Nickfromwales

No you won't! ?

Ok. The bulge in the bath is most definitely because the batten is causing the bath to distort. I think this is all pointing in one direction......bye bye bath. I also think thats a lot more than a 'couple' of mm dog ear. . Some pills for your fitter to swallow..... 1) He advised you to purchase that bath. 2) He stated its robust etc 3) he stated its wonky and weak enough for the screen to bend the bath ; contradicting #2 4) Srceens screw into the wall channel and by no means should ever weigh the bath down as that would crush the seal strip so makes #3 a load of bullshit 5) He should have identified the defects prior to final fixibgvthe bath, end of subject. For you.... 1) You haven't landed the best fitters, but they've come back to address the problems which shows at least some integrity. That's obviously helped by the fact there's money owing. 2) Approach VP immediately yourself as the bath is unfit for purpose and suffers from obvious manufacturing defects. Time to argue that one out but try and agree on a credit towards buying a Trojan Cast ( reinforced ) bath from them rather than a refund. If they offer a refund then great, but I think you'll need to settle on middle ground TBH. 3) Insist the new bath is fitted to a wall mounted batten that runs for the 3 full sides that meet the wall, a standard that I observe for every bath I fit ( the brackets they've used always go in the bin on my jobs ). 4) Get the bath set into Sikaflex EBT and levelled accordingly. Leave that for a good 12 hrs to cure and then use the same to fundamentally seal the bath to the wall. Replace the tiles and use a coloured silicone to seal the bath to the tiles ( cosmetic / splashproof seal ). 5) Get the fixed screen / curtain combo and enjoy. These guys fit bathrooms and charge for it. Best they do it properly or leave the money there for someone else to come behind them. It's your confidence in them that's the deciding factor.

Looking at your feet so you don't get a slap

?

I'm just worried now that you'll try and make one

What, when bikini models work at car shows ? ??

It's a race between your job and @Onoff's bathroom . Now, where to put my money ......?

The ply skeleton will make fixing things like drawer runners a breeze.

Spill the beans. How much was it?

How much ? !!!!

That was reference to the framework not the finish . Stainless mesh or cement / render board atop to accept a cementitious product or even brick slips.

A table saw, some inch plywood, and some reasonable understanding of the jointing and spacing required and away to go. Rustic 'bark-still-visible' oak shelves and boards are readily available, even B&Q sell them, so you can mix reclaimed and bought materials to complete the look. How good are you with a saw and router?

I bought one for tiling. Stuck it in my glovebox 2 years ago and it's still there Didnt need it........HAD to have it!

On a garage conversion ( not one of mine ) the window company raved about escape windows upstairs so the customer agreed, changing the top openers to vertical openers. They fitted the windows only to find half way into the job that they hit the facia boards and wouldn't open more than a few inches. Top class survey team

Is the work subject to BRegs? Do the current windows actually ( practically) provide a means of escape? Are they above 800mm from the floor? Info please! .

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We're not on the same page here Pic is just a random Internet grab The timber frame I'm referring to is factory integrated into the construction of the bath. See the image, where the legs meet the underside of the bath......they hit this timber batten. Does your bath have that batten built into both width and lengthways as in the pic?

The wooden frame on most acrylic baths are there to receive the top lip of the bath panels. Steel baths don't typically have any timber as it can't be bonded on easily like during the manufacturing processes associated with acrylic. I have always had to make complete frames from scratch for steel baths. Does the timber frame run under the taps as well as along the length of your bath? If so it'll be impossible to jack the dog ear corner up as the whole thing will try and lift as one .

I hope that it had tinted windows ?

In a passive-esque house, you'll introduce a lot of nuisance heat trying to get the system to deliver heat that's actually useful enough to dry towels, considering the house will most likely be sitting at a comfortable ambient temp anyway you'll actually have to 'force' the system to deliver the higher grade heat. That heat will be set at the heater, and have to traverse all the piped system, so will likely waste more energy than save. If your an exporter of electricity then it's acceptable 'collateral damage' to run the towel warmer and UTH from grid electricity for the little time and consumption they'll require. @Onoff's situation is different as he won't have PH specs to save him from having to employ a higher flow temp, plus no MVHR, triple glazing, airtightness etc so not apples for apples there . Each situation is unique .

Yes, I'd not bother with wet plumbing the towel rad. It'll never be economical to run it off the wet system, and it'll be used so little, and mostly when the house is above ambient. That'll mean to get it to heat the towel rad ( essentially to overheat the room ) it'll bring the entire wet system into play, so the heater ( boiler / HP / other ), manifolds etc, and all the interconnected pipework through the house will be heated just to warm a towel .

Deffo go for the electric element in the towel rad over wet plumbing it. That way you don't have to have the entire pumped warm water system going for just a trickle of heat to the one rad. After that it sounds your ok, as it's far easier to use electric solutions here vs wet warm water systems as the cost and complexity soon becomes significant. Using very good room stats which won't have too big an overshoot ( good hysteresis ) will be vital. @JSHarris may be able to provide a link to his which, iirc, switch at 0.1oC increments.

+1. Try separating two pieces after a couple of hours

That's easy. Make the bottom section shorter and straight by leaving the bottom right 'triangle' as part of the frame . ? You can have far less door that way too.

Yup, by far the best, easiest option. Creating a gull-wing door that opens upwards would be lunacy. First big gust of wind, bye bye door. Not enough width on the top for the physics to work on that one imo.