Nickfromwales

There’s a crazy wealth of diversity on here.

You tend to want a softer metal vs say a hardened bolt. Threaded bar is plenty good enough, maybe better go M16 even as it’s 150mm of timber to pull together.

At least then you'll have the..........cold, hard, facts lol.

The accumulator would need to be on the supply side, before any restriction were in place. Pointless (imo) putting it where you show as it's not able to "perform admirably" there tbh. I'd also T the expansion vessel off the cold inlet instead of the hot outlet, as that's a far happier life for it, if possible. And yes, adding the much uplifted volume of expansion should put this to bed afaic, even if it seems overkill to most. At first glance it may get questioned, but when you have eagle-eyed folk on here spot the 2.1 bar inlet pressure then it would immediately make sense.

If it's LED then it's going to live a long life. Take the springs off, put a few dots of water based grip fill around the ring, and put a bit of batten in for the night to hold it in place until the GF has gone off. It is what it is.

I've been on sites for a long time, my own run ones since 2007, and never had that happen. I provision leads and a couple of tranny's so as to prevent trades 'fighting' over one lead and plugging loads into one outlet. I don't leave splitters or spiders on site on purpose, to prevent this exact thing. If you leave it to fate, someone will try and set fire to something. Manage it, and be proactive against that happening......and it won't.

Temporary Builders Supply

Because the Velox system is shart and you just can't make a straight enough wall with it (also it's woodcrete so no 'webs' ).

I think you need to get a decent 230v supply over there first as last tbh. Leave 5m of slack at the house end, coiled up at your then TBS, and uncoil to move it to the room it'll reside in for eternity as the build progresses. That's just too long / adverse a run to be taking extension leads etc back/forth.

Can't see why not as long as the bends you form are long-radius.

I would. That pipe is designed to be directly buried forever and is pretty bombproof. If it is off a T after the primary stopcock it is no longer 'technically' a rising cold mains, it's just a spur, so no need to do the stopcock and non return valve etc all over again.

Oil ones blast the DHW out. Way better than gas equivalent. As you have oil on site, maybe better to pick the battles accordingly to see if you can cope on their offering for a single supply.

Did this over Velox ICF and got 0.66 ACH (as-built). Would have been more like 0.4-something if the doors and windows didn't leak so much.....

Myself, probably over-opinionated. Just seen D&D done excellently with great results enough times to be willing to defend it. And if @nod will use this in his own house and his clients 7 figure builds, then it defo isn't any form of compromise; other than, as you say, losing 15mm of GIA per wall.

Are you being held against your will to create modern-day dinosaurs by any chance?

As the crow flies plz?

I grew up around this, and would recommend this in a heartbeat. Just........get someone good.

Utter, indiscriminate, tosh.

Thanks for the info. It'll be useful to the OP.

Ye' cannea change the laws of physics, Jim. You clearly have near zero real-life experience on sites / projects that have had either / or. It is my own, isolated, opinion, that you have no clue what you are talking about. Myself and @nod have done many homes where quality, integrity, and "best effort" are at the forefront of everything we do. It's a bit of a piss-you-off to hear you dismiss this in a few sentences, to be honest. 30mm smaller? How thick do you think scratch-coat and skim is?? 5mm?

It's just you then. The water-lords have clearly decided that you should live a life of eternal H2O-based hell and damnation. There is no amount of PTFE tape that can save you, I'm afraid.

Same I use on almost every clients project, but from the Xcite range at City Electrical. Just found them to be more robust, not just the fittings and connectors, but also in terms of where I can go downstream for replacement / warranty / service etc. When we've done more sizeable and 'prestigious' projects I have always invited the client to go and buy 6 or more 'spares' so they can change a light out here and there over the next decade without fear of differing colour temperature and dispersion etc.

I drill a hole with a 16mm hole saw at an angle, very slowly and carefully, slot one of those in, and let the other one flick back as intended.

I am always a mile and a half ahead of all this. Nothing worse than getting to the plastered and painted phase and realising feck all works for the lighting layout / install. Do you have a pic of a hole you've cut out so I can understand the problem and suggest a solution?

I've used them for decades, but admittedly not for turning on/off a supply for an outside tap. @John Carroll, how many times do you turn this on/off? Seasonally? With a Frosti tap you don't need to drain or shut off for winter. Cracking little gadgets. One of it's cheaper relatives here LINK