looks. I'm planning on a cabinet with a patch panel, power supply and shelves for non-rack mounted kit. Not sure how well lighting controllers will go in there or if may be better suited to a less-deep DIN rail mounted elsewhere...

very envious - do it in a blog, always useful to read and of course great if with pics

Your demolition contractor I would expect to have public liability cover which would be OK for the demolition period (when I had quotes the contractors provided copy of insurance doc). BUT, what about after the demolition? If you do not have cover are you at risk from someone doing something stupid on your land resulting in a possible claim?

Thanks for the info and links. Yes, the PVGIS calc includes the surface angles. The shading model gives the percentage of shade for each hour so will have a look at that next.

Hi, I'm pre-empting the SAP calcs by modelling the expected solar gain - prior to any external shading being installed and would appreciate input re any errors in my approach. I've used PVGIS to estimate the kwh / m2 for my location using a PV panel angle of 90 degrees and azimuth of 45 (SW) to simulate the sun hitting the windows. Of the two satellite datasets available I used the one with higher values (~5% higher) This gives me the monthly kWh values (1st column) as below. The 2nd column is the monthly energy x glazing size (after 25% shading reduction). 3rd column is energy after G value reduction (G = 0.4). I then divided by 29 to get an approx amount of energy per day. Finally, I figured that the energy would only be coming when the sun was in the right place so estimated over how many hours this daily energy would be delivered to give me an approximation of the energy per hour this would be. Apologies for any inaccurate use of kwh capitalisation! This excludes energy reflected from external surfaces, not sure how significant this would be or how to estimate. Would appreciate any points to improve this modelling. Per Month total energy kWh /m2 Energy hitting windows (net of shading) Net of G and shading Per Day (avg 29 days) Approx relevant hours/Day kw Per hour Jan 34.5 1,294 518 18 5 3.6 Feb 47.8 1,793 717 25 6 4.1 Mar 81.6 3,060 1,224 42 8 5.3 Apr 93.5 3,506 1,403 48 9 5.4 May 91.6 3,435 1,374 47 10 4.7 Jun 87.5 3,281 1,313 45 10 4.5 Jul 90 3,375 1,350 47 10 4.7 Aug 84.1 3,154 1,262 44 9 4.8 Sep 79.5 2,981 1,193 41 8 5.1 Oct 60.9 2,284 914 32 7 4.5 Nov 41 1,538 615 21 6 3.5 Dec 32 1,200 480 17 5 3.3 After this step I plan to: Model the benefit of different sized shading options to end up with a solar gain in the spring through to autumn period which will be acceptable. Presumably the gain will be greatest when the sun is more aligned to the glazing so I could model this on a per hour basis with different over-hangs etc using the Sustainable by design tools. Link in with the heat loss calculation spreadsheet to see how the gains will assist with the house heating needs. Finally, try to work out how an ASHP in cooling mode combined with evening purge/ use of MVHR +/- duct cooling will get us to an overall model of heating and cooling.

@JSHarris couldn't see if this was asked before - Row 77 is labelled as a daily heat loss figure but when this value is used in Row 84 (Monthly heat energy input) the formula (in Row 84) multiplies the Row 77 value by 24 and also by the number of days in the month. I'm just getting to grips with some of the terminology used but this looks to me like Row 77 is the hourly rather than daily figure - would appreciate setting straight on this if poss.

This is also on alibaba - so I would expect prices to start coming down soon for the tile profiles - you can buy a min of 10m from some alibaba suppliers (not exactly the same though) so not so bad

