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You would be shocked at what I get for commercial tiling and have to pay someone to do it Then wait 60 days for payment

I run a plastering and tiling company For over 35 years A lot changed over the years We used to put a 70 mil screed down in the morning and tile it in the afternoon No drying out time there Regarding EJ Normally every 8 mtrs But doorways are a must

I wouldn’t worry We normally grout each section the following day or even the same day so it can protected from the heavy commercial traffic Nearly every floor we do is spects for Matting now The mil per day is rarely practical on commercial work Though I always get it in writing that the floor is suitable and cured Even if it isn’t I wouldn’t worry about a small amount of screed drying Regarding the heating I normally tell clients Give it a week Then start the heat at 18 and add 1 per day Even with matting you will need expansion joints in every doorway and break up large rooms with a EJ also Minimum 10 mil around skirtings Good luck for Christmas

The Architect that did our first build has just quoted me 1700 for working drawings and submissions Plus the Counsul fees and about the same for design

Monthly is fine Stage payments can lead to your job being a hospital job (fill in) With no one on site The 5% deposit suggests that he’s a small outfit so you may have to be flexible when it comes to payments Hes probably going to need more than one payment some months You will have to find a way around giving him money upfront

COST

Rather than something off the shelve Get as detailed quote as possible off your chosen builder Then sit down and go through every item with him Discus stage payments and approximate timescale When you are happy both of you sign it It’s a real balancing act between covering yourself and giving the impression that you may be hard work

If you are looking at cost Traditional will cost you far less than TF

The boxes are fixed directly to the wall

Good advice

I usually counter baton the trusses and floor joists with 70x25 mil sawn cut This sorts out the bumps that the joist hangers leave and give you a better fixing for the PB Also it helps to stop floor joists creaking

47 ?

I used insulated plasterboard on my external walls It’s quite uncommon to do this on a new build I’ve plastered thousands of new builds and haven’t been asked to do this As you say you can simply widen the cavity Sealing around the sockets is pretty much the same as normal I used 40 mil back boxes that left only PB showing on the inside of the box

They will tape all the trickle vents chimney fans etc

We had no other options 2450 ground floor 2500 first floor Still left us with just under 2.4 Hand I was dealt The Gypliner on the underside of the floor with the joists packed with insulation Finished with 30 mil of sound block is plenty for a residential home The properties we soundproofed to such a high standard where four story houses that had been built and stood for 12 years The banks had decided to convert them into flats selling at 250 k plus

We had no other options 2450 ground floor 2500 first floor Still left us with just under 2.4 Hand I was dealt

For the ceilings I’ve started using these as it out performs Res bar

I think if the builders attitude is as reasonable as yours He will sort it out quickly and as cheaply as possible Good luck

I normally use the tap on type of edge bead I buy by the box from BG But Travis Perkins should be able to order you some in

Voice of reason again Peter It would be madness to go near it the following day I would leave it to cure for at least a week

Could be worth looking at the garage outer door doors

Probably a bit of confusion on Botha sides If it’s not going to be a lot of money I would pay him to do it Rather than sour things at this stage