Nickfromwales

Excuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuse me!?

Show them the pipe, where it goes, and that next door is also on a combined network sewer. You can provide percolation test results, DIY'd, to fortify.

In a nutshell. If it's still standing with no 'San Andreas' cracks then it's time to drop to DEFCON 5.

You'll need to find out if it's 'adopted' or not. Contact the utility company and then if it's adopted then you should be able to connect into it. Will be a gift if you can.

We may need to conduct Buildhub's first ever exorcism..........

I think the cells are bi directional, so when you go glass / glass you inherit some degree of uplift if irradiance is bounced off something and hits the back / underside of the panels, and afaik there aren’t any panels / manufacturers where anyone would purposefully place cells on the rear. You still get salespeople telling folk that light reflected by the moon can add to generation…….all of these idiots are dynamite lovers with a 2” fuse lol.

Feel free to post any recommendations for bonafide companies / individuals, but please share contact details by PM upon request to avoid bots & scams 👍. You can PM me too please, always looking to keep the little black book populated with good people

Maybe cheaper, but not by much, to have a glass / foil panel with far less longevity.

It doesn’t. You just discount it.

If going in trays this is of vital importance. If on a rail system, not so much, but a very good point!

Can you go back to them and ask to do 2 layers of FR PB + skim instead? You can even offer to use 2x 15mm to really give the BCO’s goolies a good rub.

I’d buy glass / glass vs glass / foil, as these have much better longevity.

Who has asked for this? Usually the standard plasterboard with a skim plaster coat attains 30 mins, without needing to then dress the steels behind it. Have you been asked for 60 min as your multiple stories? Can be easily achieved with 12.5mm FR plasterboard, possibly 2 layers if BCO requests it, and just accept a slightly lower ceiling. Much easier and quicker (and better).

I get apprehensive, still, after 30 years on the tools. Concrete pours are quite full on, even for the initiated. Maybe it’s time to reach out to a local groundworker to support? Would be money very well spent, because if this goes tits up it’s a 4-figure ‘catastrophe’.

It’s got to be cheaper and simpler to just whack in more fixed panels, and either go 50/50 East/West, or all true South? Maintenance and cost are big turn offs for automating this type of rig.

It doesn’t need a tundish as it’s not potable water. The reason you have a tundish on potable is that it’s a constant pressure, so if you’re letting cold mains water go to outside / drain then it needs to be visible so you do something about it. WRAS requires this. With your heating system it’s only got the pressure held within to release, then there’s nothing else to come out until you open the filling loop back up to refill it.

Have you worked out where they’ll clean the wagons, and where to dump the end of mix? They’ll drive through slops etc so you need to have a hose set up to clean the road if any concrete / residue gets on it. I’d get another pair of hands on site as you’re not going to be able to be in two places at once. Concrete pours are very much ‘full on’, so don’t relax too much.

The apprentice will soon become the master. Then you'll be all geared up for the next self build, as you'll be clever as fook.

Osmo oil is what we used in the last job where the client wanted oak 'everything'. The pre-finished Deanta doors we fitted had some sheen to them, so there was a little difference to them and the surrounding rebated linings / architraves / skirting boards and stairs (those were all raw oak and hand-finished on site to the clients preference). Satin was the suggestion, which I think is better for the generic stuff, and the doors (with the bit of mid-sheen) seemed to steal the show which I think is right. I'd prefer people to say nice doors, vs the rest of the surrounding material looking better. Attempting exact matches will put you in an early grave, so manage your expectations here, as I did with my redonculous OCD! Once you've moved in, you'll barely give these things a second more of your brain-space.

Make up a staff, with a 6' long piece of 2x2" and fix a square piece of plywood or other to the end, 150mm x 150mm as a pad to rest on the concrete. When you then rest on the surface of the wet pour, to get a level off the laser, it'll 'float' vs using, say, a bit of 2x1; this just pokes into the mix and sinks in, and is a PITA to keep still to see 'what's what'.

Even with an excellent power floater, nothing is good enough for a domestic setting imho. Bare concrete will always be bare concrete, and as it has no shine / sheen the unevenness is masked from any untrained eye.

It's fortuitous timing, as I've literally just witnessed an MBC pour where this was used, and it went well. Went to site to collect some of my stuff and the pump truck was just setting up! I stayed for the spectacle out of curiosity more than anything (plus I am sad so like that kind of thing lol). It was quite a thin 10mm aggregate mix, quite free-flowing up until one not-so (mix but last), and then all it needed was raking out and hand placing to within 3mm with the laser, and then a 6' dapple bar to get it to settle in it's final resting place. Finish was much like an SLC, and as the chap was dappling it, another leaned over him and sprayed a Sika sealer over it; this acts like a layer of cling film to stop moisture being released too quickly. Cost-wise, MBC asked no more money for it, but they avoided having to power-float so I doubt the difference was worth any proper quibbling over. Cemex provide the goop, so maybe check in with them if you require the nerdy stuff like additives and so on. We looked it over after the pour and noted it had fibres in it. It's due to have 3-5mm of SLC / feathering compound to then accept LVT (Kardean / Amtico or some such) and I doubt this will need much attention at all after these guys did their thing. As with anything, the right guys will do a great job, cheap guys will do shit jobs, and you then have to pay to put it right. These guys made it look easy tbh.

You should really hire a laser for the day tbh. Sooooooooooooooooooooooo much easier.

Yup. These should be bent over and sprayed white. Then mark the depth with a fat permanent marker. There’s a high risk of someone slipping and falling into the trench, and if they land on a rebar it’s game over. 🪦

You could just use self compacting / levelling concrete. Completely negates power floating altogether.