Nickfromwales

Without a full topological survey of the entire area, it's impossible to advise. Some idea on possible permeability further down may offer a solution, but there is just not enough info here to even have a stab at it, sorry.

You'll probably be his only fan.......

Make sure the door to the bathroom has either a transfer grille, or an 8-10mm undercut on the bottom of the door, to let air in at the same volume that the extractor wants to remove it. Overrun timer is a must, my bathroom fan runs for 30-40 mins after each activation, to completely remove any moisture; it was shite at first, then I realised I'd no air coming in to the room, so chopped 10mm off the bottom of the door and then the magic happened. I'm always rushed doing any work in my own house so often don't see the woods for the trees.

Then it's not a problem.

You'd still need to set out the whole floor, to get the joints / lines to marry up? Not seen the pattern or style, so it's difficult for me to reply 100%.

I usually cut a strip of self adhesive neoprene (20mm thick) along the lower rear of the unit, so when it top hangs and the bottom falls back against the wall it is on to something soft. A slice of pipe insulation will suffice, but if you're happy then no need to do anything further. Thanks for updating the thread

A couple of oscillating desk fans left on to blow across the floor will help a lot. LVT is usually click lock, so you can’t randomly pre-insert sections, this needs to all go down in one hit.

It'll have to be hand picked-apart, so will be time-consuming and at the higher cost level for sure. Not sure about DIY as you'd need to be insured for all eventualities. What's access like for grab trucks to stop and load? Typically these would need 15 mins on site to pick up a full load, possibly blocking the road and needing a few people on traffic management, and to reduce costs you would likely need to segregate waste / spoil / inert hardcore etc vs mixed loads. You can use skips, but you'd need parking space for 2 skips per 24hrs, and get them collected and swapped out for new ones at the end of each day, say 4-4:30pm to miss school and 5pm rush hour, and folk coming home from work etc. You need a gang on site for 2 weeks, semi-skilled, probably a general builder and his skivvies, and drop it floor by floor; roof covering off and gone via a skip(s), then timberwork of roof down, same, then fold the gables in, same, then pull the 1st floor walls in on themselves, same, and so on. Damage to neighbouring properties is the biggy, so you'd need PWA's in place and scaffold with timber barriers to stop falling object debris from causing personal injury, the whole 9 yards. Whole site will need to be fully wrapped in scaff with sheeting, one guy on the hose pipe all day long to control dust, then also you need to prevent access by kids etc....list goes on. May be cheaper to get the same contractor doing the grounds and new founds to price you turnkey (demo and founds) same I am about to do for another new client (demo and new replacement dwelling), as value-engineering is difficult when piecemealing a project out and having multiples of contracts done in isolation; more meat on the bone, the lower the cost etc.

Crossed with @torre, same idea!

Narrower, longer rectangular tray and enclosure? Come right down to meet the towel rad; leave 150mm gap. That would generate more space opposite the WC. What’s the width of the enclosure atm?

If the gaps exceed 600mm add 2 pieces as shown.

Diagram B every time 👌.

My mate (screeder) and his boys lay dry screed as good as liquid, often better. You can almost paint the floor after he’s done his bit. Benefit of dry screed is placement, as it stays where you ‘put’ it, whereas leveller or liquids want to equalise across the area. If you have multiple different openings this can be of benefit if they're not all matching perfectly.

You’ll actually need less room than you think. Would be a simpler solution too. I’ll now say anything to avoid me having to do an ‘emergency callout’…..

Yes. No choice at that length / width. Used a guy who flies through these jobs, with better knees than me.

The above was 140m2 L-shape raft, no mat used and no expansion cuts / joints at thresholds. Zero movement at these low temps.

A pic of some we laid on a job, entire ground floor done, bar the lobby / hallway, to harmonise with the oak we used throughout. Not the best pic but one where light is on it. Darker grout may have been better, but that's the clients shout not mine. 1200x200mm iirc.

Prob best to add that eBay have upped their game these days; stuff I’ve sold recently has had to have been received by the buyer before they released the funds (~48-72hrs later!!), giving the buyer time to check that what they received matches the sellers description etc etc. If you buy tools then get them tested in this grace period, or don’t moan that you didn’t

One time use only!!!!!

You’re going to be bitterly disappointed when this works really well and doesn’t block. Lol.

I've bought a few used tools off eBay, from trusted sellers, and my "previously loved" 18v Makita recip saw has been in my possession for north of 6 years, and, as of yesterday, is still kicking like a mule. Message the seller, stating that you want the honest and complete appraisal of the item for sale. If they reply and say it's kosher, then proceed; then you have written evidence for recourse.

He would have been reversing his wanker-mobile out of the driveway at max power if he said this to me. What a dickhead!!!!!!!!! I think you are saying you fear the repercussions....? I once pulled one private BCO aside at a job on a sizeable and TV-famous site in Oxford, and told him directly that I would recommend the clients sue him for the expense of his unwarranted and bullshit 'frivolities'......... He left, and was immediately replaced with a higher 'partner'. He subsequently got the same "feck you" as his protégé. The clients were terrified they would then get 'repercussions', and I said it would be fine. It was fine.

If I couldn't give good advice, I would give you zero advice. I am on a 3 weekly rota for removing 8" long horse tails from my bath (shower over) plughole; 2 teenage girls with hair down their backs, and my plugholes...... Plumb as above, less any "access", and if that pipe blocks I will come there personally, FOC, and sort it. Don't get lost in this; try this bit of advice instead: Tell your better half to chuck some glad-rags on, and just head out to the local for some wine & dine. You'll thank me afterwards. 🙂. Life is too short, let the errant turds fight amongst themselves!

If it’s all boxed in, what is the (real life) point in bothering? I’ve a much more convoluted arrangement that I buried into the floor(s) of my bathroom. 9 years of 2 adults, 4 kids, and everything you could ‘throw at it’, never a moments trouble. How many toilet blockages have you had in the last 20+ years? And not the U bend of the WC pan, I mean in the pipework from the pan to the sewers…?

These things just don’t block; the flush velocity for the first 3-5m of pipe run is quite suffice to shift U571 along to its final destination.