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Nickfromwales

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Everything posted by Nickfromwales

  1. Nickfromwales
    It's ok, I've worked it out now. Sell them and move house immediately
  2. Nickfromwales
    Put the pipe cutter on and grip the front of the pipe with pliers or side cutters For any remaining exposed copper use this and just cut it to size. ? Edit to add : can we have a pic when done please ? ?
  3. Nickfromwales
    @JSHarris I have a mint condition Henry up for cheap. Do you want it?
  4. Nickfromwales
    You can push for one in 10 down here. Rule of thumb as I understand it is each single self contained dwelling should provide a minimum of one SVP to atmosphere to ventilate gasses from the public sewerage system. It's nothing to do with what's going on IN the dwelling and isn't required to assist in any 'plumbing' functionality. Thats the reason why you can petition them on the one in 5 / 10 rule, HOWEVER, if your house is at the end of the run, eg the public sewer terminates at your house rather than traverses or passes it then you'll get a gaseous build up so therefore need a SVP to satisfy said requirement. There is absolutely zero need for you to have a second SVP, that's just nonsense. Challenge it and ask why it needs two, and ask for it to be given in writing with an explanation. They'll drop it like a hot rock. Smoke detector in the kitchen may be to compliment the obligatory heat detector if the kitchen us over a certain size / the room space is excessively big.
  5. Nickfromwales
    Yes, because copper is king. ?? That's the one.
  6. Nickfromwales
    Bingo. ??
  7. Nickfromwales
    Sorry @TerryE, I replied on my iPhone but never pressed 'post'....I'm a wally. I meant to ask for a pic of what you have so I can advise, but @Temp has posted a good solution if it means it's the only option left. I never make a compression fitting off onto plastic tbh, but if it's the only real solution then you've not much choice. Pic please ! .
  8. Nickfromwales
    No need for dedicated runs because the hut ( lol ) is small enough not to worry. 15mm pipework throughout will suffice, with everything teed off as and when to suit. .
  9. Nickfromwales
    My heads so cooked after the last week I can't even tie my shoelaces. ? Good luck, I'll just copy the most popular answers. ??
  10. Nickfromwales
    I suggested 120l because oil likes a long full burn, so the boiler combustion chamber, baffles and other intervals all get up to temp and it burns clean. You could feed the rads off the buffer TBH, and may be the better solution. I'd recommend feeding them via a pump and TMV so you can cap the max surface temp of the rads, as even direct off the boiler they'd probably be uncomfortablly hot and overshoot the room stat set point.
  11. Nickfromwales
    Yup. And the boys pee like the ghostbusters zap ghosts. "Never cross the streams!"
  12. Nickfromwales
    Forgot about that option TBH.
  13. Nickfromwales
    Put it in an IP enclosure. Think of a Jacuzzi bath with the gear underneath.
  14. Nickfromwales
    If you use Ardex A35 instead of cement you can lay ceramic tiles in 4 hours, FACT. Just used it and it's outstanding. Only ballache is £35+vat per 25kg bag and you need a pan mixer to mix it. Do not try and use a turn and fall ( regular ) cement mixer. Can you wait ? If so, just pour a nice wet concrete and tamp it with a timber T bar and leave it 5-10mm shy of where you want it. Finish with leveller or plenty of tile adhesive. FWIW, tiling with a green slab can be done in less than a week if you put down a Ditra mat decoupling membrane ?
  15. Nickfromwales
    Hi and welcome @lewis A few will be along to comment shortly. . In the meantime, tell us a bit about where your building and the journey so far please You can post a brief in our "introduce yourself" section, add as much detail as you like. ?
  16. Nickfromwales
    I'd shoot anyone plumbing in the entire UVC on flexis TBH, but you NEED rigid pipework for the control group anyhoo plus rigid for the D1/D2 so you wouldn't be saving much imo.
  17. Nickfromwales
    Take D2 into a Hotun waterless trap and then to ground. Ditch the tundish but keep all the pipework in copper.
  18. Nickfromwales
    Why not run a pipe up to the attic space above ( iirc your only part-vaulted ? ) and put the EV up there? You need to allow your plumber to answer the final fitting questions TBH, ( G3 regs will apply even though your not getting a BR certificate if you want a warranty ) but iirc D1 can have a bend horizontally before dropping to the tundish as long as you can get 2-300mm of vertical D1 pipework before the tundish ( to take the swirl out of the flowing water ) as otherwise it goes everywhere except into the ( open sided ) tundish. You then also ( iirc ) need a minimum of 400mm vertical dropping D2 leaving the tundish before the next horizontal / invert. The control group does indeed need to be within 500mm of the UVC.
  19. Nickfromwales
    In that case I'd live with the seat resting on the flush plate and replace if / when they get damaged. If you don't 'lean back' then the problem is minimised.
  20. Nickfromwales
    Yup. All the ones I've seen are now either fixed or have a double o-ring seal plus the compression nut, so the nut only holds the pipe up rather than create the force needed to make the seal.
  21. Nickfromwales
    They don't back onto a wardrobe / other in the adjacent room by any chance ?
  22. Nickfromwales
    There is a Geberit frame that fits into ac100mm stud frame, which is ~90mm deep.
  23. Nickfromwales
    Heed these words well as the seat hitting the flush plate has generated many an angry customer. .
  24. Nickfromwales
    Hi Amanda, and welcome. You sound like you'd be a valuable addition to the crowd here so please stick around . If you wish you can request blog rights ( they have to be granted by one of our admins, @PeterW, @recoveringacademic or @TerryE ) and log your adventures there . You could read @JSHarris's blog as that has some great info about dealing with solar gains, from a continuously recirculating UFH system, through to tried and tested reflective window films etc. Searching this forum and its predecessor Ebuild will see chat continued here from the latter, with a wealth of warts n all reviews derived from selecting, installing, and living with such system, and their associated disciplines, which is priceless. Search, ask, and enjoy!
  25. Nickfromwales
    I always wondered about where the water goes after rain hits the slab and goes down between the slab and DPM, which is essentially a pond liner. I just assume the DPM will likely have a tear in it or water would weep out of any overlapping joints ?
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