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Little bit different We purchased internal glass blinds in our south facing bifolds Only regrets are we didn’t buy more Much neater than all the others we have

Much as you can ?

I like to see 70 mil past the block leaving 35 after plastering

We are about 70 30 here Nearly always screed firs especially when wet plastered

I prefer screed first Save having to put the boards on bricks

Our daughter has purchased a Redrow home with PV They are the inset type which don’t look as bad Plus they are on the back of the house So can’t really be seen She expected her electricity bills to be less But in reality they about the same We were required by planning to fit PV But with Heritage insisting on sash windows the type of slate we used There seemed little point spoiling the look of the house So we didn’t fit them The next two we build we may not have much choice With quotes of 7-9k quoted last time It would have to be a case of buy cheap and self install Preferably on the back of the garage

I still haven’t worked out the point of PV On our first build the Sap predicted £200 annual saving Chatting to our Architect he’s saying perhaps we could get that upto £500 this time The figures don’t stack up Perhaps another three years without taking any flights will do our bit for the environment ?

When we started ours I asked planners the same question What constitutes a Cil breach His answer was quite clear Heavy machinery on site Though if we needed to do ground tests That was ok Questions can we cut about 20 large trees down YES Can we remove the slates and floor joist from a building we intend to demolish YES but no demolition till the cil is passed Can we put up site fencing YES But don’t create the vehicle acces at the front of the plot

Your correct The lime will plaster-size the mortar

Unfortunately you will We had to build sash widows into ours To match our two neighbors One has sash The other which is listed has Brown UPVC at the front and Aluminum old type Everest at the back fitted 30 plus years ago I pointed this out They simply said if he replaces his windows he will have to go back to timber sash Though they allowed us to use UPV grained sash So some hope there for you Or you could just go ahead like my neighbors father did

Definitely ?

Easy remedy would be to take the reveal off and replace it with a wider piece Then rub the edge Down with a sureform Same with the walls Let them run past 5 mil

Yeah it’s not rocket science But everything must be sealed Good practice to run a line of acoustic sealant around all ceiling angles also

It is and around and under windows and doors Get that right and you have no need to worry about airtightness I took this photo when I started plastering ours My trusted helper also Mixed every bag of plaster and 250 bags of render I’ve got her a battery mixer for our next build

I agree we were 2.2 Block and block Though I’ve little faith in air testers

Good luck Im sure you will find plenty on here to help you

All will use subcontractors Up to roof and individual trades will work out cheaper than main contractor But you will need to know what you are looking at As individual trades won’t follow drawings unless they have to

I was way out with my much away estimate of 500 tons Turned out to be 750 tons

It’s quite normal for Groundwork’s Its the only I’m unknown of your build If you pin someone to a fixed price They will think of a number and double it Get him to break the work down into stages and give you an estimate of the man hours and machine hire for each stage

Porcelain would be fine I wouldn’t rely on a capping to seal the parapet I fixed ply on the top of the parapet and returned the fiberglass over the top of the ply and the stone coping just became decretive If yours is more like a balcony with brickwork showing You can do the same with a 50 mil lap and trim

You can pull a copy of the deeds off the land registry site £3

Catnics are insulated So for a double skin wall your better with catnic Though I would go with a steel with a hit and miss plate for anything over 2mtr

Yep I did it on ours I first fixed plumbing in freezing weather and wrote the wrong zone on the valve Quick fix when my electrician friend asked me Is it absolutely impossible that you have labeled them wrong

It’s a gypliner system with a clip bracket I will see if I’ve a box knocking about and give you the code

I’ve only used Hardy and found them easy to use and cut with a guillotine mans very realistic looking also