Nickfromwales

I'd give you a job Looks good afaic, just I prefer to solvent weld everything; as much as I can that is as the 110mm stuff I always use push fit for a bit of 'give'. I think I'd bed the joints and changes of direction with some 8:1 sand and cement haunching, and let that cure before going over, unless you were going to back-fill with concrete anyways?

Glued and screwed every damn time! 100% defo need to be screwed down before the glue cures or the board won't ever pull back down, the glue will win that fight. I use 5.0 x 50mm screws which are partially threaded, to prevent 'jacking' that a fully threaded screw promotes. No need for a pilot, as the impact will send these through and out the other side with complete ease, plus you want the meat left intact to maximise on the purchase of the screw. If you're at all worried about weathering, then just fill each screw hole with a scraper and some cheap clear silicone, seriously unnecessary imho though unless this is going to be open to the elements all winter?

Plastering will alleviate all this time / effort / prep / shimming / filling / sanding etc. If the walls not great and the boards are going on less than ‘well’, then why continue to suffer? I’ll shut up now 🙃

As you are a stand alone dwelling off the network you may struggle to get a deviation from the BCO to omit the SVP. An alternative is to have one rise on the external wall, on the side or rear where it’s not an eyesore. If you plan that as a get out of jail card, then just don’t fit the SVP, and see if they notice . AAV’s will suffice.

Roll up some cotton wool and tie on to 6lb fishing line. Then suck it through with a hoover. Then tie the fish wire to that, then use the fish wire to pull cables in. Use silicone spray and pull a dead fish wire in the same time you pull the required cables in, to make retro fitting easier.

Thanks for the comprehensive reply.

It makes me wonder, when folk will spend £5k on kitchen worktops.......£3k on a "lighting designer" (lol)...... Check yourself people, and pick your battles, please.....

The elephant in the room is the requisite for meticulous installation work ahead of filling and finishing. Constant reference to how to lightly sand the bits of filler.....but if you haven't installed the boards to adhere to this requisite then you are where you currently are; having to fill and sand an amazing amount of product in a pain-staking, long-winded process which will not yield great results. This isn't me being a dick, this is my direct experience of being on-site and watching someone pour ludicrous amounts of time and money into a failed pursuit. @Nick Laslett demonstrates an instance where understanding of the need for an eye being kept on the prep was there, the resulting install clearly excellent, and the filling and sanding minimal; from his accounts to mine........there is your balance. If your boards weren't installed to the highest standard, then you will be far from that example I fear. If so, abandon ship.

Bond down EPS 70 and then top it with Marmox. There are cheaper versions available that do the same job btw.

Gumtree.

Pretty hopeless in porcelain imo. They get red hot and have cracked tiles previously when drilling near the edge. I use them for ceramics, but only ever use diamond for porcelain.

Abandon this immediately, is my 2 cents. Spend the money on a plasterer. Better, faster, neater job, with zero stress and max sanity retention. Seriously, just stop what you’re doing and end your suffering.

These skate about and take the whole section of tile out, with the kits you have hollow drills which remove next to nothing and leave the ‘core’ to be removed.

Most good tile shops stock the wet kits btw.

Use the Rubi one I linked to? It is a guide and waters the bit as you’re drilling? If you buy the one from SFx you’ll need a hand held water bottle to keep spraying it with. Yes to screw holes only, 👌

My client in Gravenhill used FC and the guy who offered to prep and sand on day rate was there forever, and went through about 5 or 6 different sanding machines.

Do yourself a huge favour, and get it skimmed. The pain of doing Fermacell is excruciating, and the walls show the areas you’ve sanded unless you then skim them over with a finer, more synthetic filler such as Tupret. You have my sympathy if you’re sanding a whole house of this.

I fitted 3 of the earlier units in one large multi-bathroom etc (£4m) house and they just dropped like flies. SA changed them for the “new and improved” unit, and they then snuffed it one at a time. Terrible build quality, you’ll find pics I posted on here. I worked directly for SA for a couple of years, and my sole purpose was going to disgruntled clients to be shouted at because of the lack of communication etc. As the fella in charge is a social media hog it appears people on BuildHub get suspiciously good levels of service, but that’s not been the case offline I assure you, in my direct experience. One client got refused an exchange as they said it was a ‘non standard’ installation, the laugh was that they approved my design prior to them going in, ffs 🤦‍♂️ The only true measure you can really get of these is by speaking to installers (who want the kill) or reading here (and not realising it is pure marketing BS that they react immediately and “go the extra mile”). They didn’t for a poor lady who was washing her hair in the kitchen sink for 13 weeks…….

Erm….how much were you quoted for an UVC to be installed?? Sunamp / Thermino’s supplied and fitted are absolutely insane money. Spoke to a guy the other day who got billed £7k for a 9 (210) unit.

When you get through the tile you need to poke back through the drill bit to get the pellet of tile out, before drilling the next hole. When you get through the tile, stop. You can screw through the backer board and the ply for additional purchase.

+1 https://www.amazon.co.uk/RUBI-4927-Easygres-Accessories-Metallic/dp/B00A3SDNK8/ref=asc_df_B00A3SDNK8?mcid=974bd86e521831afbdb57ac519b0afc3&th=1&psc=1&hvocijid=14815439965987008970-B00A3SDNK8-&hvexpln=74&tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=696285193871&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14815439965987008970&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9046619&hvtargid=pla-2281435176618&psc=1&gad_source=1

Whoa! If it went up as is, then it will come back down as is. You just need to get it facing down with the springs spread apart and it’ll just need to be pulled down with maybe a long nose pliers, or maybe 2 of them. Twist it slightly back and forth (not rotating it as much as a 1/4 turn, less should suffice) and keep at it. Wear eye protection obvs. If you damage the ceiling where the pliers are, which you will, then a bit of Tupret filler from Screwfix will sort that out.

Sunamp. #onborrowedtime

Anybody who specs silicone for this should be shot on sight. Fundamental sealing such as this need to be done with a non-silicone mastic, such as a Sika product or something like CT1.

I'm into double-digits.....and the first number isn't a 1.