Vijay

I got mine from these guys and they were simply brilliant!! https://www.scaffoldingsupplies.co.uk/ They worked out what I needed but I ended up doing my own plan and it's worked out well. Members on here helped me understand the system as I'd never seen it before. As ProDave said, you might be easier to buy a package. Where abouts are you cos if you can visit a site using the stuff, makes it so easy to understand the system once you physically see it. Vijay

I can't see why you wouldn't use edging tape. Fix with wood glue, using a hot iron over a cloth to dry the glue almost instantly (which also makes the tape sit nice and flat). Then use a small fine file to take the excess edging off.

That's just tease porn!!! lol

This is just my own personal opinion but a PM is never gonna care as much about your project as you and they are never gonna find the cheapest deals. On a self build near mine, the PM never went to site and was shocked when he was fired - after the floor went in at wrong levels and he expected the customer to pay for it to be put right! As Dan Fest said, a good main contractor will more than likely know other trades that he/she uses and knows their work. Out of interest, have you had a price for a PM?

Exactly what I did, but IIRC the inline fan I fitted had the timer option

You can get inline fans, then duct under the floor to an an external wall (if you have floor boards). So the extraction vent is low in the toilet and would go out to an air brick.

Acrypol has fibres in it, it's not just a paint If it was me, I would use a pressure washer to clean the roof and if you still believe it's in good condition, Acrypol it if it's just a few years your after. You could always recoat it in a few years which is exactly what I've done/doing at my Mums

Roofers use Acrypol, around £150 for 20l. I've used it on my Mums roof and found it to be good stuff. Just warm up the can by leaving it in hot water or the hot sun for ages

It'll only take 5 minutes lol Seriously though, I know what you mean, but my plan is to have them all cut and ready to place in between the H rails. Screw holes will all be pre-drilled. I know on pour day I need manpower, better to have too many bodies than not enough. Should be at least 6 of us including Alan from Polarwall.

I've been told to set the plate/fixings onto the wet concrete. Surely it makes sense to do it that way rather than trying to get holes in the timbers in the right position later on?? I see you point abut truss location

I haven't heard back from the BM yet but I'm gonna push for a refund. I don't really want to be stuck with 32 x 4.8m lengths of 6x2 if they stay twisted (even with them laid flat and weight on them) So, I'm gonna look at making the pole plates up in ply. Any suggestions on which ply to use? The issue I will still have is for the wall plates that the attic trusses will sit on. Are there other solutions apart from using 150 x 2 timbers? Worst case scenario is I can use threaded bar set into the ICF core when I pour the concrete, then wind the timber back into place if it has twisted?

Had a chat with Polarwall today and he basically said get a refund on the timber and use 2 x 18mm ply ripped down and glued/screwed. He said Kero boards are great but expensive and way OTT for what's needed. 2 x 150's to make a 300 would have been no issue if they weren't twisted, I would have had no problem doing that. Completely agree about buying 300 timbers, around £50 odd quid for a 4.8m length and probably have the same issues

Polarwall is slightly different, it's a panel system that uses H rails, the ICF boards sit into. Basically I would replace an ICF board with timber and that would act as the pole plate. This is from another post where you can see the timber board in place

Right another idea from some of your posts. Could I make up my own sort of laminate boards from ply or OSB (I'd prefer OSB as I hate ply with a passion). I need to make a board up of approx 300 x 50, so I'm wondering if I could glue/screw 2 x 18mm and an 11 or 15mm board, giving me either a 48 or 51mm thick board (which I could then rip down or rip the sheets down first to 300's). If that idea is ok for a pole plate mounted mounted into the Polarwall ICF (I'll call them tomorrow too), could the DIY laminate idea be used for the walls plates (cut down to 150 x 48/51mm) to support my attic trusses? Looking at pics of the Kerto boards, they look like laminated ply to what ever dimensions you require?

You mean for the Kerto boards? I don't think I got the crap as they weren't twisted when they were delivered, they've twisted in the last 2 weeks. I could use slightly warped/banana'd but definitely not twisted.

If I can't use the timber, I'd expect a refund as they're not fit for purpose (no way am I just gonna throw away 400 odd quid). I've emailed the builders merchants so will see what they come back with. I'll also get a price on Kerto beams (if they supply them). I need loads though

Never heard of them, will look into them. How pricey??

They haven't been ordered yet mate, need to get the pour done and internal walls up to hold them

I'll have a look at them tomorrow

That was an option but 50mm board fixed into the Polarwall ICF better which is why I went this way

Haven't I got enough to do ?

Not an option, have to go in the wall as I build up as the floor joists fix into them in places

I remember us chatting about that video and we were talking about your idea on doors. My concern with car traffic is what do you do if/when the GRP is damaged - how easy to fix the situation

Can do with some of them, but some will be fitted into the walls next week, but not fixed as no concrete..........................

Do you think fibreglass angle would be strong enough to drive over continuously? What supports it? Would be better than using steel!