Nickfromwales

Horse manure. Solvent weld all day long.

I fit these, not too tall tbh. Put the SVP elsewhere? Or out horizontally at the top of a gable maybe? Done that a few times too.

If it’s not part of the network, and you T in using a compliant and recognised method, then I doubt you need to say much more; assuming you have not been told by anyone not to do so. Was nothing agreed before you bought someone’s garden off them to build in?

MCS is required to sell your excess, and you’ll have a LOT of it. You should defo consider an ASHP, as your winter generation would offset gas use. Split roof elevations mean 2 strings. You can only use so much hot water, and electricity, so where’s the maths to justify this enormous array? Asking for a friend

Only suggested, if you lost the blocks of wood. A 90° bend in the corner is 👍. @marshian makes a good point, so make the final 90° bend going into the utility a T instead, and put a cleaning eye in the redundant open end so you can ‘self clean’.

Simple question is, do you need one? Unless you’re renting the place out, you don’t “need” one, and we don’t know the arrangement you had with this person (cash / invoice), but you can get a simple inspection done and get a cert that way if you really need / want to.

If this is an installed system, the installers would come and survey this and underwrite the whole thing. They will have done this a thousand times, so unless you’re DIY’ing it the information here would maybe be of not much use to you, sorry. Are you paying contractors to supply and fit, for eg is it coming via a grant / funding?

You could also go out through the wall and mount an external flue using stand alone / secretly mounted brackets.

You just sell it on later with the WBS installed as a bonus. Just do a good job, with a good appliance, and then you’re all good. You’ll have a relatively long time to advertise / sell it at the end of the build, so I’d make life comfortable for the build and stop panicking about minor issues. Worst case, the roof can be put back ‘as was’ in a couple of hours with some plate, rivets, and CT1. Even if it knocks a couple ok £k off the resale value, who cares?! It’ll save you 20x that in the long run anyways, so is basically sacrificial in terms of cost / loss.

A PP (positive placement) gun These allow you to get the nail into each hole in the hanger accurately, at a decent pace.

Hang under the gutter and use clear cable ties to fix to the gutter clips? You can get some tension in the strings then, to stop them flapping about.

This may be worse as you’ll likely need 1/4 cube concrete pads set in to take these point loads. Load would likely be better transferred down through the walls so it’s distributed.

They’re doing a very good job. Id be happy to relax on hols whilst these guys were working for me, so that’s great news for you on yours

Granite installers should notch cut the underside of the worktop and install stainless dog ears set into resin, plus bond the sink also. Between those two measures, the sink should be plenty well fixed. Builder should 100% have supported this as a temporary install. A carpenter would very likely have offered this up as a solution. TBH, you can just fit a piece of iron on edging afterwards, once that cracked timber has been bonded and clamped to the granite.

Can you get a hoover in there and suck the debris out? Then, get some bendy straws to fit on the foam gun and pack it out with FM 330 foam. That’ll be the end of this saga then , to the top of the tiles. Then pipe insulation and job done.

If you get some compo out of them, I’ve seen a nice private plate for your car.

Keep us posted please!

Having the equipment makes a job like that a doddle. So many struggle to save plant hire costs, but that’s dangerous and hugely inefficient. Nice to see a good site setup and the progress speaks for itself.

“Stinks” of a manufacturing defect. Unit needs a forensic strip down and rebuild, and to actually see / examine every joint and junction. Probably something very simple, there’s not much to go wrong with these things.

Ah! Then no, you’ll be fine. Most appliance manufacturers will give a max height for the discharge hose to be at, when going into an upstand, so that is now deleted from the situation and a (combination) trap will be fine. I’d still move the pipework to the other side of the wall if possible.

Assuming this is a continuous piece of MDPE to the stopcock, the only place a dribble could be occurring and going unnoticed is from that ungodly stopcock which is brass compression onto the MDPE. I hate them, as the least amount of excuse you provide will result in this failing. I always go MDPE > copper via an MDPE fitting which is specific for this job. @gambo are you 1000% sure this MDPE > brass connection is 100% leak-free?

Ok! After the first bend, you are then on quite a steep incline. This is putting your washing machine (appliance) upstand quite high off the floor. Yes, you can guess what I’m going to say next….. The amount of incline in the room itself is good, just you’ve used up too much ‘fall’ in the service space. You could abandon the connection to the stack and ‘boss’ in lower down, but that’s prob worst case scenario. This needs a tweak first, to lower the pipe as it enters the utility space, to lower that upstand. Good effort though, and good on you for getting stuck in / hands dirty I’d lose the blocks that you’ve used as stand offs, and simply use 2x 45° bends to see the pipe out just before it goes through the wall. Is there any reason you’ve not run the pipe on the plain OSB wall and then just punched through exactly where the pipe meets a trap? Would save cutting the back of units / navigating around that horizontal waste pipe run in the utility.

OK!! Give us the depth you have to play with, from slab up to FFL please, as there's a lot of info but it's all a bit tricky to correlate. And why electric UFH? It's the most expensive thing you can run, and is this for supplemental heating or full-on space heating?

Get your prelims in check, and listed / costed out so you can see ‘hidden costs’ as a lot of folk skip over this, and become unprepared for paying for things when they pop up, that’s before laying a single brick btw. Who’s been mentoring you to date? Architect?

2 sides clad in insulation and windows up against those, small alu capping internally to match window frames, then just alu cappings again externally. I had the external one made up in 2 pieces, to ease fitment (and manufacturing). No pics sorry, I had departed soon after sorting designs as these took some time to manufacture, powder coat, and for the installers to then book the clients in. Once I’ve broken the back of a job for people I’m usually then off to the next one, only then staying in contact for remote assistance, such as this type of ‘last minute’ detailing and problem solving; a lot of this goes on as the design and pre-construction phases are often just skipped though sadly.