Nickfromwales

Apologies, it’s late. I don’t buy cheap, so would go towards recommendations from colleagues who install this stuff on a day to day basis. If it’s one summer room or garden office, I’d recommend a cheap and cheerful, best-of-the-worst Chinese offering. For one current client (>£1.5m) I would only recommend going with one of the big hitters, LG / Samsung / Daikin / Fujitsu / Panasonic etc. This is because of after sales support, parts procurement, more robust installer network / longevity and quality of the kit and so on. To be less evasive, I look at kit to suit a remit, and as I don’t directly install domestic AC I don’t have a go-to manufacturer, specifically, as a blanket solution. I do, however, have some excellent strategic partners who I reach out to in my hour(s) of need. Ive lost count of how many times I’ve recommended a particular piece of equipment or a manufacturer, and then during the construction phase I’ve said that “we’re not going with that any more, and here’s why!”. I maintain, the shoe must fit, so each client gets a few offerings laid out in front of them (“bronze, silver, gold”), and the pros cons and caveats explained comprehensively for each option, and then they are in a position to be left alone to make their own, informed decision based on the information that I’ve gathered and shared.

The correct one for the particular instance, of course! I don’t copy / cut / paste, so each job starts on a clean bit of A4. Not lost a patient yet.

Exactly what I’m doing for 2 current new build clients. The more I look into it, after a bit over 10 years focussing my interests in the “PH” arena, the more and more this makes absolutely perfect sense.

@jfb Get your wellies ready son, we’re going in…..

Not the stems, just the pump nuts. Also, brass doesn’t rust so it’s the pump that’s corroding not the valves. Very likely the original pump has those nasty rigid washers, not the modern, more compliant rubber ones. Dog. Bone. 🤣

@NCXo82ike Have you not thermally decoupled the steel from the concrete? I use different products to achieve this, with Bosig Phonotherm on the most recent clients project. If the steels are already in, then defo look at a spray foam, but box the areas you wish to insulate, using release agent, and fill the voids. Then remove the boxing in to make way for bonding on Marmox boards to then accept plaster skim coat + paint.

Likewise, but these aren’t original-looking, old ass valves in the op. You know I’m like a dog with a bone so this one’s worth a bit of (maybe mis) adventure afaic. “What if they work?” 👀

If it helps, the SVP can be reduced to 3” after the last WC is picked up. It’s only carrying air at that stage so capacity is no longer a factor. You can still T in a sink / bath / shower etc to the reduced SVP, it’s just solids that aren’t ideal at the smaller diameter. You can actually have a single WC feed into 3” pipe, but nobody does it.

Defo.

Yes, but what exactly is the point in fitting pump isolation valves, if you change them every time you change the pump? May as well just hard plumb the pumps at that stage. Worth seeing if they hold as it's a basement or summat by the look of it, so a few drops of water ain't gonna hurt, but the changeover will be a 30 min job.

With DPM and PIR over it, any issues will stay subterranean for sure. Full steam ahead!

Not the kind of thing you want falling off

Also didn’t help that the French chap who supported, pissed of back to the land of the baguette with the female connectors……after showing me and saying to keep them safe…..after supposedly leaving them for me to do the final hookup. lol.

Sorry, we seem to have missed this. It’s the original slab you’ve levelled?

Should be plenty beefy enough. Just need to have these in reasonably high frequency if the glass is to be leant against / accident / misadventure etc.

I fixed the little windmill on to a patio slab, on a previous clients job, and set it down onto a section of flat roof where it was out of sight. Wont you lose the warranty without it installed? Even if it’s disconnected. Agree, there’s not much room with the Somfy switches, and making off the 0.75mm2 5-core was a git. 1.5mm2 is way overkill, as that’ll take 18amps. 3a or 5a fuse on these from memory, so 0.75mm2 is ample.

Defo need a water store on site there?! Always good to explore if a mist system will be permissible, as these use next to bugger all water and don’t need a huge supply. Distribution pipework is just like a beefy (braided) garden hose, so is a doddle to get 1st fixed. Current client is 200m to the road.

Cool. Just better to not void the warranty of your new equipment, so see if they have a product to give you.

Yes, got that, thanks. I meant that the spark wired to humidistat to be on 24/7, so is likely to just be on the loop in and not connected to the lights. This means the culprit seems to be the fan. I'd contact the manufacturer and ask if they can provide a snubber and give details of where it should be connected to rid you of the issue. At least this should discount the dimmer / light switching.

FYI, if you click on text in a post and highlight it, you’ll see a pop up saying “quote selection”. To ‘mention’ a member, type @ and the first letter of their username and select from the drop down list

We had to do sprinklers at >45m for my client in MK.

So you have a separate switch for lights, that doesn’t provoke the fan to come on at all? And a second switch to trigger the fan to start and overrun. And the humidity stat is permanently powered and switches on / off of its own free will?

The batten needs to be higher up, so it doesn’t get hammered by bounce back from rainfall. IMHO, the membrane should be flapping a bit there to promote drip / runoff, vs being clamped tight by the batten. Just feels like that would hold / harbour moisture too much (my simple opinion).

Good stuff. Velux can be controlled by a wall remote, and iirc these can provoke the opening at a particular set point, eg you then don’t have to run around upstairs checking room temps to decide to open them or not. That would be a hellish existence, and imho wholly impractical, but as above also then reliant on human interventions. Automating that, very simply, seems a perfect solution, and offers zero reliance on any occupant.

I’ve worked for 2 clients, both have done new builds in the rear ‘garden’, both needed automatic fire suppression due to access / distance to road and boundary etc. Your builder friend seems disinterested, probably because of a life hitting blocks to split them and working in the rain and mud for x number of decades. Stop listening to him. Grab life by the horns and explore this project for yourself!!! Levels of enthusiasm should come from what the goal is, so you’ll be much more engaging if this is a new, energy efficient and low maintenance and running cost dwelling that would then become a perfect forever home. Or it could be a stepping stone and an investment opportunity for you to make a move to such a place etc etc.