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MikeSharp01

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Everything posted by MikeSharp01

  1. MikeSharp01
    Technically yes they can (WTO stuff but essentially article 28 of TRIPS HERE). Naturally if you kept it quiet (not sure @Onoff is naturally inclined this way) you would probably get away with it as nobody would know would they but the fact that you looked up the patent would be traceable and, if they were a big pharma with lots to loose they would be keeping a beedy eye on you even as far away as Swansea and North Kent West is much closer!
  2. MikeSharp01
    @Onoff Have a look through the Sunamp patents and see how they initiate it then try and work out another way that does not infringe their patent, I guess they will have done a good job on their patents (HERE ARE A FEW) so you will be able to spend many happy hours playing with ideas while relaxing in the bath JUST AS SOON AS YOU HAVE FINISHED IT as Peter says
  3. MikeSharp01
    Better yet, give up toast - cut down on the carbs, the carcinogens in the blackened portions, the fat in the butter and just live a miserable life
  4. MikeSharp01
    This is awful! Do you own the land on which the perpetrators car is parked? If so why not put one of those mines underneath it or get one of those hydraulic bollards that comes out of the ground, when they trip the garden alarm the bollard comes up under the car or just in front of it preventing a get away.
  5. MikeSharp01
    Here is a pic of our garden room with counter battens in place - if it helps, soon putting on the main battens at 90 deg to these. The roof build up is I-joists on 600mm centres, 11mm sarking (OSB), membrane, counter battens (25 x 50), tile battens 25 x 50 and then the tiles.
  6. MikeSharp01
    Right now the interest rate is at the best it is going to be and so getting into a new product now would be sensible. You might even find that it pays to pay for the work to finalise BC, 0.25% over, say 10 years on, say, £200K is several £K in additional interest. BC is a must as @ragg987 says.
  7. MikeSharp01
    No one like this, that was a stylophone IIRC, and we won't even say what the bloke in the image was: Image ref : https://musicrhapsody.com/product/12-key-handcrafted-xylophone/
  8. MikeSharp01
    You are effectively wanting to build a set of chime bars or perhas a xylophone might be better to mechanically amplify a tiny amount of movement as you step on the stair to drive a small hammer that hits the tuned bar. And don't forget the tuned resonant cavity below it will you.
  9. MikeSharp01
    Its OK Ian, we were, have been, here listening just nothing witty or helpful to say.
  10. MikeSharp01
    Looks like at last they have decided to test the system instead of the core of just one part of it: http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-40520596 not sure why it took them so long, there must have been a motive I am just at a loss to see what it might have been unless they wanted everything to fail.
  11. MikeSharp01
    Sounds daft on their part to me Peter did they say why this was the case?
  12. MikeSharp01
    Thanks all. I agree Ali is hard to weld and although I took a course is was 35 years ago! Thanks @Onoff for your offer I will PM you for the people in Hoo as I have go past every day. I need the frames to allow me to repurpose the windows of the old house in the garden room. They are only double glazed but are of goof quality they just don't open so the frame is to allow me to add a hinge etc and provide strength. I think that I may look at mechanical fixing, thanks @JSHarris for the insights there. In the end, when I get back to locomotive building, I will need a new welder but perhaps I should put it off until then.
  13. MikeSharp01
    No old Welder is fine, still going strong but only stick welds possible and current control awful but I like your thinking.
  14. MikeSharp01
    Well in a way yes, but I have been hankering after a new welder for a long time and this looked like the excuse to buy one - not so sure now.
  15. MikeSharp01
    Yes I can get my brother to do it but I thought I could buy the kit and have it for other work around the place. How about this one: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sherman-TIG-201-AC-DC-200Amp-Welder-Aluminium-Inverter-MMA-for-Garages-Workshops-/222087632380?_trksid=p2349526.m2548.l4275
  16. MikeSharp01
    Hi all. I need to create two frames from 2"x3" 10SWG hollow section aluminium (6082 T6). Am thinking I should weld them so I need to buy the kit to do it - need to update my 45 year old arc welder as well. I know the @Onoffspeaks well of this model which with associated TIG kit sounds like a working solution for under £300. Any other recommendations or thoughts?
  17. MikeSharp01
    Thanks all, yes Ferdinand I think I will make it out of the OSB and line it with cement board, that makes perfect sense.
  18. MikeSharp01
    Just making the panel into which the consumer unit will be fitted along with a 60A switch fused unit and a distribution block. Wondered if I can make this panel out of OSB / plywood or if it needs to be specifically flameproof. Reading the regs it looks like it is just the consumer unit that has to be metal but the 'and similar switchgear' catch all is a worry. Essentially it is a box in one of the internal walls that will house the CU accept the in coming cable and take the outgoing cables away. The switch fused unit is for the in-line water heater. Any insights?
  19. MikeSharp01
    Classical thinking, yet to be overturned, is that we only progress through failure, be it of ideas - tossed aside along the path to the finished idea, or artifacts that are not as fit for purpose as they could be and sometimes not at all. Without failure we would be nowhere.
  20. MikeSharp01
    Yes thanks @Nickfromwales, the tray stays down it will be covered in tiles so once down that will be it. What I have done is fix some old plastic fairing in layers 6mm & 3mm thick under the trap on the concrete of the slab to support the trap so you cannot push it down but the way the trap connection works it can be slid out underneath along the channel as the two are connected together by a threaded section that drops through and screws into the lower portion of the trap. This is one reason why the grout fixing the tray down need to be right as it must end up with the trap sitting on the plastic spacers. The other approach I considered was to put the tray in attach the trap, test it, and then run an amount of slurry in the bottom of the void up to about 10mm above the base of the trap, which once cured will support it, this means I can be less worried about the fixing compound for the tray itself. I hope that once I am confident it is leak proof I won't ever need to move it hence the foam idea. Agree on the foam, I guess the little critters love it and I will find another solution to that one, I could back fill it with more slurry or create a very close fitting shroud around the stack and seal it with silicone. Fun this.
  21. MikeSharp01
    Have you not got one? My problem is finding the rocking horse droppings
  22. MikeSharp01
    Do you remain convinced that you really wanted @Nickfromwales close by
  23. MikeSharp01
    Actually the trap can be removed as the centre of the trap lifts out and you can then get at the outlet and the remains of the trap, you can then remove the connection at the stack end and withdraw it through the groove created in the slab between the trap and the stack. Once it is all in and pressure tested I will probably fill it with foam to remove possibility of vermin living in there. I was worried about casting the mould into the slab as it is does provide some interesting stress points in the slab that might lead to cracks propagating from the corners. In this slab its not a particular problem but in the house slab it is vital, in my view, that the mould has a continuous ring of rebar around the mould to prevent any such propagation. I hope the slab designer will build this in if not I will work with them to get it included.
  24. MikeSharp01
    Guys & Girls - it is Tuesday, if it takes two days to kick start the week then procrastination rules.....and you need to clear your spark plugs!
  25. MikeSharp01
    Yep Jamie here is the tray recess and associated tile recess just after I skimmed it over to smooth out the lumps and bumps. It was made using a former, second picture. (The concrete was poured through the holes that were then capped. Many thanks all, think I will go with @Nickfromwales suggestion as the non adherence of sand & cement seems to make good sense.
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