Super_Paulie

hi gang. Im starting the work on my kitchen island this week, more specifically the downdraft hob. As my floor is suspended, (UFH in biscuit on 170mm PIR) i have left an opening where the hob is to go so i can bring the ducting up into the cabinet from the outside wall. Its a 2m straight run from the double airbrick so i can simply pass a 2m 220x90 duct through from outside, my joists go in the right direction, no biggy. But it just dawned on me that this duct should be insulated as it will be pulling hot air down into the cold void below the insulation. Am i overthinking this or should i be looking to insulate the rectangular duct? if its at a slight dowanward angle away from the entry point under the cabinet then would it matter that there is condensation? - should i insulate the ducting somehow? https://domusventilation.co.uk/catalog_products/megaduct-220x90-insulation-1m/ - should i be putting a shutter or butterfly inline somewhere to stop backdraft into my warm house? Be interested in what other people have done here.

it really seems like its complicating matters and losing space for no real gain. It'll work for sure, but id prefer the space not be lost behind a cabinet and the socket in a neighbouring unit, its pretty standard stuff. Good luck to ya.

i took guidance from @Nickfromwales so i dunno, any thoughts Nick? i assume when the machine discharges its airtight in the standpipe so has to push that air out. Only noticed it when its on the drying cycle, cant confirm it does the same on the washing cycle so im guessing its pushing hot air through the waste. Can easily remove the spigot and just push the hose in, but id like to understand. When it exists the cabinet it goes directly into the stack.

i couldnt get a plug behind my machines unless they are way down at floor level, my machines are like 5mm from the wall when pushed home.

as you have the 2 appliances side-by-side you are going to still have to remove the hoses if you need to pull one out, so its not a huge difference to have to pull the plug out as well as the hoses. Id personally have the 2 single sockets under the sink. If you are worried about pulling the plugs for whatever reason then cut the plugs off and hard-wire to 2x FCU's and then all you have to pull through will be a skinny cable. As for the plumbing i went a standpipe with a sealed top per appliance. Seems to work just as well as an open top one to be fair but there are no chances of any leaks from an overflow. I have noticed it makes an "air bomb" noise when emptying into the trap, but im happy with it. If this is a utility room then id probably just put both hoses into spigots from the sink and close the door. Im open-plan, so need it quiet.

id swap it for anything. 3 years in and im goosed.

I've got a situation where I need to add a socket for a warming drawer half way up a tall unit. My original ring final wiring into the neighbouring "normal height" cabinet is only long enough to go into a single low socket, so I'd have to spur from this. However... The cabinet plumbing now doesn't allow me to get a socket in there at all, so my question is: Would you add a Wago/Wago box underneath the plinth to keep the ring intact and spur from this up to the warming drawer? I assume this is more legit then having a daft socket underneath the cabinets.

Sod it, everything else is new in here so what's another 500 notes. Cheers guys, unplugged and ready to go to dishy heaven.

Installing my kitchen today, noticed a smell of "heat". Traced it to the dishwasher (7 yeah old) plug, which was red hot and pliable. Opened it up and the fuse holder was melted. So I cut the plug off, new one on, tried again. Red hot again. Opened up the socket, nothing to see, looked normal. Ran it again from a different socket, red hot again. Never noticed it before, do these just run hot, seems abnormal. Should I just bite the bullet and bin it off, wasn't expensive. Just took delivery today of all my Neff ovens, they were expensive 🤦🏻‍♂️

I'm actually a 3D print professional at the uni 😆. It's easier to pay £5 for 2 from Screwfix

Sorted. Not 100% happy with it but needs must as I just didn't have the legs on the cables or any way to move the waste, both put in 2 years ago in "preparation"... I don't have shares in Pipesnug, but I think they are great as a grommet to tidy up edges when going through a cabinet. Second image for context, just needs the oak effect back installed.

PIR for me, foamed and aluminium tape all round, supported on full length battens screwed to the joists. I have UFH in mix on top but the floor is never cold at any time, on or off. Like above I tapered the board at the air bricks if I needed to.

