Nickfromwales

Cost ? Supplier? Any links please? ??

I've just done a modest Wren kitchen. £10,400 for materials and £5k installation costs ( everything except final coat of paint ). £20k? They're having a LAUGH

@readiescards has ventured down this path . He's going off grid. Maybe some leads / links paul ?

Welcome 'back' . Dont worry about funding . After taking inspiration from your good self, you'll now find a £1 token meter in the post to you for when you wish to access BH. £1 gets you 10 replies, bargain !

Leave the floor intact. Horizontal and up n over as per last comments. Safety plates where you cut the battens out so no chance of screwing into the cables when boarding .

Heat deflection from the gas hob is a problem some don't appreciate. Most hobs, however, only require 55mm from the splash back / rear elevation so it's hard to understand the logic, but when you tally up the possible opposing heat deflected from the adjacent hob the factors soon start multiplying. .

Welcome aboard .

If it's gone that soon I'd say it's because the pipe work wasn't flushed out properly prior to connection. It's most likely a bit of solder / crud that's got in there, so I'd start by stripping and cleaning the valve and see if the washer / pin is blocked. Can't tell from the pic, but most of these modern ones can be rotated 1/4 turn ( after removing a small plastic retaining clip ) and changed like a lightbulb, as these are mostly designed to be serviced from above ( back to wall pans with no access from underneath etc ). If it's all exposed then I'd just change it out for a new one. The Fluidmaster range is good and not too much £££'s. Pro series with brass thread

So I did. Knowledge is power. ?

Hearing that makes me a very happy man, in that I've got a screeder who leaves my floors so flat I don't need tile adhesive they just lay there flat. Paint it green and rack up the snooker balls. He works away so if anyone wants a top notch screeder then I'll give you my mans details. A couple on here already have . Datum points are a great help, and once on can be left for the duration. It also means you haven't got to leave a delicate, expensive laser set up, to either munch the batteries or get damaged ( or nicked ). Professional units take a beating, diy ones just don't seem to stay accurate after a couple of knocks / dust ingress. False economy imo as the job you want them to do is usually a very critical and expensive one. Also, once you own one you'll see just how much you end up using it. Professional units are far easier to resell too.

Make an OSB box for it and wrap it in towels with cardboard and hardboard corners for 'transporting'. If you get two tower scaffolds set up 'staggered' accordingly then you'll be able to get it up there, just make sure that you, your mates and the unit don't exceed the max working weight. Failing that, a pair of skids made out of 9"x3" 's and some lashing points for strong ropes. If the Egyptians can do it so can you . Dont forgot some timbers on the roof as skids if you've got final coverings on ( slates etc ).

Apologies for my late arrival I'd get a simple aluminium plate say 120 x 500 x 4mm and bond this to the underside of the two pieces of worktop. Use sikaflex as it's a better adhesive than CT1 imo, full bed on both surfaces combed at 90 degrees to each other for 100% bond / contact. Clamp the front and back whilst curing and it'll be like one piece. To compliment this, run an Alu angle behind the drawer unit ( front top rail ) again bonded with sikaflex. Combined with the resin, to complete the gap filling in the actual worktop material, I'm sure this will be sufficient.

RIGHT! Break it up now people. Time to get the chat into the relevant threads / topics. . @Nick, lead the way. .

The titan set in SF seems ok. http://www.screwfix.com/p/titan-diamond-core-drill-8-piece-set/1154D?kpid=KINASEKPID&cm_mmc=GoogleLocal-_-Datafeed-_-Tools&cm_mmc=Google-_-Product Listing Ads-_-Sales Tracking-_-sales tracking url&gclid=CJrh35CFydECFY8Q0wodZOYAxA Just borrowed my mates titan set as my 4" cup just wore out after about 9 years of abuse. Bloody good bit that was. Gutted. I can report that the titan one works perfectly well and is cheap enough to keep in the shed for 'whenever'

Nope. She's deffo a one trick pony. . Go for the cross line Dewalt or Bosch. Both are good units. My mates dewalt one has taken an absolute pounding over the last 4 years or so he's owned it and it's still going strong.

