Nickfromwales

@JSHarris fitted a nice modulating inline instant. Check out part ( 41 iirc ) of his blog and you can see it mounted on the wall. Similar in size to a large electric shower. Why have you not fitted an electric shower out of curiosity? Then you could have got away with a small instant under the kitchen sink with a tee off for the wash basin.

Electricity / gas ? More info please Cold mains too or gravity?

Iirc, @iSelfBuild ( Richard ) stick built on site so, if he's blogged it, you may well pick up some good tips there for making cassettes / pre fab'ing / constructing a timber structure on site . If you have a slab to work off then I'd make cassettes and just flick them up onto position. That's what I intend to do for the man-shed, along with homemade trusses. Hire a nailer, get some OSB and treated 4x2, fill the fridge with beer and get cracking

Some people on youtube, and in life in general, know just enough to be dangerous. The framed / concealed / wall hung units NEED a fixed soil and flush pipe connection so the pan can be pushed back without either pipe being able to move back / away. After the rigid connections you can take the soil vertically down or horizontally sideways with the supplied connector. Onto the supplied ( 3" / 80mm European ) soil outlet goes an 80mm to 110mm uk standard adaptor. That's a male fitting which pushes into a push fit ( socket ) of a standard uk soil fitting. With a wide range of fittings available, and on a new build, there really is no excuse to resort to using a nasty flexi connector. I only use them on retro fit where the other option is either impractically expensive or the fittings just won't do what I need due to physical size / offset. DIY heroes love flexis as it removes the need for skill or imagination.

Plumb Center stock the slim flow restrictors that sit in the inlet cold pipework. WC manufacturers normally give you a little plastic corkscrew type flow arrestor for properties with abnormally high mains performance, so maybe use both one of those AND an inline restrictor. Which types of WC's do you intend fitting in the new place @ProDave ? These type of things. They're available singularly at P Ctr, rated at different litres per min flow. PS, all these things will affect how long it takes to fill the cistern, but not usually a problem tbh.

What you can't see in that picture is the original existing soil pipe set so far forward that it needed setting back to align properly with the immovable soil outlet of the WC. As soil fittings were 1) too bulky and 2) too much offset, I had no choice other than to use the most rigid flexi I could buy. I dislike flexible soil connectors passionately, and avoid them whenever possible. This was one job where it was unavoidable without re-doing the outside soil stack, which the customer declined.

Almost Would read : Cold incoming -> Instantaneous DHW Coil in TS -> Cold inlet in UVC -> DHW. The cold uplift is basically just reference to raising the incoming cold mains temperature before it gets to the UVC, so if the buffer was at 40oC and you ran a shower at 38oC you'd expect not to deplete the UVC of energy at all. Instead the ashp would bear the brunt, which would be the better option vs reinforcing via grid electric ( if Pv is unavailable / insufficient ). Lighting the stove purely to get hot water would be a pita, so the the ashp would be connected via a dedicated coil to always make dhw production just a matter of flicking a switch. I've run off a few designs ( and revisions of ) for member @readiescards which originated around a similar remit. After a very brief look at the UVC + TS setup I quickly realised there was an Achilles heel to that combination. ( at the time there was a wbs with back boiler in the remit also ). The issue I kept getting stuck on was the fact that the UVC may well be sat above the pre heated water delivery temp, so if Pv had given you a very hot tank full of DHW and you drew water through the pre heat it would cool the UVC and have an adverse affect. It would only be useful heat if the UVC was sat at ~45oC where the differential then wouldn't be quite so problematic. With a stove, and with Pv, I don't think the dhw medium should be an UVC tbh, it's just not suitable IMHO. I'd go for a dual TS setup with the upper one being at least 500ltr. This would have a dhw coil which serves the house dhw directly. It would also have a coil for the ashp to heat it. I'd then have a third point ( flow and return tappings not a coil ) to remove heat, designed with flow to be high and return low in the TS. The plot thickens . The ashp would feed a ( typically ) low temp second TS ( ~200 ltrs ) with a coil for cold mains uplift, but the primary purpose of that TS would be for providing space heating. It would also have another coil to accept excess heat from the upper TS ( from the third coil ). Basically this setup would see little or no wasted heat as the secondary TS would then double up as a heat battery. As the stove mentioned is suitable for a sealed system, you can be more creative with it under 'overheat' condition. So, you light the stove and the primary TS gets up to target temp. The circuit starts to peak out at 90+oC and then you soon have two choices, water cooling kicks in or heat gets dumped. Obviously heat dump is a waste in typical situations, but here it becomes advantageous as you have the means to shift excess heat from the primary TS to the secondary TS and max that one out too. A cylinder stat 3/4 of the way up the primary TS, set to around 65-70oC, would bring a pump on to shift the excess heat to the secondary TS which should keep the stove away from the realms of assisted cooling ( waste dump ). As the stove would typically only be used for space heating and water production when space heating is required, why not make the most use of the wood burning events? With both TS's complimenting each other ( primary charging secondary and secondary providing uplift for the cold mains ( instant ) dhw coil ), you'll have enough stored heat to give Ufh through the night and have a tank of hot water for showering in the early morning. I don't see the point in having a wbs of lighting it is going to quickly produce heat in excess of the immediate demand, and then you end up dumping the excess. If I was going to the lengths of fitting a system to accept wood burning, and I was going to fit a buffer for the Ufh, then I'd just upsize the buffer, make it a TS, and make some meaningful use out of it Another upshot of this setup is that when excess Pv roofs out the primary TS it'll still pump down to the second TS, so this excess storage solution works with both the wbs and the Pv. Another consideration will be expansion for the entire sealed system. Both TS's would require significant expansion volume for max temp tolerance so that's another thing to factor in accordingly. With a bit more thought maybe there is a better way to control the relationship between the tanks, but I'll see what critique this gets before I 'fine tune' it Waste water from the boiler as per peters comment, so no issues there. @ProDave If there was a water outage, burst main getting repaired I suppose is the only way for that to happen, then the boiler would over heat the TS and eventually the T&PRV on the TS would open ( at ~90oC ) and discharge the water to the tundish and D2 pipe to outside. Wouldn't be pretty, but it would deal with it. I think I'd want the D1 in 22mm ( upsize from 15mm to 22mm immediately after the T&PRV which are typically only ever in 15mm ) and then on to a 22x28mm tundish with 28mm or 35mm D2 to drain. Adding a cold mains accumulator would give you a reserve of pressurised cold water, so cold mains failure is addressable should it ever be a concern.