That's what I'll do. Photo incoming to close the project off. 👍🏻

ive put a single plug on the ring in the neighboring unit. Single socket so nothing else can be plugged in the other side, its solely for that individual appliance. I defo wouldnt use a double socket for 2 thirsty devices at the same time. You could split the ring where it is and add in a cable between the new 2 single sockets. If the cable isnt long enough then you could use an unswitched socket directly behind the appliance and that switch running from an isolator elsewhere convenient. Thats what i was going to do, but turns out the cupboard next door was always applicable for me.

bringing the thread back on track, any preferred options on this conundrum?

yeah, tis. Its free-floating at the moment as there is nothing to stop it going up and down within the talon clips as its not connected to the incoming feed underneath yet 😁

it goes off to the fridge freezer. That was just a place holder, its actually a blue pipe now, but its the 8mm going through the 10mm id already ran. Fridge 3/4 to 8mm reducer doesnt thread on the check valve straight either, seems to follow the pitch of the thread but its water tight.

rather than start up another thread, i'll add to this. Its washing machine time, and as per another complicated situation to deal with. The waste comes directly out of the stud into the back of the cabinet, i was going to set up my standpipe/plumbing in there, this cant be moved as its all done. To the left was just going to be a filler end panel alongside the side of the washing machine but last minute i changed things around and now its a 120mm deep "cupboard". It would make sense to house the plumbing in there instead, but that means id have to come in the back of the neighboring cabinet and then pass through into the 120mm cupboard, which means it would have the elbow in the main cabinet and likely look totally sh1t3. Whats the opinions, should i just have that elbow in the neighboring cabinet and put a carcass coloured boxing in around it (removable) or just go with plan A and have the standpipe in the actual cupboard. Images attached for context, (no backing panel on the slim cupboard just now).

It's rusty, but I'd imagine that beam will still be doing it's job when all on here have departed this realm.

They are black talon pipe collars, 2x15mm and a 10mm for the fridge feed. Just needed to take a slice off them to fit against the back of the cabinet. Pretty happy with it, and spent far too much time on it obviously.

Cheers guys, I've finished the job apart from cutting in the shelf. Bottle trap with separate stand pipe for the dishwasher and turns out I could also guide the 8mm fridge feed down through the 10mm pipe I already had in place which meant I could bring the 8mm feed straight into the cabinet manifold. Just need a few check valves for the tap flexi's. Cheers for all the input, onwards and upwards.

Id deffo try to have the cut edge the one that you dont see when opening the door, so hinge side, how often do you see that edge, almost never. I applied the heat edging before and it worked pretty good to be fair. My new doors are painted so it's stressful cutting the fillers, I just use a track saw with a 40t blade and then touch up paint along the raw edge if needed.

Pretty straightforward, just need to cut the standpipe to size. I ordered the "upgrade" you mentioned in a previous discussion which is compression elbow and a spigot for the top of the standpipe but the elbow has that flange inside and it won't go into the top so I assume I need a compression elbow-reducer to fit it. Other than that, I'm happy so far, cheers Nick. Edit. Actually just checked and the Floplast compression elbow doesn't have that internal flange like the McAlpine does.

are you saying like the attached @Nickfromwales, single check valves above the isolators with the flexi straight to them? i was really wanting to use these nice full bore Peglers for my isolation as the standard ones ive had the handle sheer off before with undesirable results, plus the Peglers look the nuts. In the attached i have one of those single check/washing machine valves you linked to, but i guess i could use a pegler and a single check here as well like the taps? As for the fridge, i already have a 5m 10mm pipe in place, which reduces to 8mm at the fridge so there is not a lot i can do about that as it is all under the floor already.

i was trying to keep everything over to the left hand side to keep the majority of the unit free of pipes. Probably a waste of time to be fair and like you say its just introducing more joints. The pipes coming in from underneath can be anywhere in the unit so im not restricted in that sense.