I think that little green Bosch may have a vertical too?

Ed, it's not sounding good mate

This one may be trouble. Ill put a man on him Welcome Nick ( if that IS your real name ). Best you don't be good at plumbing or the gloves are coming off.

In fairness, it's a two way street here. For every golden nugget I've given away I must have had at least two or three in return. It's quite difficult to get free, impartial and, most importantly, honest advice, but here it's plentiful. Regretfully, I'm unable to help with your sausage guilt. Maybe eat less bacon? ?

Sorry Ian, this could be one of those tangents we promised not to take threads off on..........? My bad.

That seems to retail around the £120-130 mark. Tbh, for a bit more money I'd consider this one instead. I borrowed one of these off my mate when my Bosch was out of action and I thought, for the money, it was a very robust and versatile unit. The green Bosch stuff is the DIY range, with the blue being the proffesional range. Also, you may want to check out the Bosch equivalent to the Dewalt which is also around the £150 mark. If I had to choose, it would be the Bosch. I do a lot of tiling and stud work, so I went with this beauty Only downfall is it LOVES the batteries. A water level is good for when you don't have line of sight, but it doesn't have the cool red laser lines which make you think your in an illegal rave. ? Spend the other couple of tenners and go for a professional item.

Bugger......confession time. This seemed like the cowards way out ( so naturally, I went with it ) Coupled with this In my defence, ahem, the templates went straight in the bin as the rise and going was not on there for my particular requirements. Also, for anyone considering one of these DIY / flat pack staircases, they're the dogs bollocks. Stairs for idiots made simple. A word of warning, with the winder box if you've not got a perfectly flat floor to come off you need to adjust all the stated dimensions accordingly. Also, the underside of each winder was marked for 650 700 750 800mm etc and I wanted 700mm so duly cut along the lines. Ended up with chuffing 625mm width !!! , work that out. Fwiw, the instructions were less than great so I binned those too. Do I still get a Blue Peter Staircase badge?

After finishing my boys attic 'conversion' I now need to fine tune which detectors go where. I need 1) for attic room 2) for back bedroom ( above kitchen ) 3) landing 4) hall ( current battery one goes off when I cook steaks ) 5) kitchen ( heat obviously ) My main concern upstairs is technology catching fire. PC / tv / consoles etc on standby through the day ( 4 kids so don't even say to put everything off during the day, never going to be a realistic option ), with same downstairs but more about appliances there. Location 4 is the tricky one, but advice as to which is better, where, and hopefully why would be gratefully received. Thanks all. Edit to add : there are two bedrooms under the attic room, should I go crazy and cover those rooms too, or will the landing detector suffice?

Interesting or worrying?

There's so many different disciplines in a build. To be a master of them all would take a lifetime of learning. Success, certainly in my game, comes from adventure, failure and then success. Hopefully not too much failure to recover, but you can see why others get it so very wrong. The stairs for my boys attic room. A right hand winder going to a straight flight but steeper than the roof so two 'double depth' step-stroke-landings on the last few treads so as to not get any 'swede bashing' on the ceiling. Measured and marked it all out, didn't work ( no saw out yet btw ). Marked it again and again and then said bollocks to it its going in. Only cock up I made was the stringer should have finished flush with the attic floor but it was to joist level, oops, so 18mm short. Not the end of the world, bit of pine strip scarfed in here and there and bingo. Fact was, this was my first staircase and I'm happy I stuck to not ringing my Chippy mate to dig me out of it. Now i 'understand' stairs, "tread" / "riser" / "rise" and "going" / "squeaker blocks" / "toe" and the such I am now confident to get more involved when such jobs arise. Newels will be the next nemesis but one 'step' at a time. Definitely a good feeling when the not-knowing turns into clarity and you say to some inanimate object....."Bingo......have that you bastard". ?