Nickfromwales

Apologies, but mish mash where? I hope you wern’t expecting the facias etc to match the concrete tiles? The roof looks neat and presentable to me, and I’ve seen some PROPER shit-fests over the last 30+ years in the industry! The only way to get consistency is by adopting an approach where you use the same material throughout….eg things which are RAL matched with a painted or powder coated product / finish(es). Roof 90% complete here and no discernible changes until the material itself changes, eg when metal meets synthetic mill boards, and then again when they meet the powder coated drip, and that all changes at the windows. All discussed and chosen before the foundation was laid, to manage expectations vs results and provide time for procrastination / options / avoid disappointment; accepting these differences but choosing colours and finishes which would then compliment each other. It’s looking good currently, imho, so maybe hold off your final decision until the house has all of it’s makeup on, and the see if it’s actually way less ‘hideous’ than you think? You’ll also probably look at the roof for the first few weeks max, then completely stop caring about it when you’re making far more important choices indoors. Looking at these things through a microscope is a quick route to the loony bin, and this is a conversation I have with all of my clients, well in advance, so they stay sane. Storm in a teacup maybe ?

Less the cost of ‘wear and tear’; replacement of equipment over a 25 year period etc. Inverter will fail, batteries will degrade, solar panels will outlive you if you buy the right ones, so the maths need doing for sure to work out whether to invest in batteries or not. The max revenue is relative to lifestyle / number of occupants / EV household or no EV / working or retired (or WFH), E/W split or due South array, and more. It would be sensible to take 10-15% of the ‘income’ and set it aside for these inevitable lifetime of ownership costs. What’s the latest on V2G and V2H these days?

Respectfully, you need to include a contingent, when planning a home for life. Filed under “shit keeps happening”. Explore early, discuss in advance, resolve, progress. Zero reason to fail if you prepare afaic.

This unit would need to be able to run independently, so plan the controls well, and manage your expectations of efficiency and ‘short-cycling’ even better. These things should have been ‘on the M&E menu’ at day dot tbh.

Whoever told you that had more than 2 legs lol.

All good points. Burying any gas pipe in an inaccessible position is fraught with danger. Track pipe is a welcome solution, but we cannot possibly see the multiples of facets the OP needs to consider.

Sorry to be blunt, but unless anyone replying here holds a current GSR'tion, then you CANNOT use any information given. LPG is a very different beast to NG, totally different playing field. It's gas, it causes death, so needs to be looked at specifically, in isolation; airtightness / adventitious airflow + MVHR needs adding to the question, and more, so PLEASE stop asking questions here and go get a GSR'd installer to visit site and quote current regulations / legislations etc. Yes, I'm hot, it's been a long day, but SERIOUSLY!?????

And over-opinionated Welsh folk Anything is possible, you just need money, imagination, and good people to support and execute the work. The garage is referred to as being 'outside the heated envelope' of the main (habitable) dwelling, AKA a "cold" space. To move the WC out there requires you building a wall at the end of the garage to create a new 'partition'; this would require a full building regs application with a proposal from a general builder, for comment. The garage floor should be stepped down 100mm or so from the residential dwelling, so that would need insulation over, to bring it to an acceptable standard, plus insulation to the ceiling and any external wall you then create (a new wall inside the garage would be considered an 'outside wall' as it abuts the remaining 'cold' area of the garage. I've done plenty of these jobs over the years, and it is very simple tbh. So....to answer your question...."YES!".

The number of similar-looking HMO and student bathrooms I've seen over the years, leaking showers and baths into rooms adjacent or underneath, and 1.5 tubes of clear CT1 later, problem solved (for 10 years). Preparation is EVERYTHING, as if what you need to stick, can't stick, then............................it won't stick. Use CT1 MultiSolve spray for prep and decontamination, and then you'll enjoy a non-leaky vessel in an afternoon.

Agreed, but a bath that's not meant to be stood in moves and flexes a LOT, which causes seals / silicones / grouts to perish and the same issues to repeat themselves. Most baths I fit with shower 'over' them are Trojan Cast. Bombproof. Even if only occasional use as a shower bath, it'll still need to not budge. I always fit a batten along the wall, 2mm shy of where the underside of the bath will be, and set the bath into a fat bead of CT1, and use the same to bond the back edge of the bath to a tanked or primered wall, before sealing again, and then tiling.

