Super_Paulie

not too dissimilar to my own efforts. 50mm PIR between the battens, 120mm on top of the battens, 30mm pug. Absolutely no problem getting the house to 23 if i want it, but i just set the entire downstairs to be 21 during the day with a 20 night-time setback, house is always just nice and warm. The smaller front room is north facing, has a non-insulated bay window and a carpet, all of this means that room is no where near as comfortable as the extension 3 times the size of it. Carpet will be changed for low tog (already got the thermalstream underlay), its just whacked down until the rest of the house is done as its a walkway from my workshop (bedroom) to the new extension. It does short cycle when only the small loop is open, but im still to add more volume to the system (already have a 50l tank in the loft) in the bathroom and a hall rad which will help a tad, im not worried by it. The whole thing was a real laborious job but i just couldnt trust a fitter (in my price range) to do the job to the standards id have liked. And as for my new triple panel uber pricey radiators... never used.

35mm for me, consistency around all the new windows meant various depth reveal boards, 9mm, 12.5mm and 6mm Wedi-board to achieve it.

i was worried about the chemicals leeching into the plasterboard but it never happened and i am currently still alive so the air quality must be ok.

my local timber place only seems to stock battens and most timbers that are treated these days. Guess it'll last forever indoors.

i mean, wasnt/isnt the obvious answer to just cut a few boards if you want them to match up? probably why there werent any answers as its kinda self explanatory...

Id be tempted to remove a few rows of tiles to check it out from above. It's a shame they didn't do the insulation as good as they should as it looks a decent job otherwise. This is why I have trust issues with trades... I did ask my own insulation and foamed and taped absolutely everything as belt and braces, my roof level PIR is angled to meet the insulation in the cavity which I think you may be missing? Id get some of those tiles off to check it out as my place is never cold even though it's a 1930s.

yeah you can do them to the height of the existing. My BC officer said this in December 2023: "You are correct that the regulations, for new dwellings, would be for sockets to be placed at the height of 450mm. Given that you are replicating the existing arrangements, I would have no objections." For what its worth i did mine lower to match existing but in hindsight i wish i made them higher.

Who knows, id imagine so but I have no way to measure such a thing. I insulated the upright more to stop condensation behind the plasterboard. All I know is the house is 23° and the beam is warm to touch even though outside is -2°.

No idea how long it would have held up for, obviously I stopped after like 90 seconds as I think my point was proved. Was interesting though and as the beer had been removed from the box I simply had to drink it.

10mm PROCTOR Spacetherm® Silica Aerogel STRIPS - 2400mm x 280mm £35 Yeah i got my calculation of how much it needed and just kept going until the tin was empty, which was almost bang-on 3 coats. Each coat took around 6hrs to put on... Video incoming. Not a huge amount but it must have turned into something else when it burnt as it didnt even leave a mark on the inside of a very thin beer can box. No beer was harmed during the making of this video. Setting fire to things

probably sod all difference, but im always willing to try new tech and it seems to do the job i want it to.

i used Envirograf in the end, after Rawlins said i couldnt apply the paint myself. Jason at Enviro was extremely helpful all round, did the calculation for me, said i could paint it DIY and when i asked about the topcoat he said, and i quote "If you are going to use your own top coat Paul we advise doing a small test area first to ensure the top coat and intumescent is compatible." I did the test and it was fine so cracked on. For what its worth the topcoat I used ended up the same cost as a tin of paint from Enviro. Once done i got the certificate, gave that to BC with photos of the job and it was signed off. This was about 3 weeks ago and the whole painting process is something im trying to forget, but may never do so... I tested the intumescent on a carboard box with a blowtorch, this stuff actually works.

yeah, ground it clean, primed it, intumescent painted it and then eggshell over the top. Probably one of the most long-winded jobs ive ever done in my life as its over 8m long and exposed on 3 sides. Here is a pic of it after the intumescent.

i had something similar, i think. I used a strip of 10mm aerogel and then boarded over the lot, that section of wall isnt any colder than any other so i guess it worked. I did notice also that once i had painted the main beam with intumescent paint its no longer cold to the touch, no matter what the temperature outside so i guess that has some thermal properties also.

welcome. I am in the process of doing my own wrap-around 1930s semi. Good luck i say!

i just tee'd into a leg to the last rad under the floor and passed it through the cavity wall in a sleeve with a draincock on the end right over a drain. Only used it once but i was glad i did it, thats for sure.

guy who used to live over the road from me built a detached garage and had 2 Cosworths in it. Always on YouTube tinkering with them, dont see them very often these days.

50mm gap was required up here in the North East. Could always increase the rafter size with battens and install rigid PIR which has twice the U value? or install PIR anyways, pretty simple to do.

yeah ive done it and added UFH and as far as i can tell its fine. Significantly warmer than without it but it was backbreaking/soul destroying work, even putting the tape on took days and days. Thankfully once in a lifetime. Insulation saw in the jigsaw, PIR, Illbruck FM330 foam, aluminuim tape, plenty of painkillers.

I've had to pop out this evening but I like what you've got there, I'll set up a schedule on my stat and try that out. I've also increased my mixer to 50 as I've still got room to play with on floor temp and I've got a boiler flow temp of 57. This is all higher than I had hoped but needs must if that's what I've got to do.

Thanks for that that. That is how i would like to go really due to my boiler modulation being shitty, heat that thing up, let it radiate for long periods, thats what i did all winter really. Do you have any suggestions for me John based on the above? I havent had any heating requirement for 17hrs now but its within a degree of the stat calling as we speak. My flow of 57, mixer of 45, bypass rad open 1/4 keeps my return within the range for condensing but with a decaying cycle time ultimately ending the evening on a 8minute cycle.

i understand this. No matter what i set that flow to the floor will eventually fill up, quicker or slower based on flow temp, and at that point im back to square one. Just like when i tried it low and low and then hot and fast, my usage was nigh-on identical. So no matter what i do to this my efficiency is going to be the same, its about finding the point where im condensing for longer i suppose to try and win back a few pennies and not ruin the boiler through super-low cycles?

I can do that tonight when i get back in, no problem. When i first started testing last night, the system had been on for a few hours that the cycle time had a decay after every cycle, down from 15 minutes when i started to around 8 by time the system went off. Should i be taking my readings once the system is up to temperature but still calling, say after an hour of running? Also the flow and return temps, should i take them at the boiler, so the flow reading on the screen and the return reading from my probe (after the buffer)? I was under the impression after the boiler has stopped firing the screen will then be showing the return temp rather than the flow as there is no flow. Could be wrong on that. I have made a daft spreadsheet table to record what i think might help out. Thanks loads you guys. boilerTemps.xlsx

Ok I've made that adjustment. I'm up to temperature now so I can't really get any numbers but hopefully I'm heading in the right direction. I did see that my cycle times were getting smaller with every cycle, my last cycle time I recorded this evening was quite short, 57 boiler, 45 mixer, 8 minute cycle.

Ha ha, my understanding gets worse 😆. I thought that by opening it up it would emit more heat and thus bring down the return temp. Think I'm beyond saving at this point. I'll knock that lock down now 👍