Adam2

I don't understand, have I missed something? I thought the only difference was that the centre pane was either clear or satin. Why has one got softcoat and are the spacers the same? Warm Edge = W/E but something I can check with them. TBH softcoat I would expect to be in all units when I get their revised spec and pricing will check all have exactly the same detail or at least that I understand why it might differ. Also no idea on "VTE"

Thanks - this is an opaque one 1500 mm x 1350 mm, Consisting of a Top Hung Window. ODC77 Colours: 76 7M16 Matt Anthracite grey Pré-ano Glazing: 1 x (4mm Clear Tgh/4mm Satin Tgh/4mm Clear Softcoat Tgh {W/E Spacer, Argon Filled} Triple Glazed) U g =1.2 W/(m 2 K) and this is a clear one for comparison 4476 mm x 1850 mm, Consisting of a Tilt before Turn Window and three Fixed Fields. ODC77 Colours: 76 7M16 Matt Anthracite grey Pré-ano Glazing: 4 x (4mm Clear Tgh/4mm Clear Tgh VTE/4mm Clear Tgh VTE {Blk Warm Edge, Argon Filled} Triple Glazed) U g =0.7 W/(m 2 K) ODC77 is a high insulating window system that meets elevated requirements regarding thermal insulation, stability and security. Anticipating on the thermal requirements, the insulation value (Uf) for the HI+ variant of this system goes down to 1.7 W/m²K for a standard opening window. The unique concept of the system makes it perfectly suitable for triple glazing and ODC77 even achieved the Swiss Minergie® component label.

Well after further discussion the supplier is adamant that the 3G windows will be negatively impacted by the satin coat as this means that the necessary energy efficiency related coating cannot be applied hence the change from 0.7 to 1.2. I struggle to accept this but there are only a few opaque windows so probably not worth any more energy on that with them. When I mentioned others quotes has the same U value for opaque units he questioned if they really did so seems they are pretty convinced on the subject. When I get the time will try and get info from a glass manufacturer. Ultimately they will be 3G so hopefully it is just a spec/interpretation issue. They did suggest krypton gas to improve U values but at a cost....

Looking at the marked one below with more info here : https://www.pilkington.com/en-gb/uk/products/product-categories/solar-control/pilkington-suncool-range/pilkington-suncool-ow

Thanks, yes for larger items (e.g. brisse soleil) was thinking to either set fixings pre-pour or cut out blocks of the EPS (and board over during pour) so we'd have concrete blocks to fix into. If we missed something we'd go with concrete fixings as suggested. After rendering I think it's tough to expect to find webbing with any accuracy unless you do something to make them identifiable but that's a pain for a whole house exterior. Will plan what we can and for small/light things (light exterior lights) those small screws with wide screw in plastic base look like a good option thanks.

Hi, interested to know what ICF builders have done for attaching things like external lights/guttering/cctv/other random things to the outside of their houses. Going through to the concrete seems a little excessive. Our finish will mainly be render on a mesh on the EPS though I've been thinking maybe of using cement board but this will add quite a bit to materials & labour I expect so good to hear any inventive options you've used ?

We're getting solar control glass and ideally want the optiwhite range from pilkington, for the sliding doors a local supplier is fine to provide this but some of the European window companies won't commit to this and state an equivalent will be provided and although they may look similar I want to be 100% sure they will look 100% the same where we have a large window near a sliding door where they come from different companies.

If from same supplier should use same glass in both as small differences will be noticable. If using different suppliers I would be cautious about having windows on the same side of the building being different to doors -I'm currently going through this conundrum!

We started planning a remodel but realised too many compromises so switched to a rebuild which as mentioned above has the VAT advantage, less compromises (at least our choices not imposed by building) and ultimately despite costing more will be a higher value house so ultimately a better value approach.

Thanks @craig I'm going back to them asking them to check and if they maintain it is 1.2 will ask for more detail on glass spec - though I'm expecting it to be the same glass spec as before (U0.7) with just the satin coat on the middle pane

Thanks - I will get them to go back and check as your replies fit with my expectation also.