Wow the link has tile trim @ £25 for 2.5m there must be some margin in that ? Though I see their LED strip to go inside is £59 for 2.5m. Could look really effective in right environment but hard to see why it is quite that price. In the scheme of a house build not so crazy but as above, Amazon 5m colour changing AND waterproof unlike the product in the original link only £16. I have cheapo colour changing LED strips in my camper van and they worked fine for the past few years so I'd wonder what makes the others worth £59. Note the Amazon one here also has a UK 12v adaptor (to answer your question) https://www.amazon.co.uk/Waterproof-MINGER-Lighting-Changing-Strips/dp/B0799CJLFF/ref=sr_1_7?s=kitchen&ie=UTF8&qid=1551650769&sr=1-7&keywords=led%2Bwaterproof&th=1 Quick search found another supplier though not for the corner/edge https://www.bltdirect.com/2-metre-recessed-aluminium-led-profile-p6-7-65mm-x-15mm-c-w-clear-cover?adcid=pla&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7ojElf_m4AIVzLHtCh1GzwqGEAQYAiABEgLWKfD_BwE Hmm will think about how this may fit in lighting scheme - was pondering this in walls/ceiling in living area - in a subtle manner ?

Thanks for the responses, I do disagree a little - seeing as I'm choosing, paying and living in the house etc etc my opinion counts for quite a lot ? I think inadvertently you agree with me then @Russell griffiths in my summary re primary factors above. For sure I am well beyond believing all that is in a glossy brochure. The builder has a preference but that is based on what he is used to - not saying that is an issue at all, but if we let builders, architects, engineers always do what they are used to we wouldn't be driving much change. Changing blocks half way through - agreed, a nightmare scenario to be avoided. I was interested if any contributors with a more technical understanding could shed light on differences of metal and steel within ICF

Sorry, I probably wasn't clear, was in reference to the concrete shrinkage during curing.

OK so decision on ICF is being made soon. My engineer has a general affinity with metal as his view is the concrete will bond do steel so when curing will remain bonded unlike with plastic which may shrink as it cures leaving small pathways for possible water transfer. The build will have 2 retaining walls so waterproofing is an important factor. Though ground is sand based and we're top of a hill so minimal risk of standing water. My feelings are that the ties are encased in EPS so protected from water generally unless somehow it gets in via EPS joins after passing the external membrane and finds a route via cracks in the waterproof cement down to the ties.... Other factor is fixings - attaching to steel should be better than plastic as will not go brittle and possibly crack also steel may be more robust in the event of fire. Final thought is concrete compaction may be expected to be better in concrete due to the slimmer nature of the ties - thin round bars Vs more complex plastic structure - though of course the plastic generally has easier fitting of rebar. My view is that these are pretty marginal considerations and should be secondary to U values, experience of my preferred contractor and cost. Though I would appreciate opinions and experience from others on here. Thanks Adam

Mounting on concrete seems logical and what I would want though check fixing methods allowed as some may only use straps rather than fixings through the frames. Straps will need an amount of solid area inside the frame.

I love these adverts, Downside: "May be running out of stock soon" PMSL? ?

Infuriating. Did you look at getting this trim made yourself? - can't help but think that is your easiest way to get what you need. Not nice having to do that but not being able to progress for many more weeks with no guarantee of success seems worse than sourcing this direct

Slowly narrowing it down ? currently discussions with engineer (who has ICF experience) re plastic ties vs metal - he has a slight pref for metal as he believes concrete will bond to them whereas with the plastic there is the risk that as the concrete cures the lack of adherence to plastic could increase likelihood of potential water paths - 2 of our walls will be below ground so more of a consideration for us than for some others (using waterproof concrete + external membrane + water-stops etc).

Had a decent price from Protek for ICF ~320m2 build in a complex site with 2 retaining walls. Though they do not cover below ground on self builds - if relevant, am looking at Triton for waterproofing as if you use a recognised contractor a warranty is available (insurance backed).

I was looking on alibaba - lots of suppliers there, if enough interest that could work out well. I just need to remember to build a hidden mounting in my ICF before we render - I say remember as this is still somewhere in the distance....

Thermofloor looks like resulting in v thick floors. Have also seen Lewis Deck. Will ask my engineer about the combo of timber joists & ~50mm of concrete on steel planks re floor thickness. If anyone has used this would be good to know if any experience of the "feel" or soundproofing vs solid concrete.