Nickfromwales

Probably the condensate and the blow off aka PRV. Blow off is fine, condensate discharging onto the ground near your foundations is not good at all.

Nope. Crack on. ?

Yup. It's disgusting, but totally avoidable in a new build . DIY heros usually thrive on it, but not everyone owns a multitool, the tool of all tools. Cue Tina Turners 'Your simply the best' coupled with a standing ovation for the guy ( ) who invented it.

This is a shot of the laminate, slid underneath the linings which were undercut as @PeterW mentioned. Off cut of flooring and underlay with the blade of the multitool sat on that. No 'awkward' cuts here chief. Arch's and skirts go on afterwards. ? In the flats I'm building, we've done :- Studs linings PB Skim Mist coat paint ( sprayed ) ? Arch's Flooring Final paint ( by hand ) ?

That's what I / my guys always do, as by the stage that your flooring the door linings are usually already fitted so you can PB to them and skim ( so floors aren't damaged by splats etc ). Not life or death, but 'part of the process'. Are you doing the linings yourself? If so then there's nothing wrong with doing them after flooring, just you need to be spot on with the cuts and the heads need to be level. It may even be easier for you that way, but I'd assumed the linings were in by now ?

Lose the rubber insert . I use these bad boys .

I would have 'liked' that, but only if you'd gone all solvent weld

Nope. The lip covers the hole, giving some surface area for the solvent to have something to have some contact with. The lip has to be bigger than the hole you made or it'll fall through. The seat, which goes into the hole to centralise the boss is not on view. . They may not be the technical names as I just made those up to make me sound clever ?

If it's deffo the solvent joint, and the strap on has a lip all round, how did the dye get on the outlet of the strap on. ? edit : can you get under there and sort it?

Down where ?

What's not to like about those ? . Just saw your post was jan 13th lol. Pretty much around when I bought my boys LED strips and controllers / psu's

http://www.plumbcenter.co.uk/heating/water-treatment/scale-reducer/ Anyone got any feedback on these types of things ? @JSHarris, any snake oil here? Ta. @Onoff. Go find your daughters cutest, fluffiest, softest cuddly toy..... Cos that's how soft my water is. ( Never had to fit one other than a job in oxford but that was a full on softener for a whole house ). Da iawn .

I bought the same supplies, but yet to fit them. Is it deffo the RCD not an RCBO or MCB?

Inline softener / limescale reducer ?

Don't do it. Any such residue will start collecting on the flush seal rubber and start causing problems. If you want to squirt anything, squirt it straight into the pan. If it's a marriage breaker then crack on and live with possibly having to periodically strip and clean it ( as per the video I linked ) which doesn't exactly take long. Maybe a good idea now to find that seal as a part number and get 2 now.

Has the concrete been cast yet?

An age old problem with earlier models. Nothing to worry about on these. . It was Temp who highlighted that problem as he had issues with his ones, but they were also the 'cistern only' models, not the framed one that you have, and the issue was the outlet of the cistern where the flush pipe connected at the bottom. That was a choice of friction only, over o-rings, or the old plastic nut and black rubber 'olive' washer. "Stand down red alert" .

Get it covered up . Those things are bombproof .

Thanks ? The original window was about 400mm x 400mm, so only about 300mm of glazing, so I chopped the TF out and fitted that bigger 800mm one. Much more light into the room now, but a right pita to peel back the load bearing layers of the head above ? When i get 5 mins I'll start a thread on the bath waste that I 'pioneered', the square you can see in the floor in front of the window. The circle in the corner is the Hans Grohe freestanding bath tap 'receptacle' which is basically a very posh bayonet type fitting which the tap stand gets fitted into after tanking and tiling is complete. I'll post some pics on the aforementioned thread after I second fix it next week.

Diamond core drills will go through rebar with not much extra effort. Drilling goes noticeably slower when you get to one, or more than one, and you just use high revs and next to no pressure to allow the bit to progress. I would, without hesitation, hire a drill that comes with a water feed system that squirts water down the pilot bit, IF these were bigger holes, but at ~80mm I'd just drill them dry and accept the bits as consumables. A good machine is essential, one that can keep going for the whole duration without cooking itself to death. That said, hiring the drill is best so you get an expensive machine for minimal outlay, plus you get to give it back at the end .

That is an Impey linear 2 wetroom former built into the left hand corner. Where the step is in the floor will go a glass screen ( 2040 high x 1180 wide ) to capture the splashing water. Shower 'area' ( sloped bit ) is 1200x900mm. Yes they'll have to dry the floor a little beyond the 1200mm but if you like cool then that's the way forward. @joe90, try before you buy .

Pressure often rolls off to nearly nothing with dynamic / flow. Having a 32mm pipe is favourable over 25mm afaic to keep that flow at its highest rate vs distance. Upsizing the pipework is commonplace for mitigating against such resistance, but I wouldn't bother going bigger than 32mm for a domestic supply unless you can prove it's worthwhile and will actually ever consume that volume of water. Its down to surveying the supply, as I've always maintained when designing / spec'ing anything.

Bigger pipe = lower resistance and better flow rates. I'd go for 32mm in a heartbeat, and the additional pipe cost is so low it's not worth worrying about. If it's over any reasonable distance then I'd actively avoid 25mm. This is an important consideration if the network mains is less than the aforementioned 'hydrant' .

Nope, I will be the stick I greatly dislike putting any metal compression fitting onto plastic ( mdpe ) as I just can't see how a metal olive being compressed onto plastic is ever a good idea. I've done loads when fitting kit supplied by others, but still avoid it on my own jobs. I will also kick in the testicles, anyone who works for me that puts speedfit pipe into a compression fitting. SQUARE in the testicles, and not a glancing blow, btw. ?

Bingo