No still 3G 4/4/4 with middle having a satin coating, warm edge spacer and argon. Didn't list the gap between glazing though but don't think that is the issue here

Well that was a surprise! Changing a window currently U for the 3G glazed element is 0.7. Why on earth would changing it to be opaque result in this changing to 1.2? I struggle to believe that a coating on glass can have such an impact but it has been stated by a supplier and this is what is in their quote so I thought I would check in here with others. Really appreciate your views before I go back and challenge them ?

Ahh thanks @JSHarris most helpful for me also.

Does your Nudura supplier have a recommendation? Beyond selling EPS closures :-) I'm thinking to go with wood framework in place of EPS for anything > [a loading TBD]. Certainly would be concerned about my 2.8m high 3G sliding doors on EPS given the calcs in the earlier post so very interested. I think I remember an earlier thread where the recommendation was to mount the windows over the outer edge of EPS (on a support) to reduce thermal bridge, that feels like a lot of work for potentially not much incremental gain - for me at least, am sure is appropriate for some people/situations.

Great thanks - checked EA website and Zone 1 so no risk assessment needed as <1 Ha development, link for future reference https://flood-map-for-planning.service.gov.uk/ There's a good walkthough of the percolation test here: http://suds-solutions.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/How-to-carry-out-a-percolation-test.pdf , have calculated the roof + hard standing and will work on assumption of being impermeable (for now at least) and ave the figure of so I have the info needed for input into calcs. Have checked with my Building Regs co if they will accept the usual test method. My query was really the format to present the calcs/other content that was relevant to include but if they may just accept my word that it is compliant that's great! Will see what they think about that :-)

Hi, I stumbled across the below monster of a report for the above and seeing as many have done their own equivalents I figured you didn't stretch to 52 pages :-) If someone could share with me their report covering these 2 topics that I could use as a template that would be greatly appreciated. I think my SE is angling for this to be the next item he looks to add on to the "extras" list :-) https://www.bournemouth.gov.uk/councildemocratic/CouncilMeetings/CommitteeMeetings/PlanningBoard/2017/10/16/reports/1-mcwilliam-flood-risk-assesment-and-drainage-report.pdf

We had a 5.5m opening from living area into garden and like you, didn't want to cover. In the end it was actually really fine in the dark - we had lighting in the garden under trees & large shrubs which made for a nice scene rather than being stark. Not overly lit, just enough to highlight the underside of branches etc. Lights on a timer and daylight sensor so on when dark enough but off at say midnight until 5pm. Depending on what is outside, this may work for you also.

Thanks - very helpful info. @scottishjohn just not sure that only insulating the roof and not the other 3 sides (1 side is against the house) will help with temp? Another factor is that the garage is mostly elevated - it extends out on a slope supported on a steel frame so the underside (beam+block) will get cold so adding to the argument I think that just insulating the roof may not make much difference

Thanks- will change this and save some money and time :-) Much appreciated

Alwitra - single ply membrane I believe. I will of course ask them for reasons but wanted to quickly check here first

Quick one - my architect has spec'd sloping insulation in the garage roof - it will NEVER be converted into a "room". A - sloping = more costly vs the timbers being at an angle so that's mad and B - why even think about this? To me seems a bit odd as the construction is regular single skin blockwork with the side against the house being the house's ICF exterior wall. It will house 1 of our MVHR units but I checked and the supplier says no problem in a regular garage. I would have thought that a garage constructed like this would get to external air temp quite quickly with or without an insulated roof as the double door will not be anywhere near air-tight. Am I missing something in my understanding? This only came to light when I asked for a drainpipe to be moved and saw the detail in the roof structure. Thanks

We are thinking of having a top floor rooflight (over landing above stairs) automated to open if temp nearby reaches a threshold (TBD). Presumably we would benefit from a lower floor window or rooflight opening to allow incoming air. A quick search throes up some interesting Z Wave compatible products: https://www.fakro.co.uk/products/all-products/electric-control/controlling-devices/

Really interesting am just thinking of the same challenge for mine, also ICF. Are you planning to render over the edge of the window frame and have no cills (though I see one pic has a cill)??

Planning on Nudura so EPS. If we went with own additional insulation that of course could be PIR for the width/U benefit. Looks like that would get down to 0.15. We'll probably live in the house ~5 years so need to consider cost/benefit over this period. Though of course we may change our minds after we finish building it ?