Nickfromwales

Life is full of compromises, just best to be in direct control of them when they arise. Otherwise they become ‘cosmetically acceptable’ failures…..

Send me a PM please!!!!!

Exactly what I faced on one job, and opted to not insulate externally; the design I gave the client for that featured a very generous bead of mastic to affix the aluminium to the steels, with continuous beads at foot and head to stop convection through any otherwise resultant free air space. To date, no complaints, and a far lower profile solution from the exterior aspect 👍. Compromises can be made successfully if managed meticulously, that’s the ‘gotcha’.

On a few previous clients projects, similar circumstances, I clad the steels with 20mm Compacfoam, and the client ordered the fenestration with the deductions in width made accordingly. Then I employed a designer / installer for alu cappings to be made, and RAL sprayed to colour match, and results were perfectly satisfactory. I actually preferred that to the option of dragging the steel inboard, so maybe a review would change your mind; at least put it at ease a bit anyways.

Check my PM to you plz mate Sorry for the hijack. @BotusBuild, I’ve never done a CU swap with testing first, and then giving a certificate (via one of my bonafide sub contractors), so you should have had one. If you didn’t ask then they probably did it as a ‘cash’ job and wanted to be in and out.

They could have concrete screwed some treated battens into the brickwork, and then screwed into that. There’s always a way to do a job to the best possible outcome. Or. Cut corners, grab the money, and shoot off.

Whatever’s salvageable you can keep. Just check it’s in good condition and retain it.

Here we have put OSB in as a packer, then 8x2 over that to get the timber past the edge of the steel.

Yup. Sounds like it’ll be a barrel scrape solution for that money, afaic.

Brink / Ubbink is all I’ve used in 99% of my clients builds. Zero issues. I’ve had great prices / service / design support etc from CVC Ltd (Oxon) and they have some good prices for kit on their box-shifting platform (Air-haus.co.uk). £8.5k supplied and installed for that size house is cheaper than I’d have done it for, by a LONG way. Are they quoting a single 600 unit? Or 2x 325’s?

Hi. You bolt timbers into the web, so they finish just proud of the steel. You then fix the joists to that timber, using a gas nailer firstly, to pin them, then proper joist hangers to complete. Your SE is making work for you imho, and prob still lives at home.

If 12/24v then it’s SELV (Safety Extra Low Voltage) so you could lay it in the bath and jump in safely. There are some very thin led strips out there atm, but the likelihood is you’d need deeper than standard worktops to gain a little more overhang, as a standard worktop doesn’t have sufficient real estate to do this imo.

FLIR camera to see if waters making its way around the FF loops most prob. Or feck off to the pub, and order a jumper on Prime whilst supping soothing cold beer.

Change it You know you must.

Step 1

These should have been left open by the installer. They stay ‘open for life’ so they can look after you and let any ‘air’ out.

Amen 🙏. My issue was, it was always a clients build site

If they were tight, then they weren’t doing any venting. A box has been ticked. ✅

Conclusion: You did a shit job lol. The ‘leak’ is seldom from the doughnut washer, and more often from the bolts. When did this leak? Continuously, or when flushing? If it’s a daylight issue, then please do consider fitting a light in the bathroom. Your family will thank you.

Those caps are like the ones on your car tires. They need to be ‘loose’ to work, so give them a ‘twiddle’ and see what the situation is there plz. Close them finger tight, and then open 2 full turns 720°, if unsure. Then they’ll be able to function properly and let ‘air’ out.

So, a potential service cost of £37 / 8yr period?

It’s great when you tell a non-swimmer, mid toss, that they’ve got 2 choices. “Swim or drown”. The way I had it in my head was the guts of what you’ve done were above the ceiling line, but I’m just so very proud of you right now it’s hard to mark you down. So many people on buildhub have taken their first steps. We’re like a proud parent This day is yours, young man. Top job 🏆

PMSL

Naughty step for you, for even suggesting it!! Good news, it’s still warm from @Pocster’s last visit.

Now sat in the Doghouse in Manchester, and determined to get to the bottom of a nice cold pint of Wingman, aka “Mother’s milk”. Been a long day so may have another…. 😋 First question, should have asked sooner, but what was the flow and return temps of the FF UFH before any (possible) heat hit it? Exactly the results I expected, so thanks for the feedback. Pump potential, when made divisible, is simply insufficient. GF UFH steals the lions share, ‘path of least resistance’, so the FF gets the scraps; issue here is, the FF UFH needs a lot more attention. This needs some surgery methinks. Firstly, as suggested previously, you can mess about with flow rates, however I think this will get you nowhere (sorry) and a few changes need to happen. Before surgery, the consultant in me needs to be pragmatic. That said, let’s see what we can gather before booking you in for the full, frontal lobotomy . First off, the differential of the FF flow and return are garbage, which suggests there’s a lot of airlocks occurring. 1°C suggests zero flow, tbf. Is there an automatic air vent on the FF UFH manifold? Pic plz if so (and does it work / is the cap open 2 turns?).