Super_Paulie

I have my bathroom towel rad as the bypass radiator for my UFH. I loop the return from this rad up and down in an UFH fashion before it leaves the room and back to the boiler. I'm looking to get a radiator that also heats up with electric for the months I don't use the underfloor, best of both worlds.

Could knock the cement base off and plasterboard it? Or just cover any join with scrim and get spreadin, seems relatively straightforward.

Illbruck FM330 foam was the game-changer for me.

i mean, from the description and picture it looks like it might be supporting a rolling pin and a jar of pizza base.

I did. For the extra time it takes at least id know i did all that i could.

Can do what you like really, all my isolators are in a cupboard. Think there is an unofficial recommendation of having the oven isolator within 2m but it's not a reg.

just used those screws last night for a radiator batten into block work and they are my go-to for most medium to heavy jobs to be fair. Drill hole, clean it out, drive it in. Works every time.

yeah, bent flimsy plastic and an inch of polystyrene doesnt instill confidence.

just had the same situation this week. I was too impatient to wait for a delivery of insulated tile backer and my car cant carry sheet material (2 seater) so i just did what Oz suggested above. Foamed and taped the cavity closer then a full bed of foam and 12.5mm board to give me the clearance over the brackets. My thoughts that the full bed of foam will provide some thermal break or insulation may or may not be correct. I left the reveals long and then used insulation board on the walls to bang up to them then cut them down to flush. For what its worth i think the cavity closers are sh*te, or at least the way my builder installed them maybe is. Always "gappy" like your image, which requires me to foam and tape them all down and brace them until they go somewhere near straight.

I'm part way/miles away from finishing my side and rear extension on my 1930s place, good luck to ya!

These bad boys got the beam cleaned in an afternoon. Used the purple type and it lasted pretty much the entire job, so I've got 4 spare... It was brutal though, looked like I'd been working down a coal mine afterwards.

Easy to control with a gun. Around the box and then into the open grommet, but like I say I get no drafts anyways, I just love using that FM330, it's the absolute shiz.

It's not getting boxed in, otherwise I would have done it!

Not sure which sub forum for this, so apologies. I need to get this beam prepped before I get my intumescent on. It's not oxide coated, seems just raw steel and as such it's flakey with surface rust, probably sat in the fabrication yard for god knows how long. Which will be the least painful way of getting this ready to take a coat of the thick intumescent? Detail sander with mesh pad? Wire wool and a few stiff drinks? It's 8m and both sides and underneath need going at. Any experienced heads on this with any tips that would be excellent.

To put this to bed, BC said they are happy with standard plasterboard and skim over this vertical and I went with a strip of 10mm aerogel to reduce the cold bridge from the steel.

i did a quick final box last night as i missed a AV box when i did them all. SDS drill with 30 or 40mm flat bit went through block like butter, just guide the bit by grasping onto it while it does its thing. I stitch drilled my brick as its solid, but on block just go straight in with the SDS chisel, takes like 5 minutes a box or something.

i personally went round the sockets with Illbruck FM330 foam, didnt seem to do any harm but i dont get any drafts anyways as im pretty sealed up. Could use foil tape over the screw heads if you are that bothered. Im not sure what you mean about the light sockets, you mean you are not going to put physical light switches in at all and just use smart full stop? im not sure thats wise if so, what if the smart hub goes down, you'd be goosed. Loop at switch is a good idea though.

i was looking at these, but more the downlight ones. At £2 a pop seems "ok" but in the end i just thought i was spending on stuff for the sake of it so didnt bother. If i was skimming myself id have got them, but id imagine a plasterer wouldnt be bothered either way.

yes the main beam is to be protected with the appropriate paint. Anyways, its the thermal element i was really looking for advice for on that upright beam. I think there are no options that suit my application other than aerogel, so thats what i'll go for i think.

Hopefully his is a bit clearer. Other than aerogel i guess my options are limited, but as the steel is within the inner leaf, ie insulation behind it in the cavity, then cold bridge will hopefully be minimal.

Yeah, smiley protection covers 😆. I stitched them out with an SDS and used the SDS chisel to take them back to depth. I mortared the boxes in to keep them tidy, deep boxes all round.

Why couldn't I just use plasterboard adhesive foam with additional mechanical fixings, a fire rated plasterboard and just continue along the wall? Id just use a fire rated board where it passes over the steel and normal boards elsewhere, I guess a full fire board would give me 450mm either side of the post that would also be fire protected. It's the vertical, tubular post we are talking about here, not sure if you're thinking about the horizontal beam which is to be left exposed and painted with intumescent.

I can't use plasterboard foam on the walls, how come? I was going to just foam on and throw in a few mechanical fixings. I've already done all the internal walls as such. Id imagine the entire house would fall down if the beam failed seeing as it supports the main beam 😆

I was going to fasten directly with foam, to stop a bridge an adhesive dab would bring. I don't have room for battens unfortunately. The vertical beam is supporting the main beam which supports the cavity wall above. I would just use fireboard over the vertical, no biggy. It's the cold bridge I'm looking into, but maybe with insulation in the cavity behind the vertical steel it won't be an issue?

Inspector never suggested fire protection on this upright as far as I'm aware.