Nickfromwales

Been on a few 'long' days myself the last few weeks...... Just about everything hurts now...... Joy.

Erm..... deja-vu?

A bit of rockwool stuffed down as a plug, to stop the foam going too far down, and a squirt of FM330 = job done.

Good to see you're not bitter

100a D/C eg that's the charge current after rectification, is my guess.

No need for the inconvenience of a boxed in stub-stack. If the invert to the drains outside is <1300mm you don't need an AAV (Air Admittance Valve (aka a Durgo)), so the 110mm connection can be capped off below FFL and uncovered later in life; no need for any compromise on GIA this way Picture how the room could transform, and put hot & cold pipes in there, behind the plasterboard, in abeyance. No need to connect them and fill them with water, but defo a cheap bit of insurance that would minimise upheaval downstream. Also look to making that room it's own 32a ring main, and if going for MVHR then put a redundant run in for extract too.

No heat recovery, and a lot of cold air infiltration over the winter.

I’ve been doing these types of rooms for nearly 30 years, and I think, judging by the threshold trim, the subfloor hasn’t been overlaid with plywood or other binder board. Can you pull back the carpet and see if the tiles are, as I suspect, glued down directly to the chipboard flooring? Tiles and adhesive will be around 15mm on average. Oh, and pop down the off-license and get some of the good stuff, as this will 100% need taking up and doing again. Don’t waste any more of your beer funds on rescue products, (sorry).

Defo the least dusty option. But tbh if you just chisel with a 2kg SDS drill with a narrow chisel bit, there’s just debris but not much dust.

Yup. @Spinny If you can record cable positions, then YOU dictate to the plasterer, not the other way around!! Tell him you are fine cutting out after he’s skimmed it, as you are now all grown up and can make such choices. Bonkers?! WRT the door reveal, that’s doable re stop / start of plastering. The mess is something in your control, so just lay 2 layers of Antinox sheets in the area that needs plastering later on, taping joints with duct tape. Then put cloth dust sheets down so any wet skim gets dried out nearly immediately making it less likely to be spread about. Plasterer sounds like a clown tbh.

Local BM should be able to order similar in for you.

Chop it in half and double it up.

22mm cement board would do it nicely. Such as Link.

Oops. Read as thermalite. Been working with these for the last 3 weeks so now brain-numbed. I’ll go kneel on some pencils.

Not sure if you have a way to monitor the temps of the batteries, but trickle / slow charging is always favourable. I’d say drop the charge rate by 50% and see if that gets them topped up before 05.30. If it doesn’t, just add 5% and go again.

No need to apologise, they’re all grown ups who are just getting their 2 cents out and onto the table. Best to simply ask your chosen architect? It’s their contract that has their unique terms within, so in actuality you should already be in possession of those terms; it should be available to you from day 1, contained within their terms of business and T&C’s?

Yup. So basically you’re at a stage that I refer to as ‘drip dry’, so no point in worrying about that little bit of wet afaic. Wind-driven rain will get into every mm of available space, and capillary action can pull that along a membrane for meters and meters, so is also not truly representative of where you’re currently vulnerable to such ingress. ”Stand down red alert”

Agreed. But easy(er) to say if you’re someone using a TS as a hot water heater exchanger? The pic I shared used one, and they never ‘ran out’ of DHW, so case in point. They had more chance of running out of dynamic flow, than DHW, so I directed a TS capable of still outputting space heating whilst the boiler went full wallop doing max demand DHW without either being compromised. I put a lot of thought into that, and chose a quality gas boiler capable of <4kw when Lilly modulating, or a huge >37kw of heat energy output whenever it was necessary to ‘recharge’ the TS. I don’t think it was grotesquely oversized personally, and the client and his family were fully consulted before any prices were arrived at and kit purchased, with costs know, and expectations understood and met (actually exceeded). Some good words about perceived flow rates and what shower flow rate would (should) be acceptable, and that can bring a lot of the capacity related issues back down to earth. I had that chat and was told to ‘go large’, with the client then making their own fully informed choices. If they’d have insisted on a HP, I’d have walked away, or I’d have had a contract loaded with caveats to protect me for when disappointment kicked in. Sense prevails if the persons involved are sensible, imo.

What stage of weathertight are you?

All quite relevant, to get a practical solution “Continue….”.

Multi tool with a TC blade and a hoover = next to zero dust. Grinder = lots. Multitool will fly through it. A regular bimetal blade for slicing downwards to do the chase after cutting the side channels is deliciously simple and controllable. One hand on tool (ahem) and other on the Henry.

Wouldn’t that mean huge infiltration during winter? The problem is, the time you need the ‘benefit’ is the most detrimental time to use such a system. Retrofit of MVHR has got to be on the table at this point?

Agreed, but won't the PIV be in the attic blowing down into the open landing? Or are you suggesting blowing air from atmosphere into the bedrooms? If the former, the input air will seek out the path of least resistance, eg you can't guarantee it'll solve the bedroom issues. I have 4 kids, so am defo up for taking the £20 prize money on offer.

There are large instantaneous gas water heaters available, eg not boilers. Just zero chance of PV > DHW without some kind of cylinder.

Buy a trickle vent and see if it physically fits at the head of the window. If so, it's just a matter of drilling a series of 10mm holes along the length of the vent, and two more holes for fixing screws. If you are budget shy for new doors and windows, you could maybe install some 4mm neoprene insulation 'tape' both inside and out on the frames, then dress over these with white PVC D section 'makeup' trim, if you're happy to have a DIY improvement at least. Not much more you can do as aluminium (when old style frames which are shockingly bad for bridging cold) is horrid stuff; realistically you need to change the windows / doors etc, as you prob already know.