Pete

Don't they need to be round!!

We are having this dilemma at the moment. I think a lot depends on what type of property it is, as if it is an older looking house then a focal point like a fire is probably a must. Our build is very contemporary and we think we could get away without a fire if we decide not to have one. Just Google or use Pinterest to look at what people have done, it really is a great source foe ideas.

Hi @PeterW, what do you mean restricted to 15mm at the stop cock end? I have 32mm from the main, through the water meter, i know it is 32mm as I bought the box with the 32mm built in connections and then it goes into the house and reduces to 22mm at the stop cock.

We saved £1500 on buying and fitting two Hormann doors over what the fitted price was.

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As always a really interesting read. How did the plasterers do the overhang for the led lights? I can see what looks like ply going up, then plasterboard and then a corner bead. Are there two corner beads to cover the depth of the combined ply and p/board or something different as I cannot make out from the photographs? Thanks

Mr Hagen by any chance?

Solar block glasss with SKN coating and IBE light, that is as much as I know.

Hi Peter, what is the thing at the top of the stack of unions please? ( The bit with the little hole in it!)

We had the solar coating put on our Internorm windows which is very good at reducing solar gain. They do numerous types of different coatings depending on what you want to achieve. I think the best one really reduces the light coming in the window though. I know how good they are as most of you will know the problems we have had with our Internorm installation, one of the issues was we had a glazed unit put in the wrong way round and the difference in temp between the this unit and the adjacent unit was at least 10 degrees but it could have been higher as I did not sit around and monitor it all the time!

Been quite a bit of discussion about plumbing layouts and using manifolds recently and on the back of this I need to run four 10mm pipes to two bathrooms to feed the toilet and basins. The distances involved are approx 15m and 21m to each bathroom , one bathroom will be used by our son when home from uni and then hopefully he will be moving out? and the other will be for guests. I am not overly bothered about the toilet pipes but is the distance for the 10mm pipes to the basins overly long or will people just have to be patient? TIA

I for one will be interested to see how much it is costing you to run the Willis heaters.

Fitting my vent terminals for my Mvhr supply and extract valves and I know a few on here have used BPC for the ducting etc. When cutting the plenums down to size, the bit that sticks through the plasterboard that the ceiling valve pushes into, have people left them to protrude a little bit lower than the plasterboard? It is just when I looked at how the valve attaches to the plastic tube it needs to compress a foam gasket and I assume for this to work properly it would need the tube to be left longer than the flat surface of the p/board to make a snug fit? TIA

Thanks Jeremy. So I take it where you do have the motion sensor you have no wall switches at all?

Just trying to sort light switch locations and if we decide to have motion sensors in d/s toilet and long corridor with three rooms off it do I still need light switches adjacent to rooms as back up or can I do away with them completely? TIA

We would like shadow gaps at the bottom of our walls. We have not decided yet whether to just have a shadow gap directly above the porcelain floor or fit a small square MDF skirting with shadow gap between this and the plasterboard. If we decide to use s/board then this will all sit flush with one another and not the usual way of putting the skirting board on top of the plasterboard (yes I know it is a lot of extra work but we think it will suit our build and just to add we will continue the s/gap around the doors so will not be having architrave either). Problem I am trying to solve is how to go about it as the usual way of doing things is to add skirting to the p/board when it has been skimmed but we cannot do it that way if we want s/gaps. SO one way is to p/board the ceilings and top half of the wall so I can plaster the ceiling and then do the floor tiling so I can then fit the lower p/board and s/gap trim and then plaster the walls. OR do I fit all the plasterboard and shadow gap trims, plaster and then lay floor tiling which will be a lot more intricate and as the tiles are 1200mm x 1200mm I do not want to lifting to get the edges absolutely perfect to the skirting board. My preferred method would be the my first suggestion but if somebody has a better idea please tell me! I know we have had discussions about skirting board at the bottom of the walls and how it will take knocks better than just having p/board to the floor with a s/gap trim above the tile but there are no little ones at the moment and grandchildren are not yet imminent and by then then I will be a lot more grumpier and will devise some method of preventing damage to our new home (that is if we decide not to have s/board). TIA

Right I want to be known as Russell from now on as I asked this question not long ago and nobody replied. Can i fit an electric mat heating above the wet pipe system?

Nice looking property!

I must admit my imagination is really letting me down! But the bigger the a--- the bigger the wedgie! Maybe a g string would be easier to remove but liable to cause more damage

Like I said Ian, just look back and remember all the bruises, cuts, sprains and may be blood that it took to build your house or did I not mention that!

Would that be crowd funding? The air test was £240 incl vat so when you get to £239 let me know ?

My b/insp said if the air test people will give me a certificate for the air test at 0.6 then he is happy with that. So received my cert and it says 0.56ach so happy with that, gutted I did not have my Internorm gasket in place, may have beaten Mr Harris 0.43!!

Yes but he tell you how long he took to make them!

No, i bought two lengths of 8 x 2 for the strings and then made the steps out 6 x 2. If the wood is bent, warped twisted I always get the price reduced and cut it up and use it in small pieces. When I dismantle them will use wood for shelving in the garage

Got some wood for £60 and made mine. They need to be solid as you will be carrying a lot of heavy stuff up them.