Vijay

I've thought of buying bricks to cut into slips and will be looking into these machines https://www.husqvarnacp.com/uk/machines/masonry-saws/ts-400-f/965148101/

Yep found that today, kneeling in clay to hammer them out was a pain If I'm allowed to fix the first layer of ledgers/transoms on the second pegs, I can stick to 2m lifts Already got some standard scaffold pole and fixings and was planning on tying through the windows/doors

great How long is a good time to mix?

Cheers. should have mentioned I'll be using a genny for power on site. Should I keep the mixer going with the second half? Can I still over mix by leaving the mixer going?

I'm redoing some of my scaffold at the moment and need some advice. 1. Do the lowest ledger and transom have to be on the bottom pegs or is it safe to have them on the second set of pegs? This is on the lowest standard, on the base plates. 2. I know the recommended lift height is 2m (4th peg), but is it totally safe to have a lift at 2.5m (5th peg)? 3. Do the ledgers and transoms have to be on the same height pegs? My scaffold will be up to a third storey in places, so I don't want to do anything that isn't totally safe. But having an extra 1/2 metre when I do the next ICF pour would really help. Cheers Vijay

Evening, Job in a few weeks is to lay 500 odd blocks for my internal walls. I'll be working on my own, so I wondered if anyone can give me any advice on mixing up the mortar. I can use a cement mixer but I'll be laying the blocks at a slower pace, so would it be an idea to mix the mortar in smaller batches, maybe using a paddle mixer and large bucket? Cheers Vijay

My only experience with Octopus was them being quite deceitful. I gave them my usage figures and they gave me a higher price. They then asked what I was paying a month, which they they said they could beat. When I questioned that, it turned out the reason they would beat my monthly charges, was by reducing the usage figures - so basically I would end up in debt if I used the same energy. Very wrong of them to try and fool people!!!

Which also just about gives you the ability to move a ton bag of materials which I'm so glad I personally considered

Brilliant and well deserved for all your battles and hard work

A sparks mate told me it was basically £50 a fitting London prices

So is there any reason to add more when laying bricks/blocks if it's already in there?

I could well be wrong, but shipping containers suffer badly with condensation I believe.

I used some 19KG blocks for the rising wall - no intention of using them for the internal walls, it would finish me off!!! lol

Can anyone confirm that medium density concrete blocks are around 13-14KG and dense blocks are around 19KG?

strange cos they were so helpful when I've used them

Cheers guys. From what I have read on an old post, Fibolite are aerated blocks?

Didn't see the point in having thicker ICF internal walls. I'm doing block on top of a layer of Marmox Thermoblock for a thermal break for my internal load bearing and timber for the others

Need to look at my internal walls next which will be in 7.3nm blocks. I just wondered if there's any preferred blocks to use? I'm assuming medium density blocks just cos of the lighter weight of them compared to dense blocks, but any other reasons like sound insulation etc.? Cheers Vijay

Lucky I've been doing it outside then lol I found getting the right tension on the wire and not pushing the material through too quickly really helped with that. I also designed mine to run straight off a 12v car battery

A bit slower, but making a hot wire cutter is pretty easy to do

if you can take a pic, these people have helped me in the past https://www.toiletspares.co.uk/

Thank you, I'll keep hold of their details for when I'm finally at that point

Is it this company? https://www.whcylinders.co.uk/

I sadly found them absolutely useless at getting back to me. After about 4 attempts I just gave up

I agree, think most brickies would be happy if they could do that!!