Nickfromwales

Nonsense argument. 🤦‍♂️. ”Disabled visitable”, “Disabled adaptable”, or “Disabled persons home”? Do you expect a wheelchair bound visitor to your home to be able to reach your oven isolator? A disabled persons home would be built around their own, stated, specific needs, such as @Benpointer. Apologies for terminology, I’m never sure if I should be saying “less-abled” or other. If the home owner is 5’ tall, the electrician should suggest things to suit their stature, much as this week I have asked my (non 5’ tall) clients if they’d like to accept my suggestion that we raise the vanity units by 30mm to suit their ‘tallness’. If you told said 5-foot nothing lady she doesn’t need wall units in her kitchen because she’ll never be able to reach them, I’d expect her to punch you in the bollocks, without bending down, and then go get a step stool out for you to sit on until the pain subsided. .

I’ll be brutal, apologies in advance, but you need to accept that you can’t cut out necessary steps or avoid processes / associated costs. What you ‘wanted’ is perhaps unachievable, unless you become the master of all and DIY this single-handedly, a-la @Russell griffiths , but the side effect is then how long it then takes you to do these things. Saves money, but costs time. A guy I worked for many moons ago told me “short cuts take 3 times longer and always cost you more in the long run”. He was correct.

I doubt you’ll have such fraying, as the cuts will be from a sharp blade. If you told them to use up 5m and have the rip in the bay then ok, but if you didn’t vocalise this then you can’t add that as a term retrospectively.

900 - 930mm to top of worktop, then another 450mm to the underside of the bottom shelf of the wall unit. So not very tall

Nope, just you’re misinterpreting what they’re saying. It gets “finished” by the dapple bar, and that is not ‘perfect’, but is as near to ‘shit hot’ as you’ll ever be getting. FYI, power floating also goes seriously wrong if the person using it is a numpty. You’re not going to get anything like you’re expecting, so realign yourself with whats to be expected in reality, as it’ll need ‘refinishing’ no matter what you put down; unless Jesus is on the bullfloat.

MBC do it for every client in their passive rafts, unless someone says they are going to rub their arms to keep warm…… You’ll need some smoothing, so tile adhesive if tiling, and self levelling / smoothing compound if anything else. Nothing will go directly on to a newly laid slab, that’s just wishful thinking. Current MBC one, great guys, SCC:

I guess the M&E spec should have been tighter? Did you tell him to fit manifolds with isolators?

Yup. I usually discuss the fundamentals before the construction phase, eg plant rooms / location of CU / 1ph or 3ph etc and do a basic list of circuits + equipment for getting the connection criteria prepped for the DNO application. Then, once the sub and super structure are complete we have the next chats for the finer details; by that stage I usually have some provisional design freezes in place for kitchens / bathrooms etc and make suggestions as to ‘what goes where’. Much more sensible to do that once there’s a home to walk about in, and stuff almost always changes when it’s not on a screen anymore. Good trades are hard to find, but they are out there, they just always need booking in 3 months in advance!

I'm with you if it saves the cost of "fixing this", but a PITA if @Mr Blobby needs to isolate 1 room. @Mr Blobby Assuming these don't have isolators means your plumbers have installed isolators at each termination point; where this is possible eg kitchen / utility / basins / behind bath panels for bath & showers?

Keep asking questions here The most stupid questions, are the ones you didn't ask us Help is here by the bucketload, so measure twice, cut once!!!!

Amazon do some cheap digital ones, but then you are replacing the batteries periodically. The stock ones that come with the manifolds are pretty accurate, but not like an IR thermometer etc; #manageyourexpectations

Turn the fan speed down a lot lower, and try again.

Location of isolators is wide open, and only stubborn electricians would try to polish their sheriffs badge over this tbh. These are there ONLY for localised disconnection, and not for safety etc. Sounds like either a lack of education or dick-swinging went on there. If a sparky told me these were going next to the CU, he'd be going...................on the next bus. As above, in units / cupboards immediately adjacent is my go-to solution; so put the hob one in the island. Ask your spark to connect the hob with some HO5 flex and leave enough length to completely remove the hob and set it aside on the island, upside down, for future-proofing. So, brain-dead then. Off to the side and up very high is the order of the day. The lack of GAF or joined-up thinking with trades still astounds me. That's what keeps me in a job, so, long live the muppets......

What appliances are in the island? Hob I assume? Your designer is spot on, in getting rid of the wall-warts, I always hide these under an adjacent cupboard / unit, Fugly on a good day imho. However, where you need to push back is, the location; have the hob isolator under the island / hob, and the oven isolators in the adjacent units.

They just lay the flooring slightly under, and then your skirting sits on top?

