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Everything posted by Nickfromwales
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Sealant externally around windows - Silicone Render
Nickfromwales replied to Jothetaxi's topic in Windows & Glazing
Two entirely different things! The weather sealing is fundamental, so absolutely should have been done. They (or you) can now use a clear UV stable mastic to do this, or employ a "mastic man" who will not come with fat thumbs and make a mess of this in anger. If the work is offered up as snagging, state before work commences that you don't want the sealant looking like Ray Charles did it. -
I'll get my coat.......
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People will just be plugging these in with near zero GAF though, I expect.
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Quite interesting! Thanks for that.
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Ah! How does it then not electrocute the poor sole holding the pins of the plug?
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Cellulose insulation at velux windows - problem
Nickfromwales replied to Dunc's topic in Heat Insulation
Erm....expense? A few £10's at most. It's a totally different foam, which will be void of honeycombing etc, so buy cheaper foam if you wish, but "seriously!?". -
He'll be dead from worry before the concrete has set! An extra 200mm of concrete will have zero impact here. Mountain vs molehill. I dread to think what'll happen when you have to choose paint
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Cellulose insulation at velux windows - problem
Nickfromwales replied to Dunc's topic in Heat Insulation
Drill a dozen 6mm holes and pump it full of "PIR in a can", eg Illbruck foam <20 mins per window, job done -
25mm it is!
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I saw volumetric being poured at a project in Ilford. That was for a technical raft foundation with stepped outer toes, crazy complicated. Seemed to be a very good solution as calculating the volume required for that job would have been crystal ball o’clock.
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The 4th wagon of SCC was a lot thicker on the last one, and the guys on the dapple bar were sweating their arses off getting it to finish up. SCC starts to cure bloody fast!
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I've just spec'd a 16mm for 38m run off a 50a breaker at 32a assumed load (with cable direct buried). Circa 5v drop iirc. 25mm is big, but depends on what you're running, and for the above I left headroom over an EV charger to supply power and lighting to a man-shed.
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Chill out, for fecks sake!!!!!!! It'll be golden, just let the magic happen.
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I think some rather messed up sequencing is afoot here tbh. I've never had a single issue and have used Ubbink for as long as I can remember. Only time I abandoned them was for a very steep roof on a project near Melton Mowbray where Nick from CVC got me some bespoke lead cowls made up to fit into the Ubbink downfacing 'female' bit. Worked a charm. Not a pork pie in sight Norm for us is to install the flashing and terminal with the roofers, then once weathertight the MVHR unit goes in, and we hook up?
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The sequence for installing the Ubbink ones is correct, as the rain falls down the outer edge it steps out (where the final part hits the make part of the flashing) to give a robust weathertight seal. This job is an MBC PH TF with 400mm roof void. I just extended the foam ducting before installing these, then made everything off inside the attic plant room below. Im not sure what your exact issue is, as I don’t assume you’ll need the MVHR running before your roof is finished? You just lift the terminal out of the flashing and then install it, and if you need weathertight for a few weeks or months (or years ) you just drop the terminal back in and mechanically fix it in place.
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If the cost is low to do so, then yes.
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Still only sorts any leaks behind the skirting boards, and none in the remainder of the fabric of the house. Taking the skirting off and sockets out is still two knives vs a bullet.
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No. You have a very good option available to you, via AeroBarrier UK. The caveat is you’d have to buy shares in 3M for the amount of masking and taping up you’d need to do. IF you 100% want to do this, then this is your only sensible route. Ask them to quote, based on M2, and if you can swallow that then I’ll tell you what you’ll need to do to prep for the day of ‘the treatment’.
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That’s just bringing a knife to a gunfight though.
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As built airtightness test is required for b regs sign off. Go directly to the BCO and ask for the test results which ‘they must have had presented to them’….. Prob be a lot of squirming from anyone you approach, but I’d go directly to the BCO and start there.
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Blanked 110mm pipe located on self build plot
Nickfromwales replied to Saints1's topic in Waste & Sewerage
Would probably still need attenuation for when the pond is full?!? -
Go to split tape for (external) inside corners?
Nickfromwales replied to Alan Ambrose's topic in Timber Frame
Loads of threads / content on here This one specifically mentions the cost effective split tape -
It’s not fear, it’s fact-based industry feedback that drives my comments. The foils micro-fracture over time, and that starts the process of degradation. Solarwatt stated (iirc) <0.5% degradation per annum and that was on the cell itself, as the cell and its connecting metals are hermetically sealed; this is largely the job of the foil in a glass / foil panel. Your 1982 panel is quite rare, I’d say nearly unique! Defo not a Friday panel if it’s suffered zero degradation in over 40 years.
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Amen. If, whilst a room full of people are turning a drama into a crisis, you can’t tell everyone to be quiet and take control, then the jobs doomed. The number of times I’ve been brought in for “disaster” management (by accident) is insane; I mean I wasn’t there to do this but I simply spotted a major feck up that everyone was oblivious to and pointed it out to the clients, who showed the ‘builders’, both of whom then asked me how the hell can it be put right?? I firstly point them back to the architect and SE, who both either ignored the problem or failed to spot it (whilst the job was on a screen), and they usually just shrug their shoulders or try to blame someone else. Then I sort it, and the world continues to revolve. After one house was mid-construction (ICF) I had to create 3 plant rooms out of thin air, and both architect and SE were as much help as a deaf mute. SE was utterly obtuse to be honest, a completely unhelpful cock. Shan’t be passing his details on anytime soon…. 👎 This is why some people manage or consult, some people draw things but cannot build them, and others hit things until they fit. Opportunities to save money, value-engineer, make improvements without significant investment etc can only be done at the pre-construction level, so getting good advice very early on is priceless. Also very important to employ the “two heads are better than one” method, and never be afraid to ask someone to look at what you’re looking at, for a simple second opinion; very simple and effective for times where you can be spinning one plate too many and be missing the trees and the woods. @flanagaj is now bringing in the troops to support with the pour, and after the dust has settled I’d bet a round of drinks it’ll be agreed that discussing it here first, and acting on good advice, was indeed the right thing to do. Recently a groundwork crew were busy making very good progress on a rectangular foundation, when my client said to them “you’re building my house the wrong way round!”. The issue was quickly resolved, but they then said the drawings never came with a compass or a topo overlayed, so they literally had zero information as to where the house should be facing, and it wasn’t the first time that this had happened…. . Yikes!!! These feck ups happen at all levels, so it’s defo true that it’s not how you messed up, but how you immediately take responsibility and ownership, and how quickly you can turn things around; even better is when you can do this without breaking into a sweat. The fundamental thing here is knowing your own limitations, as having balls bigger than your brain is not going to serve you well.
