Super_Paulie

im onto door linings now and i took advice from someone on here, i forget who now, but i got one of the doors and built the linings around it, which allowed me to get exactly 2mm clearance all round. Then i simply removed the door to attach after plastering. Long winded but i know the door will fit bang in the lining when the time comes.

Sonoff do one if you are into home automation. Think it's ZigBee so you can just create any routine or schedule you like.

I've tried to do that and it appears to all be gone. I think the fumes may have worked their way into the block and I'll be damned if I'm removing an entire wall, decorated and everything. What a mess, I'm proper sick as it should have been so easy. Might leave the board off for a week, see the odour subsides a bit. The missus can't smell it but I can 😞

Wasn't sure on what section to add this, so apologies. Right, bit of a situation. I went to attach my oak window board to a plasterboarded/block internal reveal. My plan was to attach screws to the under side of the board and drill corresponding holes in the block, fill with resin (R-KemII) and then foam the base and sit it in. This was to attempt to avoid the board cupping. However... Unbeknownst to me the resin didn't mix in the tube as it was meant to, I guess the hardener/catalyst bag didn't puncture so what happened was the the holes in the block got filled with un-cured/un-curable resin. I didn't realise this at the time as obviously I was working against the clock to get the board down. A week later, it was still stinking of resin so I investigated and discovered the above. I was able to remove the board easily with a 2x1 and a car jack. I cut out the plasterboard/insulation sections around the holes and extracted as much resin as I could but the odour still lingers, possibly via the plasterboard cill that was underneath the board or the oak itself. Any suggestions on what to do here? Id imagine it's quite a unique situation... Paint over the cill with oil based paint? Remove the emulsion and take it back to plaster? I brushed white vinegar on the areas which helped slightly. Just need the house to not be absolutely lifting, that would be nice.

how do these work then? ive got 5 doors i need to switch out this summer after the building settled on the beams and threw the linings out.

has anyone considered that the power was diverted to Blue Origin to send Katy Perry into space for 5 minutes?

In fairness, I never use them. The schedule keeps the underfloor running and the house is always 20 at night and 22 in the day, never changes. Worked great when I was running rads though. I only have the nests because I like the look of them and they double up as a clock... Surprised no one has worked out how to hack the firmware yet so they can be used for other things. Turn the ring to dim the smart lights or something. I mean you can still do that with routines but the temperature shown on screen would be irrelevant to the situation.

Nest has been effectively ruined since it was taken over by Google. Thankfully I have the 3rd gen units but they still cant be fully controlled by Google home, you have to use the nest app. It's like they've been forgotten about.

Too hot for tops, but the thickest bell bottom jeans. The 80s just crept into the 90s.

Same. Looked at the seconds & co option and there were too many little things like delivery criteria, sizing "alternatives" etc. I just thought sod it and bought exactly what I needed. Each to their own I guess. I bought from Pinks in the end, they essentially just have it delivered from a local supplier they have a deal with as it had Newcastle on the delivery note.

2 layers for me. Cutting 50mm compared to 120mm was an absolute dream. Meant I could double secure for air tightness as well as I did that between the layers.

The only function I would expect from it is a notification to our phones. You can set it so that a notification will be sent based on the relay trigger on a 240v input on the switch side. Other than that it serves no other function and isn't anything safety critical. Id imagine the heat alarm would sound (and thus notify) before the electrics tripped but again it's more of an experiment than safety critical. Put it this way, if the house is going to burn down it will whether I get a notification or not. But if I do I'd be given maybe a few minutes extra to phone a sibling to investigate/phone the fire brigade.

I'm not in a position to test but I assume it puts out 9v on "interconnect" when the alarm triggers so you could put a relay on that which trips the 240 smart relay, thus providing the smart/digital trigger.

It is actually a heat alarm I have down there to be fair. I've got a smart relay in every light switch with triggers from doorbell, automatic velux, Google home etc, just seemed like it might be interesting to do. Add it to the rainy day pile when I'm bored. Small relay that trips via the interconnect which in turn trips the smart relay and a routine to send me a notification. Meh, it'll never happen.

It's more to note that the missus is burning the dinner...

Having done the job now, did you ever go with what you suggested Mike? For no other reason other than "just coz" I was wondering if I could rig a smart relay to the system so I get the notification when the relay switches. I guess this would be dependant on how the interconnect works, I'd imagine it puts a live on that line when triggered, but I doubt it would be 240v. All fairly pointless, but just a thought.

My "plant room" is under the stairs and it's damn toasty where everything converges. Basically it has UFH as a by-product of such.

Nope. I did initially design it with a condensation collar I think they are called in the system which just sits in line. Can't recall why I didn't go with it in the end, think I was trying to evacuate the trap to the eaves, but as the run is insulated and so short the 10 minute over-run seems to deal with it. Been in over 2 years now and shows no ill effects, and I enjoy a good long 20 minute shower every evening. I'll likely revisit the whole thing when I pull out the bathroom to make it all a bit more serviceable, I was in a rush for the install as the builders had made my bathroom "windowless" for a short time with the wraparound extension.

I did. Used rubber I found at work but it's nothing out of the ordinary, just cut it down to go in each corner. My initial plan was to suspend the whole thing on bungee cords from the rafters but I thought I'd just try it as it was and it was totally fine so I didn't bother.

i did exactly this. Was tricky to get the tubing correct as the vent was "too close" to the motor but with some fancy angles it was pretty straightforward. I insulated by wrapping with 25 or 50mm and then aluminium tape all round to stop it from falling away. ps, in the first photo i used duct tape which was useless and fell off half an hour later. Use aluminum tape all round is my advice. really? the only noise i hear is the sound of the air getting sucked up, the fan itself is so quiet you cant hear it running from any other room but the loft. Thats why i use the run-on timer as people just kept forgetting to turn it off and it would run all night, non the wiser.

nope, renovation is not that grand. Need to vent outside to please BC in this instance.

out of interest Nick, why non-silicone? im about to put a vent in for my downdraft hob this summer so will be in a similar situation.

yeah its wool in the cavity. I could have filled between the steels with wool but i had PIR so just used that and with wool on top/around it and foamed it in. I think i used a 15mm PIR underneath the beam to bring it flush to the bottom of the joists. You may be right. I was just following the guidance of my BCO, see below extract. Im in the North East of England if that has any bearing: Afternoon Paul, Given that the subject beam will be set above the ceiling level, without any down stands, I can confirm that a standard single 12.5mm plaster board would be deemed satisfactory in terms of providing the required fire protection. As such, you can use either approach of an additional strip of plaster board or placement of insulation. Regards.

It's a twinned steel which I insulated between with PIR. The timber is joists on the inside and I guess a wall plate on the outer. Steels support the cavity wall above, pitched roof to the front, room to the rear.

For what it's worth, my BC said I can just fly over my beam with standard plasterboard because it's within the ceiling void. Nothing else required for him to give it the old ok.