Nickfromwales

Are the TRV’s set to 5, or ‘max’ for the purpose of testing?

TRV’s respond to room temp, not water temp?

Why plywood? I only use T&G P5 22mm standard flooring material (chipboard). Then 6mm plywood over that, glued and screwed. Then adhesive + tiles.

I 1000% get your frustrations here, but @Roger440 makes just cold-blooded, good sense; his concerns are oh-so-well founded. The issue with government backed “improvements”, is a lot of the time unsupervised, and all to often its complete and total fecking garbage. I won’t piss on the chips of anyone who holds this with high regard, but we will be here to catch them when they inevitably fall. Feed in tariff. Renewable Heating Incentive. Green Energy Whatever the feck. All bag-o-shite schemes, every one of them, invented by fcuktards to tick boxes. The only control we ( @Roger440 ) have ( has) is to not let these fund-harvesting clowns near our single most expensive, ever, assets.

Amen. I saw one crowd doing this to a perfectly good house, and I had to alert the guy I was working indoors for. When I showed him the bag-o-shite install these clowns were undertaking he asked for a meeting with their boss. He had the same IQ as a baked potato, and just stood there shrugging his shoulders. Literally, couldn’t give a feck. They walked off and on to the next, where they no doubt encountered zero questions.

Have the installers been kind enough to peel the sticker off the bottle and apply it somewhere for your information? Usually a sticker the size of a matchbox, or so.

Trestles are perfectly fine. They’ll be perfectly fine. Go to the pub.

As above. Bonding the WC pan down is my go-to. I just cut the screws down if they have decorative caps that are needed to blank off the holes, and bond those it too, for cosmetics. The floor standing vanity will be fine with just a bit more CT1 behind each side, where it meets the wall, in conjunction with whatever other proprietary fixings are stated to use in the manufacturers installation instructions. If you want any further advice for how to do that, have a search here for mine and others previous posts, or just reply here and we’ll talk you through it.

We could have crowd funded on here and bought it lol.

Let’s relegate this to the back shelf…..

Nope. That’s a terrible idea. The lower temp means the cylinder would be calling for heat from now until the year 3000….. Just don’t do it. Makes zero sense whatsoever. Just a way to make something already wonderfully simple, complicated as feck.

Unnecessary nonsense tbh. Heat pumps give the required heat to each duty, either space heating or DHW. Why would you want to slow down the reheat of the cylinder? Also, how would the heat pump choose which temp to output and when, as it would think that in DHW mode it was only servicing a cylinder. Abort!

Add another joist, sistered to that one, using a slightly smaller profile (height) timber. Then screw into that.

I’d firstly survey yourself, and see if the peak demand, with the shower being reinstated, ACTUALLY takes you over the rating of your fuse. Is it an 80a incomer (service fuse?). I think their electrician was being over zealous tbh. MCS box-tickers most prob. Most inverter heat pumps use way less power than their stated output, so I doubt you’re about to go Hiroshima 🔥 any time soon…. What he said. All apart from “pants”. I’d have said “dogshit”. Electric showers are dogshit, and a thermostatic mixer off your UVC would be so much better, and cheaper to use. Get the electric one switched to mixer if not too disruptive, particularly if it’s your daily driver.

A new chapter, vs closing the book

The wood ‘type’ should be in your architect’s spec, as I assume the builders get direction / instruction from somewhere? Hopefully it’s something hardy, like cedar. Oh; Opt 1. Black / dark version makes the house too gloomy imho.

It is very dependant on site conditions, ground permeability, water table, hydraulics etc, so no ‘one shoe fits all’ with a true basement for sure

I expect that the area of wooden floor was driven very close to the limit, previously, to get the heat into the room. Good point though. Many heads….

They’re quite ‘intelligent’ pumps, for a generic off-the-shelf solution that most suppliers can spit out with ease. That plus Grundfos are industry standard for pumps, like Hoover was for vacuum cleaners. Wilo are making some good pumps these days too.

@Gedq These can be unscrewed and automatic air vents put in their place. I bin those manual ones and always fit automatic ones to minimise maintenance etc. Buy 2 of these LINK and then these UFH rails will auto bleed themselves. The little cap on top, like the air cap on a car tire, needs to be 2 turns loose or it won’t vent, but not taken off completely. If you want to do this then reply here and we’ll talk you through it, or order them and ask a plumber to fit them for you. 15 minute job start to finish.

Don't forget to wait a few days to be sure, then add the inhibitor chemical (Fernox F1) for protection.

I've given up trying to work it out tbh, you just seem to have bad nerves from all this building malarky, and are hitting the same pic twice......or something.... Your build is going very annoyingly well. Or, annoyingly very well. You pick! Either way....Congrats to you, fantastic progress.

I think you’ll need to up the flow temp into the UFH to compensate for your new, low temp heat source. It sounds like whoever sold you the dream didn’t explain things, or survey it properly, to highlight some of the adverse effects that you could expect from switching over to a heat pump. If you up the flow rates, don’t do it to the loops servicing the tiled areas. Try the others at the increased rate and see what happens over 48hrs.

Which is crazy as not being able to hear clearly on a site is dangerous as feck. Anyone with EarPods in just zones out.

Maybe give this a rethink. Having your gas burning appliance(s) serviced annually is a very good idea, but prob leave them far away from the UFH as some are clueless.