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If it had PP 12 years ago you shouldn’t have any problem now If anything planning rules have become more relaxed over the last 5 years Good luck

Brickie won’t want to powerfloat as it may mean him coming back later that evening Ive used a round hole tamper Helps level and brings it up to a nice finish Good enough to tile So should be ok for a garage finish But it would mean you going on it while it’s being laid nice sloppy mix like for footings

Due to planning restrictions I installed these sash windows Zero maintenance and they look in keeping with next doors timber sash

I friend has an insinkerator Tap 5 years no problems £300

That’s high for a 100m2 I was similar for 283m2 plus two detached garages Block and beam on the house slate roof sash windows While I did the roof slating windows myself The slates where 5 k windows 18 k Ground wasn’t good 50k just to get the foundations in and muck away It would be worth getting several quotes Looks like there a high labour charge in there

Great help Barney Thanks

House extension 1 2 3 story Will watertight include doors and windows Overall m2 Will make a difference to price Is the 1375 per sq ft Or m2

Perhaps some details

We’ve a quooker been in about 18 months Model pictured A couple of times recently about a week apart I’ve come home and found the illuminated ring around the tap flashing When I’ve switched it in boiling water mode there’s just slow warm water that quickly turns cold I press the reset on the tank and after about 20 minutes all works as normal While it’s still under warrantee Is there anything I can do Is it a sign the filter needs swapping

I’m not sure about your area We paid under 500 for for foundations tree calc etc for the house and garages Steels beam support and lintels Architect drew drainage in with plans

You will have to do a lot yourself to go sub £1000 m2 We came in at 830m2 On a good spec 283 m2 build So yes Doable Good luck

Nice big budget Should be plenty in there for anything unexpected

Nice plot Great views

Pretty much as you say Its worth placing the patches over the repair dry Draw round each with a pencil Then rough the area up with palm sander or a wire attachment on a batterie drill Primer adhesive top coat need to go past the patches 50 mil It’s also worth painting the back of the patch also before sticking it down hope this helps

I would try and find another Brickie If this is how he behaves you have had a lucky escape We have worked on four sites since this all began Mainly due to contractual agreement I have been told that no invoices will be paid for labour or materials til the end of May With many tradesmen on Furlough Hes seen an opportunity to make extra money

Ardex adhesive to stick the matting to the ply

There’s a powder that I’ve used that will get the water stains off very cheap and easy to use oxalic acid Brings it up like new

You can drop down to 2 mil 4 is better The Turkish and Chinese slats tend to have a camber So using a levelling system won’t help If you pay a bit more for laser cut Italian or even Spanish you will find these to be very flat Regardless of what you use you will need to back butter each tile with the smooth edge of your float

Any flexible no need to pay over £10 per bag I use tilemaster adhesive Don’t forget the matting

Pictured is one of our jobs that we are doing at the moment Five offices being converted into houses While there is cavity walls with insulation Like yours it’s not sufficient As Peter rightly pointed out an air gap gives you far better performance pictured 50 mill i stud 15 mil off the block work 50 mil insulation Then plaster boarded The couple of brackets seen are temporary and will leave the studs standing independent giving excellent acoustics also

Plus one with external We do both External is much better and quick

I’ve not heard of this I Use K tend Keep way from Webber and only use Stucco for thin coat render Both K and Stucco have a massive array of colours Great backup and are reasonably priced

Masonry paint ?

You can apply sand and cement to most surfaces Even plasterboard As long as you fix a stainless mesh to it I use quite a lot of the thin coat renders If there is movement any of the renders will crack Plenty of expansion joins help with the cracking

I do both We used to do mainly sand and cement years back My wife often points out a large house I did some 35 years ago No beads all wet edged looks as good as the day it was done Will the silicon last as long It should do The first time I used through coloured render was 30 years ago Cem Rend Before the advent of K rend We use a large amounted K Rend each year I think if you get someone reputable You shouldn’t have any issues A company is better than individuals that use it now and then