dogman

My PV had similar issues and SunAMP tech talked me through the test procedure. There is a small push switch on the pcb that starts the diagnostics and than result is shown via the leds. Be careful as 240v is present However i did find that the plugs on the pcb can come loose so check them. Mine turned out to be a faulty heater that was replaced under the warranty give them a ring as they were very good in sorting

Our BC officer wanted 5m to building and 2.5 to boundary unless a building was other side of boundary in which case it was 5m from that building they did check

@Weebles, did you get the metal manifolds. If yes be careful as they have many sharp edges to extract blood from hands. If you have not yet got them i got the largest they did so i only used one side of the unit for connections to make fitting easier. Don't forget the condensate drain, the cable for an extension controller and any cables you need to switch the unit to boost( cooker hood, bathroom lights etc) Also i only put one silencer on the supply. I cannot hear any noise. However i can hear noise on the extract vents so will need to fit a silencer on that side aswell

@Weebles we have two electric ovens (neff hide and slide) and a 5 burner LPG hob. Above the hob is a luxair glass extractor fitted with twin carbon filters set to recirculate The oven units have vents at the back but the Neff seems to vent through a vent above the doors at the front. As they are next to the hob extractor the heat would be drawn into the extractor I have found that the house stays cool if you do not introduce heat including from outside so i do not really want to open doors or windows. However that is my only choice as an MVHR even on boost cannot remove the heat from cooking( we have fitted two ducts to the MVHR extract in the kitchen that copes well with smells from cooking. I wish i had put a duct from the luxair extractor to the outside wall so i had the option to vent the cooker hood outside( i know that the negative pressure caused by the removal of 980m³/hr at full belt would require us opening a window but at least that could be at the cool side of the house. I would have not cut the hole until i had passed the air test and fitted an air valve to shut it off if needed.

Fitting an external exhaust from the cooker hood is the one thing i wish i had fitted. Even if i had put in the duct but not actually breached the air tight envelope would have been the best option so that i had the option to duct it outside. Smell so far is not the issue its the heat in the summer

Try these https://www.diy.com/departments/kesseb-hmer-imove-single-tier-internal-pull-down-shelf-600mm/1414132_BQ.prd?utm_source=google_cpc&utm_medium=shopping&utm_campaign=PX_GSC_Kitchens_+_Generic&ppc_type=shopping&ds_kids=92700029894470044&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIl-vWx6yu3QIViOd3Ch267wy5EAQYAiABEgKZXvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CKXR586srt0CFcg8Gwod1q4N9w

We have now been in the house for three months and last week received the completion certificate Vat claim will be submitted this week as the "wife" has been compiling the receipts as we progressed. Still need to finish some rooms and have not got any carpets / curtains etc but it is not spoiling the pleasure of living in the house. There is only one thing so far i wish i had done. Fit a proper externally vented cooker extractor. I know it goes against all the air tightness etc but during the recent hot weather cooking indoors was not a pleasure as it really heated the house up. We have found that if you keep it cool it stays cool but once it warmed up cooling it down took a lot of effort. Solved it by using the BBQ outside most days Things I am thinking about are some sort of energy monitoring. We have 4.2kw of panels and produce far more electricity than we use at this time of year. If I can work out when and how much we produce it will help decide if I need some sort of storage solution, or in winter move to economy 7/10.

I have experience of both systems and can say that it makes a difference having a summer bypass although not a massive difference. What i found was that our system without a summer bypass in our rental cottage appears to make the house very hot and not able to cool down over night where our new house with a proper summer bypass, although it got hot on the worst nights this year was no where near as bad.

A quick option for you would be to disconnect one of the two fans in the unit as a simple summer bypass. I am assuming you have opening windows. Disconnect the intake fan in order to ensure that stale air is extracted. Keep a window open in each room to allow the cooler evening air to be pulled into the room. Some smaller units that advertise a summer bypass use this method rather than a true bypass so check if you do replace the unit

Punch it out as it says. Just did mine and it was easy. Same sink by the look of it

I managed to borrow one, but you can rent if you only want to do your own house. Wait till winter as it won't be as effective in the summer I had a Flir

Thank you for all the replies. Some highlights of the first few days. 1. Hot water is via a Sunamp +expansion.. So happy with this. I know its summer and we have 4.2KW of solar but the last few days have not been the best for sun and i was worried we would need to heat using full priced electricity. Its been full by lunch time and that is after a full bath and two showers a day plus the incidental sink use. Flow is excellent although not really checked the what if situations (turning other taps on etc.) 2. Ventaxia MVHR. Keep checking to see if it is on as so quiet. House is kept at 21deg although we need to see how it works this week as its hotter outside. Summer bypass is only set to cut in on temp differential not on a timed purge The only issue we have is the low 25mm simpson shower tray. The flow is so good on the showers that when its on full you get a slight overflow out the door. The drain is the standard one connected to 50mm

With one week to spare we have moved in?. Not finished as no doors or skirting finished etc.

Re land drain. You need to check as we did not need one. MBC will advise you on this. Also if you do remember that you have already dug out 1m past the foundation so unless you are on some horribly draining land then the land drain sits in the 1m strip

I think you can use a landline number with vonage over fibre

Just remember with a meter move that the DNO moves the cable and fuse and your supplier the actual meter we have just fallen foul of this despite the Admin at our electric company insisting they did both. Put our completion back as we are now waiting for the DNO to give us a date.for the cable to be moved. Good thing is that its a service alteration so only £480 quid

No crates just half bricks and some large crush we are on very well draining chalk

I worked out that I would need 4m3 of soakaway Building control were good and suggested 4 at 1m3 to avoid having to properly design it. Split the roof into 4 areas and are today funnily enough digging them. They were also happy with clean hardcore in dummpy bags with several slits Run a T at the end above the bag and fit a cap at ground level so that they can be rodded

good idea thanks

Thanks for the tip. Looking on my normal places that i buy parts they are quite expensive do you know a cheap supplier that may do them

Thanks for the comments everyone. I am stuck with my buffer tank so it was the best option. The design allows isolation of the buffer tank when cooling so it could still be used as a heat dump for excess PV to pre heat the sunamp. Any thoughts on this isolation. i was going for a set of either motorised valves or two manual valves. I have noticed that i need to add a small expansion to the water heating side to manage expansion when isolated. Other option would be to swap the bottom valve with spring loaded or swing check valve that should allow expansion but prevent the cold and hot mixing. I do have an issue with space so one expansion vessel would be preferable.

Bumping my old thread as i am starting the plumbing for the Heating and cooling. I have looked at the examples others have used plus some detail i found on the web Below is my first draft design Its based on a two pipe system for a buffer tank with the two spare bosses used for the pre heat for the sunamp Can anyone see anything that would cause problems?

I bought a dewalt as I have the batteries already. Was a bit nervous as all the guys on site use pasilode. However it works just as well. No gas needed. Fires same nails as pasilode so works out cheaper in long run. Was going to sell but will keep it as it is so so useful

I used Jeld wen in the SIP cottage I built and are currently living in whilst our new house is finished. My only issue is that the handles have tarnished and sort of corroded the finish. However in terms of build quality and performance i cannot complain and have had no issues Ours were off the shelf through Jewsons

I tried it and paid the fee Although it sort of helped as it meant i could cut and paste the text on each subject there was a lot that had to be changed so not sure it actually saved me time. would i do it again --no not worth the fee