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Nickfromwales

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  1. Nickfromwales
    You may benefit from using a low expansion ( LE ) foam. Don't forget to have some solvent gun cleaner to hand to clean any wet foam / overspill off. Do that immediately if required. Mask sensitive areas as the foam can expand and adhere to adjacent surfaces. Very hard to impossible to clean off certain things .
  2. Nickfromwales
    You'll have 5mm of play in the waste etc. "You can do it Deeds!"
  3. Nickfromwales
    2 birds 1 stone
  4. Nickfromwales
    I could do with some fire wood. Just saying.
  5. Nickfromwales
    Glad I quoted you £50 a tile now. Think I dodged a bullet there ??
  6. Nickfromwales
    It would have been an EU regulated fitting so you just bin the restrictor and replace it with a normal rubber washer, if required. Try taking a modern mixer tap spout apart and see how many different grade gauzes there are and how much they reduced the flow rate. They aerate the water too so it looks like there's more coming out, but when you fill a glass you see how little water is actually coming out. Fear not, Brexit wil take care of that .
  7. Nickfromwales
    Cut a bit of MDF and use that as a baffle until your ready. If you part tile you risk chipping the edges of the last row where they're exposed.
  8. Nickfromwales
    She wasn't my wife Or the tilers.
  9. Nickfromwales
    Good to see you went with the DITRA mat. The job I was on a while back ( oil heating and hot water ) had the builder and his son doing a stand up job of fitting 900x900x20mm porcelain. Cuts were with a wet fed Stihl petrol disc as nothing else would touch it. I took the opportunity to 'test drive' my Rubi 900mm scribe and snap cutter as it states up to 900mm tiles at 20mm thick. Got 850mm of ot to cut straight but the last 50mm curved off. Probably down to the wrong wheel tbh, but not bad going for a £370 tile cutter I thought They laid them perfect and grouted with a like coloured grout. The wife walked in at the end of the day and just said "I don't like the grout colour, can you take it out and use a different colour?". I felt for those guys that day, grouting is a pita, but taking it out is even worse ( without damaging £18k worth of tiles that was ). Id have said "give it a few years luv, the colour will grow on you"
  10. Nickfromwales
    Nothing better than eating your words Got the tee shirt
  11. Nickfromwales
    If im only tiling the shower area I will set the tiles to finish dead on the outside edge of the shower enclosure profile. Then I'll either put a quadrant or a square trim and the plaster / paint gets cut into that. The trim is on display, but the polished chrome ones look part of the shower cubicle, until you get to the point where the cubicle runs out and you have a deficit to the ceiling ( if going full height ). Quite hard to comment further without some pics of / links to your chosen setup . Feel free to post the info if easier ( if your still at the 'hypothetical' stage )
  12. Nickfromwales
    This one? Does away with exposed pipe work aka no freeze risk
  13. Nickfromwales
    The jobs yours Note : When you 'call' a tee fitting you say the straight ends first then the centre Eg a tee that sits in 22mm vertically rising pipe work that has a 15mn spur coming out horizontally would be a 22x22x15 tee Just saying
  14. Nickfromwales
    Ttfn.
  15. Nickfromwales
    With one of these. Don't forget the insert.
  16. Nickfromwales
    Most PRV's are factory set at either 3 or 3.5bar. If you have over that ( static ) then I'd run at around 4 bar as that makes quite a difference to the flow rate. Only noticeable if there is say 5-6 bar incoming.
  17. Nickfromwales
    New tiling thread started to keep this on topic.
  18. Nickfromwales
    @Barney12 Larger tiles won't follow wonky walls. 6 and two 3's tbh as I find it's quicker and better with large format tiles but I've been doing this for around 23 years so I would say that ;). You need to identify the highest point on the wall and make sure there is enough adhesive behind the ones at the lowest point to ensure the wall will be flat. Off to the grindstone now, post some questions and I'll pick this up later
  19. Nickfromwales
    Carrying on from here
  20. Nickfromwales
    A little boxing in at the side of that cloak wc and IMO that's a great place for the stopcock and PRV to reside long term. . Can you take the outside tap from there too? I'd recommend doing that even if it puts the OT in a less convenient position. Reason being is that the tap will have full bore mains BEFORE the PRV, and leave the shower etc less affected from the OT being used. If possible..... 25mm mdpe to 22mm brass stopcock. ( if you use mdpe stopcock you'll need another fitting ( internal reducing set ) to get to copper and you'll not be able to solder right next to it as it's nylon / rubber etc ). 22x22x15mm ( centre ) tee picking up the loo and outside tap. 22mm PRV. 22x22x15 ( centre ) tee for 15mm Drain-off cock. 22x15mm reducer feeding into existing 15mm drop. ( don't forget to get a pressure gauge with the PRV so you can calibrate / reset at maintenance intervals / one-glance check for correct function ).
  21. Nickfromwales
    600x300 wall 450x450 floor The camera adds 10lbs
  22. Nickfromwales
    I'm easily led
  23. Nickfromwales
  24. Nickfromwales
    Both tank fed then No problem there then, and no need for NRV's. Just link out if / when you upgrade to an UVC.
  25. Nickfromwales
    Sds drills aren't supposed to be used for core drilling That's a recipe for a dead drill. Ask me how many I've done in because I was too lazy to set up my diamond drill. . Better still......don't. Why are you using a TCT core drill bit instead of diamond? And @PeterW, that TCT drill 100% requires hammer action, that's how it works. The drill for coring out with a TCT bit needs to be a slow turning low geared drill with a heavy hammer action. A standard sds drill will be too fast and not hard enough on the hammer. Ask your hire centre and they'll recommend a drill to suit. Get extension bars and drill from one side only. If you try and join up from inside out, even with a pilot, you'll be surprised at how far out it'll be. Trying to re-align / ream that right is pure punishment and a royal pita, again, ask me how I know. Fwiw I'd just hire a good diamond ( not TCT core ) bit and accompanying diamond drill set and it'll fly through in one clean operation. If your sds is slipping now, it'll be in the bin at the end of this job.
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