Nickfromwales

Once you get into the highways, don't expect much cheaper. They have to do EVERYTHING by the book, and it gets inspected so it can be adopted. In Leicester we had to dig down at the pavement 2m and drop in pre-cast 900mm concrete rings with all the man-safe and public safe guidelines to follow. Closure plates of x dimension so a man couldn't fall down there, foot-pegs, immaculate benching, and all sorts. It's a major headache, so if someone quotes for this then sit down with them and break some bread. It is NOT going to be cheap.

OK. What's provoked the question? Have you been asked / told to provide anything, or is this a 'pre-worry' only? Most trades salivate over a splendid tool collection, with most having all available gadgets that save them time / money and max profitability. If they ask you for plant, like heavy SDS max breakers or petrol disc cutters (and blades) then this is perfectly normal. Festoon lighting, a 100v transformer and leads etc, plus first aid and eyewash stations is down to you. You'll be expected to offer some oil for the cogs, but not to feed and burp them. Read the small print in quotes; if there isn't any then ask why.

All modern traps are "top" or "self" cleaning, which means you don't need access to anything other than the basket and trap that you get to from above.

Post back here when you go to do this and we can advise on methodology; you don't want to open a can of worms by disturbing the boards either side etc

It's supposed to be rodable outside, or inside, if solids are present (food waste), but if this is a basin, then you can likely get a deviation from the BCO (if there's one to pacify?).

Sounding better with each sentence. Great to hear you've done the proper due diligence of "prove it". 3G is a good option if noise from roads or neighbours is a consideration, but other than that I think 2G is suffice for most.

Get it chased in, and low access threshold as possible. The riser kits are horrible, and an absolute last resort.

The new team are providing a heck of a lot more for £12k ?! What doors and windows? 1G?

Current MBC PH TF project is all Norrsken, and they are all going to be completely off the slab and atop the EPS with 20mm of (Compacfoam) CF200 set in situ to take the loads (biggest slider is <4m iirc). Same on last few with raft founds (Rational and Velfac) with zero issues tbh. I just asked the installers to go all-in on the side and head brackets, and made sure the CF or Bosig is set down very robustly. Threshold can be strapped too if needed, but by the time these are set down onto foam and CT1/other, the sheer weight stops these things from moving about at all.

Are you making the house airtight, throughout? Need to understand where exactly you intend to stop and start any membranes. If you're going belt & braces, then the ducts should lay on the plasterboard between joists, packed with insulation, with more insulation on top open to the cold attic. Any membrane should be underneath the joists, as with all the cables etc above it'll be a pig to detail. Going to need some attention to details here, and a lot of time and patience. Is this part of a major refurb?

Only ever done DHW in 28mm, but haven't used a cylinder smaller than 300L for a good few years.

RIP.

Drill a deeper hole and set some threaded 4mm or 5mm threaded bar in with resin. Then a nut and washer to lock it there forever. I'd use stainless, but do not over-tighten it.

You just need a 40mm one under the sink, after the trap. The gurgling is worse when you use a 'combination' aka 'appliance' trap, with the short spigot to push the appliance discharge hose on to. The issue is, these connect before the trapped water and are therefore glugging away directly under the plughole and entirely audible to the room. Combat this by installing dedicated bottle or P traps for the 1 or 1.5 bowl(s), and additional dedicated washing machine upstand type traps for the appliances. The tiny bit of noise stays in the under-sink cupboards then.

If you’re bringing the front door further out then you’re opening up the heated envelope, so it’ll all need to be insulated, floors and walls, to comply with regs. If you leave the door where it is and make a cold porch then next to nothing to worry about. Re lintel, depends if this is notifiable work and they want a footing or not.

No AAV’s needed for ground floor fixtures if the invert is less than 1300mm. The AAV’s relieve vacuum caused by flush water dropping at speed, but at such short drops this doesn’t become an issue at all. Saves annoying / ugly boxing in and the need for access to the 110mm AAV’s. Only 1x SVP needed, and you can reduce this to 3” and run it externally, like a faux rainwater down-pipe, if you don’t want to breach the roof at all. Defo no need for multiple SVP’s!

Never give up. “All pipes located in areas where subsequent inspection will be difficult or impracticable should be pressure tested before being concealed.” So it is covering every base, and open to interpretation, as always. Whenever bcos have been on site they’ve only ever cared about fittings being accessible (as in not buried in concrete / screed etc), and never about pipe. I challenge, show sensible management of risks, they say carry on. Look at the amount of UFH pipe in slabs and zero issues there. I only really insulate (9mm wall) when in slab to protect the pipes during the construction phase, leaving the insulation above ground as a sacrificial cover.

Dangerous territory sometimes, plus "he who pays the piper calls the tune", and that's exactly how it should be if you are competent to dictate (but also are someone who will take ownership of pushing for a bad choice and then having to pay to correct later without blaming anyone........dealing with this currently and it's a major piss-you-off)

Not needed as it refers largely, if not entirely, to fittings. No fittings = common sense can prevail. Probably spent more time typing this than installing 2 pairs of both solutions though, lol. Self-building at it's best (worst?), eg set fire to £500 worth of time solving a £300 problem. Then multiply!!

If they're not going through stupidly acute bends then yes, but you'd probably have to pull both out and feed both back in again unless its a big duct. They'll not need changing out in our lifetimes.......

It's a bit like PVA, and the floors, or any other flat surfaces stay very tacky for a few days. The screed was like the sticky carpets in a rough pub for days, but I was pleasantly surprised at how there was no 'overspray' on the vertical surfaces at all.

That's more or less cosmetics tbf, if considering chasing a burst pipe. Most issues are with failed joints. 99.9% of failures there are installer error, the other down to a bad o-ring or similar manufacturing defect. This is the joy of radial plumbing, as the dozens of buried (enclosed) joints is near zero.

@Dreadnaught may know one?

Both. All hope just got dashed. News-flash, wood absorbs moisture.......... Can't wait for the 20mm gaps when it dries out in the summer......... Will be like a saloon door in the wild west then. Builder gave a full refund so he could walk away without any damage to his reputation. Surprised he didn't garnish it with a credit. Please......... nobody 'like' this post, thanks. @-rick- you sir are a legend, god bless you and all who sail in you.

Embedded means when you cannot get to them afterwards without destruction of property (kinda thing). I could send you the regs, but it's late and I can't be arsed to write my version. You'll not be turned by simple folk such as myself, so barrier it is.