Nickfromwales

It requires a methodical approach, and a lot of careful execution. Shower trays don’t typically break easily, more like mechanical damage or accidental dropping of things onto them. If you’re not having a shower tray then maybe consider a wet room former? You just set this in place with tile adhesive, test the drain for leaks, then screed to it.

It’s what we do.

That’s quite a choke point, as the internal diameter reduces significantly with those converters. I only ever use those if the stack is cast and I can’t replace it for whatever reason. These fittings are very reliable, assuming the pipe has been chamfered and the rubber seal lubricated correctly, and won’t give you any trouble. If @Super_Paulie is in this amount of turmoil, simply use the solvent weld single socket one linked above, and sleep well. FYI, I have used socket fittings inside residences for decades, zero failures. “Chill”. 👍👌

So, for completeness, Q: Who here has specifically treated their system with biocide?

WHOA! Please define "vent", and DEFO post some pics before you begin doing anything

Eh? These are bomb and bullet-proof! I've been using (therefore trusting) them for nearly 35 year You are perfectly fine using the 'push-fit' 110mm stuff, so relax a bit Gives you a bit of flexibility and wiggle-room vs the concrete solidness, and lack of forgiveness, of solvent weld.

This is exactly what I have just designed for one of my current clients. Sizeable property, >400m2, so 2 units needed here. Beer is helping sooth the brain ache, after beginning the install today.

Yup. Or just a regular double socket connector needing zero glue?

Or this... https://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-solvent-weld-3-boss-double-socket-short-pipe-grey-110mm/17138 ....if you need to glue it and push it down from above.

Something like this? https://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-push-fit-3-boss-single-socket-pipe-grey-110mm/18246?msclkid=842481fd35ec11702792ebfa4ba05dd8&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Bing_UK_Shopping_PMax_Heating %26 Plumbing&utm_term=2331720565763883&utm_content=Heating %26 Plumbing&gclid=842481fd35ec11702792ebfa4ba05dd8&gclsrc=3p.ds&gad_source=7&gad_campaignid=22478593832

Good and bad (sad) news….. If you’re really stuck, my sparky travels. PM me if you need some interim support, or the job finishing etc. SLC looks good from here, and it is your floor layer who should now survey and advise; if it’s pretty good then maybe just a rub with a carborundum block may suffice, vs additional feathering with another compound.

Perfectly acceptable. Carry on. Run 50mm waste for the shower for that distance, and 40mm for the basin; reduce that to 32mm on the outlet of the last 40mm bend. Discharge will be much better than using 32mm to the basin from the stack 👌

The fitters should be using (should have used) industry recognised practices for measuring moisture, not a £20 B&Q tester. Likelihood is that they’d never be employed if they tell every client that the slab isn’t dry enough to lay……so maybe an incentive exists to do the most rudimentary test possible.

I specified a ‘sump’ in the space under the 5x15m pool, in the basement, to house all the ‘pool paraphernalia”, so if anything failed the entire contents of the pool could be evacuated quickly. I combined that with the drainage system from the basement, and did the pump set in triplicate for redundancy. Gave me and the SE a headache or 3! I planned to use UFH pipes in the base and lower sides of the pool walls, to minimise the impact of the pool plant space needed. Was an interesting idea, and was received well, but apparently not very common in ‘usual’ pool builds; seemed ideal for one done in ICF though. If you need a very good ICF guy who’s fluent with pools and basements etc, send me a PM. 👍

It’s just a pair of ducts, and always better to split if a bit of perseverance is all that's required. If not: https://www.fastlec.co.uk/zehnder-2x160mm-right-hand-external-wall-grille?utm_campaign=smartsh&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=17190426677&gbraid=0AAAAAD8Nz9fu_eyDURmwcHW6P3dpk3hDY&gclid=Cj0KCQjwiJvQBhCYARIsAMjts3Imbzib3ncRTTalOOZ3KgS2mHzKVr_TKBRUixo1vAQCZhQOe8lJffUaAoctEALw_wcB Expensive but good. You can buy RAL coloured spray paint to get it colour matched if necessary.

Can you give a general location, so folk here can recommend someone close to you

I’ve fitted a few of these, very happy with them. https://www.brinkhrv.com/sky300

It’s a <£200 day out for the training and subsequent “qualification”. I have been meaning to do it, but life continues to distract me.

This will be the best £4k you ever spend sir.... Please do. I've done a few pools for clients over the years, next one is outdoors in ICF, and am ever curious (and keen to brush up where any opportunity presents itself).

The Panasonic’s are up on a factory plinth anyways. I set these on blocks if the client specifically asks, also allows the typical concrete slab to go bye bye, much easier on the eye with a bit of nice landscaping around.

Listen to your SE! Anything short of their current proposal would be what worried me here, plus they won’t put even the hairs of their crown jewels onto the chopping block of assumption, why would / should they? This one is absolutely fundamental, as the downward and outward forces at play here are significant to say the least. If this is done even slightly poorly you risk losing the integrity of the house you’re putting it into. Best not to tar them with the same brush…..

The tail doesn’t wag the dog though 🙃.

You are a rare gem in the industry. Normally the blame avoiding is staggering, and the ones levying charges for rectifying self made feck-ups is probably the most intolerable behaviour I have witnessed.

Who fitted them incorrectly? Get them to do it!?