Super_Paulie

Guess I'll be cutting my shelf around a dirty great stand pipe but I'd prefer that to the gurgle I've lived with the past 2 decades.

I'm with you. Hard to visualise while enjoying the tones of Faithless at isle of white. Waste comes in, immediately a tee, one goes to a standpipe and the other to the bottle trap. Done plenty of pipework in my time but always used a combination trap. But now I'm open open living, this is what I need to be doing. Cheers Nick, as helpful as ever beyond the call of duty.

So would this suffice? Id be happier if I didn't need that upstand under there, more room in the cupboard for my dangerous chemicals. However I could do it if I were to sacrifice the shelf.

Interesting. So it's a separate trap basically. I'll see if I can fit that in, it's just a 600 unit with the exit far left maybe 300 up, sink dead center. Sounds like I need to play with my pipe tomorrow.

In my instance it's a dishwasher. I have a waste coming out directly from the wall so I have effectively got a straight pipe coming into the unit in the rear, back to front. Is the attached very crude image what you would suggest @Nickfromwales, with joining pipes obviously. Instead of the spigot I could make an upstand I guess but I wouldn't need that additional trap would I? Edit. Thinking about it this would syphon all the water from the trap wouldn't it as there is no air admittance.

Are you saying a bottle trap under the kitchen sink, with I guess a spigot before it for the dishwasher/washing machine? I'll be plumbing up this week and I will indeed stand united if I can. I'm partial to a nice but of pipe action, so I'm hoping to not do a lash up.

Yeah I'm gonna scrap the idea. Seems like something I'll end up having to maintain for the rest of my life. Cheers for the opinions friends 👍🏻

Cheers Nick, point understood from the resident expert. 👍🏻

Has anyone used or got experience of in-cabinet lighting? As I'm fitting the kitchen it seems like it might be an interesting project where an led activates from a small switch that flips when the door opens. Love to hear if anyone has done the above and how they did it. Off the top of my head a fused spur to the driver into say a wago box which then goes to every cabinet with a small gauge cable. A normally closed switch between the driver and the LED.

agree with that. My Google doorbell was/is battery, lasted about 2 weeks. "No problem" the missus said, just charge it. Easy for her to say, but it was me having to remove it every fortnight for the next 10+ years and that sounded hideous so i sent cables to it before plastering, job done.

do you have any images of how you do it Nick, any that you are proud of showing off? kitchen arrives this week so i need to plumb up and i was going to use a combination trap but if i can avoid it I will do.

Id just draw my line on and rip that without a fence but yeah you could make a fence or get a track.

Ah, depth, now I'm with ya. Certainly cut that with a circular or track saw. Even a belt sander if you're careful enough. The track saw lets you plunge so that would work best now you're in-situ.

you plasterboard right up to the lining, bridging the gap? i filled the gaps with foam once id shimmed the linings and then took the plasterboard bang up to the lining.

missed this notification, apologies. What i do is: lay the door down on a sheet of PIR or something similar to protect it lay out the header and the the jams/uprights around it, all my jams are the correct height from the off so thats not a concern. Make sure any bowing wood has the bow pointing inwards towards the door Use 2mm plastic shims on the header/door top and immediate sides. Mark off and route out the rebate if its out. Glue and screw in, this gives you the exact 2mm gap either side at the top put the frame into the rough opening, as it is the correct height already, i use a laser and secure one of the jams in the rough opening with packers so i know its bang on put the actual door into the opening, shim off the deck until you get the 2mm gap at the top and shuffle it across to the secured jam and pack that out with 2mm as well. Can use a batten to stop the door falling or have a helper secure the header shim out the far side with 2mm packers and record how deep the shims are at each location. Remove the door screw in the far jam with the shims recorded above works for me, no doubt it is not the best way to do it and you do need the door to do the above. I guess you could just do it by measurements but i like to see the actual door in there so i know its going to be close.

I used what is called "method 100” and "101" for my cables between floors.

nearly at the 3rd for me. Kitchen arrives next week...

there's no way id be leaving a load of knackered plaster between my floors or walls. Just spent the last few years cleaning all that crap out. Technically i see the positives for it in sound reduction, but id go for a real product, i used acoustic wool all round.

im onto door linings now and i took advice from someone on here, i forget who now, but i got one of the doors and built the linings around it, which allowed me to get exactly 2mm clearance all round. Then i simply removed the door to attach after plastering. Long winded but i know the door will fit bang in the lining when the time comes.

Sonoff do one if you are into home automation. Think it's ZigBee so you can just create any routine or schedule you like.

I've tried to do that and it appears to all be gone. I think the fumes may have worked their way into the block and I'll be damned if I'm removing an entire wall, decorated and everything. What a mess, I'm proper sick as it should have been so easy. Might leave the board off for a week, see the odour subsides a bit. The missus can't smell it but I can 😞

Wasn't sure on what section to add this, so apologies. Right, bit of a situation. I went to attach my oak window board to a plasterboarded/block internal reveal. My plan was to attach screws to the under side of the board and drill corresponding holes in the block, fill with resin (R-KemII) and then foam the base and sit it in. This was to attempt to avoid the board cupping. However... Unbeknownst to me the resin didn't mix in the tube as it was meant to, I guess the hardener/catalyst bag didn't puncture so what happened was the the holes in the block got filled with un-cured/un-curable resin. I didn't realise this at the time as obviously I was working against the clock to get the board down. A week later, it was still stinking of resin so I investigated and discovered the above. I was able to remove the board easily with a 2x1 and a car jack. I cut out the plasterboard/insulation sections around the holes and extracted as much resin as I could but the odour still lingers, possibly via the plasterboard cill that was underneath the board or the oak itself. Any suggestions on what to do here? Id imagine it's quite a unique situation... Paint over the cill with oil based paint? Remove the emulsion and take it back to plaster? I brushed white vinegar on the areas which helped slightly. Just need the house to not be absolutely lifting, that would be nice.

how do these work then? ive got 5 doors i need to switch out this summer after the building settled on the beams and threw the linings out.

has anyone considered that the power was diverted to Blue Origin to send Katy Perry into space for 5 minutes?

In fairness, I never use them. The schedule keeps the underfloor running and the house is always 20 at night and 22 in the day, never changes. Worked great when I was running rads though. I only have the nests because I like the look of them and they double up as a clock... Surprised no one has worked out how to hack the firmware yet so they can be used for other things. Turn the ring to dim the smart lights or something. I mean you can still do that with routines but the temperature shown on screen would be irrelevant to the situation.