Construction Channel

I would agree with putting the joists in first. Then temp board them with all the OSB you have lying around. If nothing else it will make it feel a lot safer when you are working on the roof. That will look a long way down if you have nothing else to hit from the ridge to the floor.

Mines called Faye, Shes the one with the patience, Truckloads of patience........amongst other things obviously also Welcome to the forum Marie,

do you offer hot beverages? they make a big difference

You’ll be surprised how out of upright you can get away with, if it falls over you went a bit too far ? but seriously i waould say 25mm over that distance will be fine. Imagine the Center of gravity, then imagine how far you would have to push it to get it over its tipping point. It’s the same with diggers.

agreed , while you are at it, get rid of the lead, is the lead from that joint to the meter or the other way round?

Faye is up for most things but posting that kind of picture on the internet might be a step too far..

admittedly i should have taken a picture of Faye in it, but c'mon it is a bad assed mask

I have known him for a lot of years and if there is something wrong I am confident he will be able to sort it for me, as for prices the 6 port manifold was 125 + vat, I looked online for a decent brand to match it and no one could come close, obviously I did look before I just took his offer but you have to understand it is slightly awkward arguing with a good friend and what I consider a competent tradesman that some guy on the internet thinks you are wrong.( i mean no disrespect by the "guy on the internet" phrase but you know what I mean, we are are all tradesmen here)

You mis understand. He is just trying to help and I am abusing his discounts. There will be no problem taking the pump back. All I really needed was the manifold to get floor poured. He has already said it might not be what I need. TBH I don’t know why it was on The order but I try not to question the gift horse.

I can take the pump back if I need to. I only put it together to see how it all fitted. TBH Toby did say I might not want it but he ordered it for me because I hadn’t decided on the final heating system yet.

I should note that the board it is mounted to is where the plasterboard will eventually be. I know the pipes bend but there is no harm in forward planning.

What Nick said. This is all temporary so I can pour the floor. Eventually it will be mounted on the plasterboard

Ashp. Will be the main component, the rest is yet to be decided. The pipes are at 150 centres so hopefully I am on the safe side on whatever system I choose to boost the heat if I need to.

Dont get me started. My plumber friend kept banging on about not having the wrong pipes heat the wrong room. So I have been having the pipes leading to different rooms tight to the edge. Having the pipes tight would lead to “hot spots” hence having the returns in conduit. IMHO it is a massive waste of time and money as the conduit is a pita to fit. BUT I know very little about the job and I will accept advice from experienced people even if I disagree with it.

In the delay we fitted some of the 140mm R32 frame therm into the timber frame upstairs. I forgot to take a picture so will update that tomorrow but I did remember to take a picture of “Faye’s” new insulating mask and my new head torch that runs on 18650 batteries. I happen to have loads of them from taking apart old Makita batteries. Why only have one lamp when you can have 5 ?

So update time. I had to wait for some more conduit to be delivered hence the delay but so far we have done 3 zones covering 2 rooms. It got a bit complicated around the shower waste but I’m happy with how it turned out.

3 questions, - where is the hole in the VCL from the pilot hole? -is that a 3 speed makita drill? if so, you lucky bastard, someone stole mine and they are virtually impossible to replace. - how can you sleep at night with so few screws in your ceiling?

the datum could be a foot thick as long as you always refer to the same part of it, match the top of the laser to the top of the sharpie mark every time and it will be as accurate as the thinnest of pencil lines also, that crowbar is just waiting to hit you on the head......

beat me to it. or grout it in first with a less sloppy mix

^ what @Declan52 said, plus get some longer ones, from the look of it they are only in about 30mm in the wall, if it still spins put a plug in the hole and put it back in

Now the ceiling screws look too far apart.

Ditto. I knocked off early today to sort the back of the van. I’m still at it.... next job, the workshop, but that might take a few evenings ?

Fwiw I bought these to cut all my bricks in half. Bit dusty but it did the job well https://www.toolstop.co.uk/index.php?option=shop&page=shop.product_details&product_id=16012&l=uk&utm_source=google&utm_medium=base&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2P6izqqj2QIVz7ftCh29_AqNEAQYASABEgIxjfD_BwE https://www.toolstop.co.uk/evolution-db355-rage-2-diamond-cutting-blade-355mm-p14004 its an old video so I opologise about the quality. But here it is in action. Skip to 11:30 for the actual brick cutting

how thick is the wall? I would go for a concrete screw if im honest, drill an undersized pilot hole and wind it in as far as i could, give it a good dose of CT1 or similar as well, aerated blocks are notorious for getting a rubbish fixing https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p39995?r=googleshopping&rr=marin&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&mkwid=sckRtJFKF_dc&pcrid=142501343890&pkw=&pmt=&product=39995&gclid=CjwKCAiAk4XUBRB5EiwAHBLUMQOFmkPzkeQaFl9zBlhdTZpNHm4EXatp4ULTg_HoAvcDePlNe9sbIRoC0IcQAvD_BwE also i dont know if the clips will allow you to choose where to fix but if you can aim for a dob

Iv tried teaching faye to fly it. She gets too scared and soon passes the controller back. I also have the advantage that it will return to where it took off from at a preset altitude at the press of a button. ? you get what you pay for.... and it was bloody expensive.