dogman

I have a Hikvision system, but based on some other users recommendation i bought a 4mp reolink PTZ camera. Ith as its issues but the image at night is top notch. The software is not as fussy as Hikvision as it only allows streaming not playback If you just want a camera to view try https://reolink.com/product/rlc-423/ As a system for your home after the build i would recommend Hikvision. the DVR?Nvr are good quality and will work with most cameras with ONVIF protocol

We dis use a crushing company. They supply the operator crusher and the digger with a special bucket to remove any soil or dust as it blocks the machine. I would not do it myself as the machines are a bit of a dark art. If you need to bring in hard core you will save money crushing your own I would suggest you speak with the operator first and agree that they run the stone through the machine twice. Its a lot quicker that trying to crush it down small in the first run. We went for the red rhino. Try to keep your rubble as clean as possible. It can cope with mortar but not soil its fun watching it but it is a bit loud

The mbc pipe is very good quality based on the two other systems I have installed. It is a barrier pipe with an aluminium core. As @Barney12 states it's from Earthsave products in Wallingford. I got it myself as they are supplying all my underfloor heating parts. The pipe uncoils well using a machine and does not kink or split.

yes we have pozijoists that are about 100mm wide they run approx 1 each edge and one in the middle. as per instructions added extra support at each end as well don't have a picture of floor but this is what it looks like. the next picture is of the other bathroom that has a 25mm stone tray this has ply fitted on top of the joists it shows how i have framed the opening all supports are glued and screwed

Thanks an excellent post as normal Yes we are using the full impey system. will need to fill a couple of areas with ply as they didn't show that either but as we have yet to board the ceiling underneath its not an issue

Fitting my Impey wet room former and am ready to screw it down. However i have read the instructions and watched the video but cannot see them using mastic either under the tray or between the rotating ring and the tray. For those who have fitted an "easy fit" is this right?

Just to add to the information from JSH. I don't think he mentioned how to check your pressure vessel. Once a year i power down the bore hole pump and run the water till the pressure drops to zero. Open the pressure valve to be sure there is no water pressure in the vessel. On top of the vessel will be a fill valve that is the same as your car tyre valve. Using a tyre pressure gauge check the pressure in the vessel. Now the pressure should be just below the pump cut in pressure. I for some reason lost all the pressure in a tank a few years ago and thought the tank bladder had failed but once i re-pressurised it it held. Could be worth you checking as above As JSH has stated its normally the filters that cause the reduction in flow. I run three in parallel and change the filters every couple of months. As for your borehole details. Your local council are now the legal authority and will have the details of the installation and initial testing( assuming it was properly installed.) they may wish to inspect and have a right to do so. However unless the borehole supply's more than one dwelling or supply's a business including letting the house you do not need to to have annual testing. We were forced to upgrade our borehole well head as we have a self catering cottage on the supply

As a comparison a single glassed window in a flat next door Upstairs is triple glazed upvc downstairs Victorian single glazing i have left some heaters on tonight and it will be -2 overnight so will have another look tomorrow

I have a new toy for the weekend. managed too borrow a FLIR camera to check the walls and roof for areas of cold before i plasterboard Although it was not that cold last night i ran it over the whole of the inside surface looking for cold spots. Good news is that there aren't any and as i suspected (the guy who did our pumped insulation for MBC was spot on and very fussy ) The cold spots are where i suspected plus a few that i can address. The obvious. Unsealed conduit in the walls. MVHR duct Soil pipe The sliding patios are not good but i sort of knew it as they were messed up by the window company. the runner is aluminium and some 4 deg cooler Front doors. Not passive with a U value of 1.4 and outside a window from inside and outside my only concern. this is where the windows meet the timber frame and is the slight 1-2mm gap that we tried to seal with foam. Its an easy fix as the internal window cills need to be lifted up 20mm. so i will run 20mm insulation board along the joint to try and minimise a cold spot

My borehole system is a lot simpler as water quality is good and all I need to do is filter chalk sediment out the supply. That said I have 3 high flow filters in parallel to maintain flow.

i have gone for a monarch. it claims to be 78lpm max

No please continue looking at PRV anyway. We are on a borehole with a 500lt pressure vessel so I can control the range easily. It is planned to set it to between 4 and 6bar and the prv set to 3bar. The tank can go to 8 bar if needed Re the SunAmps I did look at two in parallel but we only have two bathrooms. I will be using a manifold system feed from the Sunamp so any pressure drop will be down to them. I went for a high flow watersoftener so that should not cause any drops.

Anything before the plasterboard

@TerryEYou obviously got two independent units. Ours is one plus an expansion

First fix started and i will say its going well. My SunAmps arrived today. Need day off to rest, they weigh a tonne. well 170kg actually Shown with tops off

@TerryEIts just something i read when looking at SSR's I would rather use SSRs as they are cheaper than the relays and probably a lot better. They can be sited inside the heat coil so the wire going back to the plant room is volt free Each SSR or relay would have its own totally separate 240v switched live input. then the two N/O sides would be wired in parallel to each other to a single zone underfloor heating controller as if it was a thermostat. In effect calling for heat. The controller then fires up the pump and provided a volt free for the heat pump This is the cheapest and easiest for me to do. I all ready have an old single zone controller that is brand new but been sat in my garage for a couple of years

If going for flush metal fittings the plastic will show with some makes of fitting so best to try and fit metal back boxes

Time has been our biggest cost over run. The delay in the windows cost me over £5 k and a lesson learnt.

@TerryEI have a fan coil that has an RS485 control system. I need to switch a pump on and off to feed the fan coils. As i don't want to use two different control systems the company recommend using a relay switched by the switched live in the fan coil to drive the pump and provide a N/O switch for the heat pump. As they will be mainly used for cooling there is no buffer vessel in the feed when in cooling mode so there is a need for the N/O As i may use more than one fan coil i understand that SSR don't like being in parallel with each other so may stick with relays

The Bell in Aldworth So far we have had no professional fees at all(big saving) All the work ourselves other than a digger and driver for 4 days. The frame and founds were by MBC 3g passive aluclad windows and doors Render by a Prorend approved render company The plastering will be by a company as well. Everything else is us even the electrical donkey work with the electrician doing design and checks with final testing and sign off. We are not cutting corners with some good quality bathrooms and a Howden Kitchen and a granite slab on the island solid oak doors skirting etc solid oak winder stairs Solar in roof panels, Sunamp, and heat pump A lot is down to hours of shopping around. ie the oak ledged and braced doors came in at £115 inc hand made furniture.

Hi, we are another MBC client, And are not that far from you on the Oxon border, currently at first fix but we are doing everything ourselves. If you want pop down and see us as it often helps to see first hand and we are on our third self build Ours is 300sq m and will be less than 300k finished I visited a lot of members homes before we started and are happy to return the favour

Not sure that is from Earthsave Products. it looks like a company called coolenergy, A quick look at their site and you can find the specification. Cannot see that any are MCS listed so be careful if you want RHI

It was quite a day as it appeared out of the scaffold. The property that was removed was an old coach house and stable block. We have tried to reflect this is the design. There is a pair of large fake oak doors being fitted the the front window to look like the old carriage entrance.

Scaffold down at long last. still need to have the oak porch and oak balcony fitted