Nope. Needs a building control application first, with support from an architect or architectural technician (the latter will be cheaper and simpler). Then, you reach out to a few 5-6 reputable local builders for estimates / quotes etc and come back here with the results for us to see who's good / bad / ugly. ONLY use a builder who will take you to other jobs, let you meet other customers, and avoid the cheapest quotes!

Ola. From the stopcock to the new UVC you need 22mm pipework, allowing the supply to the cylinder pressure reducing valve (Inlet Control Group) to be unaffected by other cold mains draw off's aka "cold mains priority". Alter the house plumbing to have things like the dishwasher and washing machine fed off the 22mm cold mains, T'd off in 15mm as close to the stopcock as is possible. Do NOT take these off the balanced cold outlet at the UVC!! At the control group you get balanced (3 bar pressure controlled) feeds to the cold input of the UVC, which becomes your 'hot out', and a balanced cold draw of to give you balanced hot & cold supplies to mixer devices; showers / monoblock taps etc. You cannot have the raw cold mains on one side of a mixer / monoblock and then the balanced hot, as you can get cold forcing its way back to the UVC and damaging it (backflow). This is all in the G3 installation guidelines with every UVC sold in the UK. It's at the control group that you can get starved of flow and pressure. Off the top of the UVC you can take a hep2o 15mm pushfit line directly to the shower for hot, and same for cold from the control group, and then you will have long radii bends vs 90's, but then also zero joints on the way there. The hep2o inserts are very thin, stainless liners, so flow doesn't get strangled like it can with other systems using thick plastic inserts. You can put these alongside one another and instantly see the difference. You can convert to copper at the shower, or use hep2o all the way, just let us know what you have / are going to have, and we'll advise accordingly as to how to best terminate it. FYI I use hep2o in every job, and my typical projects run from just under to well over 7 figures. Never had a single issue, other than an odd "Friday" fitting that I changed on the same day. For your cylinder size, go 210-250L if on gas, or 250-300L if on an ASHP. Better for everything to be storing more water at a lower temp for the same performance, imho. With gas you'll be fine for recovery / guest use, plus you'll be able to turn the immersion on for any time you are really under duress.

Oddly you'd think these would be on par, but the radial seems to offer much less of an issue here from my direct experience. I am overly meticulous with my MVHR specifications, as I need to stand by the promises I make to my clients as to how well (and silently) it will perform. One of the biggest problems with MVHR is bean-counting, and not allowing a good bit of headroom resulting in operational fan speeds of well under 50% of the unit capacity. Try lowering the fan speed and work from the bottom > up, and aim for less than 0.5 ACH at trickle. How many m2 is the dwelling?

If it’s good enough for everyone in the med, then they should be plenty good enough here.

Post a pic to see if the manifold has 1/4” pickets to take some friction fit ones which just push in. Or get some of these: https://www.bes.co.uk/clip-on-pipe-thermometer-63mm-22147/

The mention of black was a case / point, my apologies for not being clearer, but you seem to have been promised something quite specific and have received something ‘different’. That is now a case for you and the supplier, and if the sample you ordered from is completely different to what you have received, and this wasn’t caveated in their small-print, get chasing after them to supply the correct materials; and the cost to swap them over. A shame as it looks like you have found a very neat and conscientious roofer to do the work.

I made this in a week, which works well for a freestanding solar pergola / carport. Used to take it on the weekend shows, and there was lots of interest in a timber offering tbf.

I assume this is a series system vs radial? Do you have the same number of supply outlets as extract? The outlets closet to the unit need to be strangled back, to allow airflow to eventually arrive at the very furthest ones, and this makes them audible / noisy; another con / caveat when deciding between series and radial. Radial for me every time, too many fleas with the series dog. . No need for cross-talk elimination (more £££) either then. If the system design has balanced the number of in vs out then are you doing this with doors open. Have you done the undercuts on the bottoms of all internal (vented) spaces?

Dead man walking lol.

Couldn't agree more, which is why we purchased / requested multiple samples of EVERY exterior material before the concrete was poured, laid them out to compare the actual products, cherry-picked the options that worked and binned the ones that didn’t pass muster. The concrete was poured 16th March 2026 and all this was buttoned up and ordered before the end of 2025, trades vetted and selected. Client had a 4’ sample board made up in the site office after initial choices became a design freeze, with all the materials then fixed onto it to see the real items as they will be, for zero ambiguity or disappointment. For completeness, I have never seen a “black” concrete tile, as none exist afaik, plus anything that dark just gets lighter with weathering; taking you back to my above point of not staring at it for too long, as whether it’s then or now, they’ll get lighter eg to the shade / colour you have. Those should stay pretty much as is btw.