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nod

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Everything posted by nod

  1. Building is absolutely manic at the moment Everything is behind
  2. No the air test is totally separate which will need to be done in person You will be given a certificate as most houses pass Your final sapp accessor will ask for this along with the above His or her calculation will be done as a desktop report No need for a visit
  3. Yes it’s a bit of a sham really No certificate needed or inspection I didn’t use the company that did the original I used an online company I could have told them anything Asked the make and type of boiler U values for windows and doors I simply sent them the original quote showing each window u value I fitted all windows and doors myself I could have sent in any quote The water usage was done by them all the final Sap £105 24 hours after sending in the forms While I was truthful and scored 89 High B Without MVRH Solar panels where a planning condition We decided payback wasn’t worth it so didn’t bother If I had told them we had installed PV It would have put me in lower A
  4. Two I think
  5. I’ve a couple Collecting dust They do work But can tip Im not sure if HSE would allow them on site I bought two a few years back to fix multi boards on an underground car park Worked ok but the ground was flat and clear I’m 58 and can still lift a 15 mil board above my head and fix Two people can easily board ceiling's
  6. I’ve a couple Collecting dust They do work But can tip Im not sure if HSE would allow them on site
  7. Ps ceilings also
  8. Yes you should use moister resistant boards in all bathrooms regardless of weather they are being tiled or painted
  9. Your only option is to apply for retrospective pp All not lost though a friend of our built a very large wall around his property and was allowed to keep it with a couple of minor adjustments That was Two years ago Not far from you at Didsbury May even be the same Counsul as yours
  10. You will need a cavity tray above each A stepped lead flashing looks nice with smaller tiles or slates to Match the house roof I usually ply on top of the roof joists the a vapour barrier Then membrane and Baton
  11. Metal looks nice But not worth the money Can be noisy
  12. Stifling
  13. I used Cadmans Large company established over 100 years I put the membrane insulation and screeding down There was very little in it I couldn’t work out how they could be so cheap One guy turned up at 8am He said he had a slip membrane and perimeter foam in the van that would keep him going till the delivery arrived I came back at 230 pm he was just tidying up 158 m2 down on his own They charged me £200 to come back and commission it It worked out about 700 quid more than doing it myself Plus the 200
  14. Wow we NEVER Have our living space over 18 21 is hot
  15. We usually put a skim on the ceiling edge
  16. We just used lots of insulation Insulated board to outside walls and 600 mil of life insulation Even around Christmas time the bedrooms and bathrooms are 15 -16
  17. I would seriously considered if it is worth UFH the first and second floors We have UF ground floor Radiators on the first and have used the radiators since moving in 18 months ago Temperature seems consistent with the ground floor
  18. Just to help D&D Skim Labour £8 Float and Skim Bags £9.30 S&C £10.50 saving in material pays for manual handling
  19. I run a plastering company I dot and dabbed my build I would say 95% of my internal business Is D&D or metal frame 20 years ago it was the other way round Up and till recently we would wet plaster communal areas in schools and offices Many in projection plaster But now there is several types of high impact boards that will do a better job Wet plaster will take longer to dry out and cost more But some still want it We have recently competed a synagogue in North Manchester Using sand lime Its down to choice
  20. &830 m2 253m2 two story traditional Finished to a high standard
  21. Yes you should be able to claim the vat back as normal on the build How you came about the land shouldn’t effect your claim
  22. While the gap isn’t mandatory You do need to leave a minimum of 10-15 around the block work More than expansion its to stop the sound carrying from the floor to walls Even your spec builders have someone go round with a chisel cleaning bricklaying snots out of the gap Prior to Pre plaster inspection
  23. We had exactly the same So I increased the outside to 1650 which gives a 950 opening on the inside Architects use cad drawing so will add a one size fit all to the drawing Really easy to change no need to go back to planners
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