Nickfromwales

Have you seen the Vaillant 938 ? It's a hi-flow heat store Combi and as long as you have VERY good cold mains, or have taken measures to provide it, you'll get two adequate, or one blasting shower out of that with ease.

For sustained use I'd recommend going for a soft grip handle to absorb a bit of the impact. Like dave I bought a bright neon green bugger so it's harder to lose, just seem to lose everything else now ?

Oh, and put the trim at the wall / reveal junction so the flag is on the wall NOT the reveal. That'll gain you an extra 2mm

Use sika to bond the tiles on the reveal so you just end up with the thickness of the tile against the window. The sika can be fag paper thin and still hold like a chav with a winning scratch card.

That's mighty close to the glazing bead, have you checked it for a tile + adhesive?

In a low energy home with high levels of insulation under the slab, I'd really not worry one bit about heat transfer / losses caused by the lack of contact caused by the underlay. The only point I'd raise is if you have this wood in some areas and not in others. The areas where the floating wood is laid may benefit from a very slightly higher flow temp but that may then overheat other areas ( particularly important when all zones are controlled by one stat, eg a single flow temp per zone ). Have you zoned the heating ? Is the wood throughout ?

They being skimmed or tiled?

Rubber flooring looks good, and will make it easy to clean up whilst giving increased longevity to the subfloor. . Do you have the link / how much per roll ( £ p/m2 ) please ?

+/- 2mm worrying you ?!? Given the shape of the room at the start you should be patting yourself on the back mate

He's right. There is no way an oil boiler should be servicing the UFH directly, even more so with it connected directly to the heat exchanger and no means of bypass. In the boiler manufacturers installation instructions ( MI's ) it'll specifically mention designing the system to reduce / eliminate short cycling. This can be done with a LLH or small buffer tank, I'd go for the buffer myself as a LLH will typically have much smaller volume which would give less result vs cost to do. The heating all comes off the buffer, 3 sets of tappings ( boiler in and 2 x UFH out ) and the dhw still comes direct from the boiler via the motorised zone valve.

In fairness, that's looking like one well engineered, meticulously executed bathroom. . Très bein, Rodney.

A mobile welder will gas a couple of letterboxes in for you in no time at all. Just check with SE to see if they need to be plated over afterwards to maintain integrity. ?

I'd favour push fit EVERY day of the week. As long as the pipe is supported then there is really no need to solvent weld imo. I've had more trouble from solvent welded joints on 110mm than I ever have with push fit. Glue can go brittle and if the two mating surfaces aren't prepped and cleaned properly then the joint will fail. Also, you'll really be buggered if you ever need to move or alter it afterwards. Silicone lube it up and push fit all the way.

Can you post a link to the one you've chosen? I think it'll more likely be push fit tbh.

?

My mate did that. Just bought a 1400x1800 piece of smoked, tempered glass, and a chrome wall channel. Looked the bollocks. He asked me to manage the transition from downstairs to upstairs and supply a few pairs of hands. As he was a friend in need I naturally said no chance . I knew him well enough to know he'd have made me buy it if we broke it.

The Dewalt multi tool is a lovely bit of kit. I really dislike the on off switch position on the makita, and the Dewalt one is variable speed on the trigger too so a real contender. Fwiw, the new Dewalt stuff has me SERIOUSLY tempted, with just the price tag on the new 54 volt stuff keeping me well away. ?

I'm 80%+ makita, and they're great, but you'll be hard pushed to match the Fein IMHO. If it's a daily driver, go with another Fein, but if it's occasional then the makita is an excellent choice. Don't buy an early model or you'll be stuck with the tool change for the blades, the newer one is tool-free. For eg

Which one was it ?

Is it a system boiler ( with integral pump ) ? And are there any gate valves on the flow and return to the cylinder ?

I foooishly assumed that was a given, so yes, NEVER put chrome pipe into ANY speedfit fitting. . Good shout Peter .

They're only ever going to be at =/< 2 bar so I'd not panic too much about 2 compression joints behind the rad, I've done it hundreds of times converting copper to chrome via compression bends or couplers. Ive had more immediate failures with soldered joints than compression tbh. Famous last words

Id say inside .

Bingo

Nope. Quick search found this , Thats about as good as it gets, but with the added bonus of the compression side being able to accept chromed 15mm pipe, so the exposed stuff can be nice and shiny to match the 'radiator'. Then straight into these ??