You're supposed to say it 3 times....... anyhoo So, what we see is getting removed and replaced? You've bought a shower bath? e.g. one that can be stood upright in, and has the correct additional reinforcement etc.

DIY pour by your good self? If so, do it like @Onoff did, and set yourself some screed rails, as metal L angle is cheap as chips. Or go proper old school and set them onto the floor and pull them out after the mix turns and infill; that's my least favourite method though. 60 days to dry will be plenty, but you can change the cement to an Ardex replacement and, depending on the product, you could lay ceramic tiles 45 mins after the screeder has driven off in his van.

How thick, and over what? Ceramic or porcelain tiles?

Ffs. 🤦‍♂️😂

One of my current projects today

You use both.

You’re welcome caveat; you’ll have one guy on the dapple bar, another at his side raking the concrete about, in his other hand the bar for the dumpy laser for getting TOC within a few mm, and unless it’s a small slab you need a backpack spray bottle loaded up with the sealant so you can spray sections after the dappling has been done. So many facets to this, plus watching the consistency of the mix(es) to adjust pace accordingly. In this weather, those with a brain or experience have cancelled all concrete pours. Just too hot atm.

It’s knowing how / when to use it. You would also need to seal it as you lay to stop the moisture evaporating too quickly. Not a job you can just ‘do’, if you’re not used to doing it. I know some very good lads who would work a weekend, if you need (want) some help, (and if you can get concrete there on a Saturday). Let me know.

@Bird https://www.easywatercalc.co.uk

YouTube vids should help, as seeing pictures and methods will be much more benefit to you. Self Compacting Concrete may help massively as this will want to find it’s own level without much coercion, but I would still recommend getting one chap in to help you finish the slab; you only need them for 1 day max and that can’t be too much £££ vs the risks. You also need to be able to adapt to the mixes being inconsistent, unless one wagonload will do you? You can also blind the finished concrete with sharp sand, before laying, but if you’re laying a screed on top then this doesn’t need to be that ‘spot-on’ anyways.

MI’s show wiring / plumbing options for most common setups, and I’m a big fan of 2 x 2-port S plan, which can be wired up to do whatever end functionality; they are connected to the HP PCB and the CPU does the thinking.

I’ve done a few S plan, and prefer the redundancy tbh.

Odd to see any requirement for overheat protection beyond the usual 3 port diverter and the stock cylinder stats, as it’s an ASHP so really it’s a low temp device / low risk install. It’s only the immersion that could boil your tank afaik, and that’s got its own protection built in.

Having been on site whilst AB ‘did their thing’ I can tell you for sure that AB do not fully mask off the doors and windows, and all they do is put 2” masking tape on the flat surfaces of the frames, and ZERO on the glass / vertical sections of the units. I asked why they wern’t masking off, and the very proficient team assured me “there’s no need, nothing will stick to anything other than the flat surfaces”. And they were 100% correct, even with tripods set up less than 1m from the £5k sliders, absolutely ZERO evidence of them ever being there. Flat surfaces were like a 1970’s nightclub carpet afterwards, like industrial fly paper, including all the screed. After a few days of foot traffic from trades and dust / sweeping other evidence was pretty much gone without trace. I’m still a huge fan of AB, and will be using them again soon for an ICF demo and replacement dwelling client.

Units designed and sized to be near silent in operation, without the wart on the wall or ceiling. Most of my projects (for clients) are planned out meticulously, using the slack in the sails during the 12 months before putting the foundations down, and this pays huge dividends. Ducts and service risers, MEP pathways, removal of boxing in and avoidance of conflict or ‘shit hitting the fan during the construction phase’ are all sorted well in advance. Makes life so much easier, and also allows cost savings and value-engineering a plenty; for example, MBC didn’t charge for the service penetrations to be made in both of the 2 steels in the GF ceiling / amongst the posi-joists, where 8x mvhr ducts, 1x soil pipe, and x qty of small bore plumbing and electrics will pass through with blissful simplicity. Condensate pipework to all locations, yes, on this atm. I discussed this with the client and explained why the pipework is not perfectly vertical; I explained that these condensate drains are constantly drip-drip-dripping and the sound of a water droplet landing on the rest bends in the GF ceilings would be like Chinese torture. My method for these is to put the rising 2.5m pipes in at an angle so the water runs down the pipe so it’s 100% silent. Every detail needs to be in check, ahead of construction, and LONG before they become missed opportunities / compromises / annoyances / outright feckups.