Nickfromwales

I don’t know how many more PM’s I’m going to have to send….. I have said to not mention zones or buffers in front of @JohnMo I thought I’d reached everyone……😑

I doubt they’ll give a 💩. Warranties are for more significant things in my experience.

You have to say my name 3 times 🙄🤦‍♂️

Nope lol. They’re just lazy tossers. Looks like they’ve cheaped out on the smaller flexis, which will be a choke point when you’re looking to get the DHW cylinder heated up after use. The butterfly valves are most likely 1/4 full bore, but the flexis are questionable. If it all works, you may think “what’s the problem” but when you see the difference in heat up times for DHW when there’s a much higher flow rate, then you’ll see. There’s a big difference between hardly working and working well. The worst part is they took you for a muppet and lied to your face about insulation not being needed. Cocks.

McAlpine flexi under a top fitting bath is the norm. They’re fine, done loads without issue as they’re protected for life under there.

The floor will have already been spec’d to take a bath, and with the short span from the stud to the outside wall I doubt you’ll have any issues whatsoever. Your floor build up will spread the weight quite well too. Do you know if the posis rest on that stud wall, or simply fly over it (and there’s just a few token nails fired in to pin it together)? Best to make sure the tiler hasn’t been on the pop the night before laying the tiles, as that’ll need a very flat / level surface to sit on.

What he said.

Go to the pub. I’ll send you the money to buy the beer. Go now 🍻

Connecting things to the pipes is fine, but I’d fit a lot more staples, and make sure the pipes are full of water so they don’t have any buoyancy (and don’t want to float).

It looks like they’ve fortified the existing timbers, and one looks to have been cut out / short, so was necessary to do a good (robust) job. Odd as it should have been in your quote as it’s a significant amount of work so would have been costed for you to agree to it being done. Did you read their quote word for word?

I’ve seen some odd UFH manifold arrangements, I’m adding this to the list. Technically it’s correct, pump sucking water through the TMV and taking cooler return water to blend it down, just odd to see it set up in this order of components. Is it still working?

Mr Magic.com.

Gripfill??!! Have you been at the cooking sherry? CT1, comes off plenty easy enough if you need it to. Multisolve removes all residue.

Never. I use them as cutting templates for plasterboard and tiles, then bin them. CT1 again here, same method; wipe back CT1 and top coat of cosmetic silicone.

@markharro You’re a man of conviction, I salute you. Get 2 coats of high-opacity Matt emulsion on these and come back….to yourself. The proof, is in the pudding. Please let it be sticky toffee with custard….

Anything is possible. 5 loafs. 2 fish. You just use a craft knife to slice it away and off-she-comes.

Wall hung toilets……defo don’t need sticking to the floor. 😉. My work here is done. 🤣

Not bolting down…. If there’s bolt holes I fit the fixings with decorative cover caps with silicone, cutting the fixings short of the floor, “for display purposes only”.

It’s what I do. @Barnboy I lift the pan up on packets, drop it into clear CT1 (NOT silicone) and pull the packets out. Clean off the displaced CT1 with a load of baby wipes, cleaning it back so you can’t tell it was ever there, leaving a crevice at the bottom of the pan where it meets the floor. Use CT1 Multisolve to clean the floor. Leave to cure, and then apply cosmetic silicone to crevice.

It’s unfortunate, but the moment you turn your back it’s down to the people you chose; eg that they are able to perform admirably. This is when you find out who you chose, but as said above, often then too late to rectify and you’re left holding the baby. On a job atm where the admirable but defo didn’t happen, quite spectacularly, but now there’s a new team and some (quality) control and it’s been recovered quite quickly. When first there it was “down tools, pick up tape measures, and get the laser out BEFORE you do anything”. Found a few extra hidden faux pas, and then some, and made sure the guys got those deleted before ploughing on. You can spend more time panicking about what’s not right, vs just inputting the energy into getting it sorted and moving to the next item. @Stu84, throw a 0-10/15mm bed down and leave it to go off, then offer the blocks down in another bed, tap it all into shape, and leave to set. Then you’ll have a (level and plumb) blank canvas to work from. By the time you’re on the 3rd course you’ll have all but forgotten about this. Oh, and don’t even dream about taking a beaker to this!!!!!!!

How cold are you running the cooling?

Ask me and the good folks here. We speak from experience, which is gold dust

Too much money on double-pumping then? Plus no screed companies want to pour less than 50mm unless it's had a very expensive primer applied beforehand.

+1.

This is average, but should be for design and on-site commissioning, so if just for design it’s time to look again.