Nickfromwales

Let me eat this and I'll tell you. ( working today but a nice restaurant around the corner, lasagne was stunning )

Don't over-tighten them. Also a bit of clear CT1 on the underside of the fixing will do wonders. Don't worry about any excess squirting out, just clean it off with baby wipes and finish with MultiSolve spray.

You can sit it on mortar but remember to check your head height or the window won't fit

Fill your boots, your catching me up

Foam and frame sealant. This advice is for your small window. For eg I'd use concrete screws through the frame AND cill if this were French doors / similar or a large window. Edited to add. Don't forget to keep checking the cill for level whilst the foam cures. Best to weigh it down imo.

Water is ok to enter between the window and the cill, been done that way for many years by many fitters. You need to fix the frame to the cill, end of, and stainless screws coated in silicone will not let anything through to the cill cavity.

For a window that size, if it were me, I'd be fitting 6 screws. 2 top, 2 where the window slams shut and two at the bottom. With the foam and getting tiled in it's not going anywhere. I've fitted plenty of smaller ones with just the head fixed and the rest shimmed and foamed + frame sealant. Dont over think / do this one or you'll end up distorting the left and right legs. Damp the brickwork prior to applying LE ( pink ) foam and go have a brew. Hour or two later see just how good that is without screws and report back

I always pack and level the cill first and concrete or tapcon it to the foot of the opening, sealing accordingly after with a combination of foam and frame sealant. Cut the horns first as said. Dont pre drill the frame ! Always drill with the frame in situ as you may pre drill on a hollow mortar bed or worse. . I line it all up, window in position ( unglazed ), shim it in tight with wooden shims and foam all around. DOUBLE CHECK AT THIS POINT THAT THE FRAME IS PLUMB, LEVEL AND SQUARE. Once set, only then do I drill for mechanical fix.

A bit of self leveller in the gap and jobs a good un.

Son of a bitch edit : these are warm white Couldnt find a cool white one. That was the problem as all the other LEDs in the room were cool. But, Seek and and ye shall find....

Even the little push in pea sized 10 & 20w ones ?

Tonight's responses are sponsored by 'Gower Gold', brewed right here in Swansea no less. Tres bien.

Oh, and why have a lot of manufacturers still not realised that LED lighting is commonplace now? Can they please ditch the chuffing 20w streetlight yellow halogen lamps? . Stripped and re jigged the last one as the customer was fuming. Swapped the driver out and replaced the halogen lamp holders with 3w led modules from Maplin. 3 days of self levelling and not even a smile, 3 soldered joints and she was doing cartwheels . Ah well, can't win 'em all

Having a remote panel with a link cable would be a very good idea. Plinth heaters do the same, so you don't have to bend over to switch them on, thus showing where one would park ones bike

Where the 50mm ( deffo upsize for utility ) comes up,out of the void, simply fit a tee with a cleaning eye. Then you can get one of those flexible drain rod things down there if the wee beastie ever blocks. If it does, I'll come up and do it for free. . 50mm will guarantee you a good air break, allow almost anything to get down the pipe to the soil run, and have a much better 'accumulative crud redundancy' factor. With both the soil and the utility connections rising from under the void, you'll have no need to box in. "Winner, winner, chicken dinner".

Just not the nicest looking job IMO that's all. Using an all solvent boss fitting, and all solvent joints in the 40mm is what I always do, and haven't lost a patient in 20 years. Bite the bullet and sling it all under the floor Fwiw, I always run 50mm under floors for showers, not 40mm. Am I reading right that it'll never be used?

Oh, and I'd 100% be getting those feet down onto the slab for sure. . Edited to add : don't chew the 500mm out, just multi-tool out where each foot is . Bingo.

The missing part you liked IS the one your missing The last one I did was offset with iirc a pair of single socket 45's, but 15's or 30's would do the same thing as its down to how much offset you require. You should be able to get the offset with one double socket fitting and one single socket fitting inserted into each other ( M&F ), or a pair of singles. Bit hard to say without being there holding a cold beer and pointing at it repeatedly.

The latter, unless you can get a bossed socket in between the pan connector and the invert ?

If that's 13 on the display, then it's likely not temperature. Got me stumped, but so have shoelaces.

@ProDave Why the gripe about having joints under the floor? Your entire run will be part hidden / boxed / buried outside so why not have that branch under the floor and then rise behind the pan? You'd be able to boss into that with next to no boxing-in in the bathroom other than the rising vent stack. 110mm push fit / solvent soil fittings are extremely reliable and robust. I'd reconsider tbh, as it'll save you a lot of extra work to go in the empty void underneath.

?

Shall I start a new thread about fitting lightning rods? ( only joking ?).

@Bitpipe. Hugh, didn't you and herb share a similar design schematic? Could you pop it on if possible please? ??

I'll have to drop the H then as I always thought it meant "Honest" Dave, we all know that's a great way of warming the water back up I guess that this statement is now the most important one so far then?