Nope. Sorry I thought you had a different type, such as the ones featured so far. You can get a flow restrictor, but it'll have to go in the inlet where the cold supply connects to the underside of the fill / float valve. Do you have access to the underside of said cistern?

Do you have a link to the ones you've chosen? Im stumped as to why anyone would buy the cisterns without the access through the large flush plates tbh, as the extra grief of creating an aesthetically pleasing tiled access panel would instantly offset any extra cost, plus, also just IMO, I think the overall result is just better across the board. The only difference I can imagine, to swing such a decision, is to get a much smaller, understated flush button. Could you explain the latter of your statement as I may not have grasped what your doing properly Ta.

Have you tried part opening the cold isolation valve to slow the water velocity? edit : NOT the ballofix 15mm isolation ( if one is fitted ) I mean the one inside the cistern.

Dont flatter yourself lol. I'll 'do it' for the good of the thread / members too and, tbph, I want to know for myself as I may well start promoting these through my business. . To summarise, that's 2 members at 3 pints each so next Friday eve is covered ???? Sweet.

Need to speak to them before I can comment tbh. I've not looked at these close enough to cast an opinion but I'll ring Monday and see what the Bobby Moore is. "Please hold the line.......your call is important to us....." ?

The only differences I can recall is some do the extraction and I've not seen it on others. I'll confess to not ever having asked / checked properly tbh, but apart from that they're much of a muchness afaic. If I had to choose I'd go Geberit, as I'd be looking for long term parts availability. That would be my primary concern. Price wise there's not a big enough difference to argue, considering this'll be buried behind your tiles for the foreseeable.

There's a higher risk of spilling a full kettle over you and causing horrific injuries than a splash of boiling water on the back of your hand from the instant tap imo. Waiting for the kettle to boil does my nut in so I'm a fan.

Maybe I should have watched the video first ?

Could you elaborate a little on that please? Are you saying the water stays warm in the pipes ? The scenario your describing makes having the hot return sound unnecessary.

Yes exactly this and all run in copper piping. That's the 'normal' way to do it, but has the Achilles heel of long waits if the HRC is ever turned off ( so basically you'd need to run the HRC from dawn to bedtime really ) as you then have bigger dead legs caused by the 22mm pipe runs. Agree that it's a balance, as the 22mm pipe runs give the flow rates for 2 showers etc so if your happy to run the HRC accordingly then a good option as it negates complex radial pipe work. I guess it's the toss up between a passive or dynamic solution, but an HRC is really for quite adverse situations or folk who value convenience before absolute efficiency.

PM me and I'll fwd the pdf of the manual they sent. Alternatively you can request it yourself. . The unit needs a waste pipe to drain for the cold water cooling system so factor that in when considering a design.

I rang for some clarification. Here was the ( bloody quick ) reply... Nick,My names Jamie, I'm a heating engineer working for Stovesonline. My colleague Susi has asked me to contact you regarding a Woodfire CX series boiler stoves.They are designed to be installed onto pressurised systems. The boiler is tested to work at a max operating pressure of 3 bar.The boiler stove is also fitted with a quench coil, this is basically an indirect pipe which has cold water passed through when overheating. The cold water which is passed through the quench coil is controlled by a overheat valve. The valve has a probe which is fitted into the boiler stove, if the temperature in the boiler reaches 97degc then the cold water flushes through the boiler stove which in turn cools the stove down.I've attached the installation and operating manual for you. Please let me know if you have any questions.Kind regards, -- Jamie Bennett Heating Systems Manager

You stayed in education longer than me I meant it's not full of energy specific to the production of hot water for dhw. ( or poor words to that effect ). Now shut it, and help me say what it is that I meant to say

Please tell me how this ties in with the sunamp enquiry ?

Technically it's storing heat ENERGY so can be do texted anywhere you like. I'll check out the vid later and see what I can derive from it

I'm sure you won't be waiting too long

I can vouch for him What @PeterW said.

07:30 onwards, you're back in business. Sleep now, for tomorrow I fear more ranting. My 6-shooter is loaded, and ready to pick off any trouble makers If we all keep to the facts I may save on ammo. "Have a nice day, Y'all"