dogman

You need a patch panel at the hub end. All the cables terminate in the panel.They are normally punch down as JSH pointed out. You use pre-made patch cables to link each port to your switch

@PeterW cancel last found these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/250V-SSR-100DA-SSR-40DA-SSR-25DA-25A-40A-100A-Solid-State-Relay-Module-Heat-Sink/112605169480?hash=item1a37ca8748:m:mg_NqrRPXW4x_FaUjacuugg

Thanks Peter will look at SSRs. Any idea as where i can get a couple cheapish

No the amps are not the issue. I need only the N/O N/c switching. The link was the cheapest I could find.

Found this relay. Probably just as easy to mount on a strip board http://uk.farnell.com/schrack-te-connectivity/rt334730/power-relay-spst-no-16a-250v-th/dp/2748015

@ProDave did look at CPC but could only find DC switching/control not ac switching

Yes that would work Had a look for a 240v input version but all switch AC http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ChaoHe-Temperature-Contoller-4-Terminals-Solid-State-Relay-SSR-25-AA-P4N5-/222688351495?epid=1787173477&hash=item33d9429507:g:gEAAAOSw9mpZ7JOO This is an example. As most normally open control circuits use 10v to detect the NO/NC state how would this work with an AC/Ac ssr

Not sure if anyone can help but there a lot of Boffins who may know where i can get a small relay board I need to turn a switched live into a N/O contact. I have seen a large relay in a holder that will do it as well as din rail version. What i need is a small board version where the coil input is 240v ( the switched live ) and the switched side is a N/O switch I have seen plenty that are switched using 5v or 12v

Try not to joint board at corners of windows and doors. It wastes loads but will minimise cracking risk. Batten round any ducts etc. and batten where you want to hang anything on the outside such as lights or sky dish

Like JSH i can only comment on the twin stud, although our last house was a SIP build. We were and to some extent still are a fan of SIPS but having used MBC twin stud for the latest build i am glad we did. A lot is to do with MBC attitude and attention to detail but there are some aspects that are better in my opinion. The foundation package and the lack of cold bridging are a the biggest advantage.. The studs inside the sips and other build methods are a cold bridge and the need to add insulation on the inner skin adds problems such as fixing it to the frame As JSH mentioned we found that the whole feeling of the house changed when the cellulose was pumped in and it is some much quieter than the sip house. As for performance i cannot comment as we are still at first fix stage.

@bissoejosh yes you can. As JSH states above there is a graphic across the page that can be removed.

There is a 200mm x 300mm reinforced ring beam around the outside,

We stuck with sawn timber for fascia, and barge boards. The soffits are UPVC. Guttering is fake cast iron that had to be swapped as the first lot melted in the sun. (remember that hot weather). Will take photo later Will finish off everything at roof level next week and look to take down scaffold ASAP. @Barney12 Probably not as far on as you inside as only just started the soil pipes and some first fix wiring.

We have some colour matched upvc trim to cut

The render is finished Took a lot longer than they quoted but it has come out better than expected. The fake arch heads ready for render Base coat Finished just need to tidy up The colour will lighten to a fawn and it was getting dark so it is not that pink

£5 of £40 at toolstation FIVEOCT17

I was going for their Varimax H4-12, will ask next time i am in there as i need some more bits in a week or two before i get the ASHP

No its a complete redesign, something to do with a housing company wanting a compact version for a development. Its being sent off for testing and certification so is not yet available. It was about 800 x 800 and 600 deep. In and out on the top the one in the warehouse was 2k cooling and 3 k heating and max 300 m3/h it had a co2 and humidity sensor as standard It looked like a standard MVHR

@dpmiller you mean the Heliotherm. Saw one today. A bit outside my price range

@Heppy yes i have. Used them for our last build and fitted their Ecocent, and Classic heat pump. my equipment has going strong for 3 years now with them carrying out an annual service on both. I had a temperature probe go and they came straight out and changed it. As JSH states they are one of the cheapest around for a good reliable product. In fact i saw a prototype MVHR they are developing that heats and cools and is half the size of the Genvex. Shame i have my Mvhr already.

Interesting as i am currently talking to them as well. Spent a good hour today at their office chatting to Nick and he fully understands the concept of a passive MBC timber frame and heating the groundfloor only. In fact he has responded to the need for a low temp blender valve and can now supply this:- I am taking a slightly different view on upstairs and just picked up 3 fan coil rads from them as i want to be able to cool the upstairs in the summer.

Yes that's the plan. I'm doing the installation of the wood board and trying to ensure all the cable routes are accessible to cut down of time on site.

Could you just run a length of intumescent seal around the mounting board. It should allow air flow and adjustments but protect if there is flame

Anyone know the answer to how a void is treated? Does the electrician want to run them up the slopping ceiling and into the first floor joists for a reason and will covering them with a sheet of plasterboard change something? (rating? or circuit length) I have already had to add a couple of extra ring main circuits because of cable length and dont want any more as running out of ways

Not hard do. The area above the cu would be a safe zone so no nails in future and using painted MDF screwed to battens would be fine