Nickfromwales

I've got the makita, but TBH it's very hit n miss. One day good another day jamming every half hour. The one linked seems poplar and the DIY SOS crew were using and abusing them so must be good .

IMO yes. Think how many houses you've lived in that didn't have that and you'll see it's not really necessary. The only thing I'd go for is a single un-switched socket on the kitchen circuit that has a power fail alarm plugged into it, somewhere where it's inaccessible, say above the larder unit where it can't get taken out. Iirc, @Temp posted a thread with one that had a GSM dialler ( text ) to say the power has gone off. My expensive Hotpoint freezer is a bag of shit. Instead of a loud wailing alarm to say the doors been left ajar by one of my lolly-loving kids, AGAIN, a bloody red light just comes on. Thanks to the total and utter PENIS at Hotpoint who thought that the light would be of any other help than to show you that you need to go food shopping in the morning and chuck everything out. Must be on the 4th or 5th child related freezer bail-out now in 10 years. Not once was it to do with a power cut. Tbh, if the door is kept shut and it's reasonably full, the freezer will go at least half a day without losing a crumb.

Haven't had my second coffee yet, plus ordering parts for my current job, plus charging my chuffing van as the back door wasn't shut properly last night so the battery went flat. "Finger of fudge". ?

Do 1 and 5 really need segregation? Normally all under the title of kitchen ring.

Get some ply down in the worst part then, glued and screwed, and then level the difference. What's the floor covering going to be ?

Mapei Is it undulating 0-20mm or can you bulk areas out first with 6 / 9 / 12 / 15mm plywood first ? A lot quicker to bulk out first, and saves a lot of leveller.

Forgot to address the Ufh issue. Simply don't put pipes under the reduced thickness wet area. Ask Hillard to spec for a second ring of thicker re-bar around its perimeter and you should be good to go. Regarding the Ditra mat, the thicker ones won't lend themselves to be formed and terminated into the sloped drain 'receiver' of most formers ( which is essential ) so I'd recommend the Impey water guard as that is a thin decoupling membrane AND tanking sheet in one. Not the cheapest but it's bloody good. Oh, and as I said maintence of the shower won't be a problem so move the shower head close to the soil and do away with the long internal waste run, if practicable.

Maintenance of what ? Almost all modern mixers are serviced from the front . Spend a little extra and go for something Mira / Vado / HansGrohe and you'll be guaranteed future service / parts availability too. Your question kind of answers itself. If you pour a bucket of water on the floor, it needs to all go down the drain. If you have a wet floor / former in the middle of the room, and no glass sides, then you need the entire room tanked all the way to the door. You need a bloody good tiler to pull this off, but it is doable. Basically you fit the shower glass to hide the fact that the tiles drop. Now you see it Now you don't. Thats basically how you'll need to do yours, with a linear drain in the middle exactly like that is. Yours will look the same, but instead of walking into the wall, where the shower is in that pic, you'll walk out the other side. So basically you'll be doing the same as I did there but mirrored. Get the wet area the same distance as the linear drains come supplied at so you have a full width drain, save for 50mm or so each end so your wall tile has a bit of floor tile to land on. Say 1000mm wide and a 900mm drain.

You only have to make off one CU to realise that this is almost always the case. I've been to loads of call outs where people are complaining of circuits not working, most with heavy loads like the kitchen ring, and I've found loose terminals on MCB's, and most where it's a relatively new CU / retire and they can't get hold of the original electrician to rectify. Make off the CU, go off and do a bit of second fixing for an hour or so, and then you'll be shocked at just how much more you can turn those terminal screws again, the ones just now that wouldn't budge any further. Plumbers fitting electric showers and 45a pull-cords are the best, lost count of how many of those I've been called out to and they're charcoal by then. Went to one not so long back where there was power ( live ) in all the sockets, so some hero with a volt-stick had said its not a problem with the CU, only for me to find the neutrals all lifted where they'd arc'd themselves dry. If trades folk had to do the kind of apprenticeship I had to do then there would be enough wankers scared off in the first year to sieve through this problem, but the market is flooded with college heros who can't drill a hole in a straight line. I'm constantly getting calls from mates who can't get something to work, can't fault find, or simply don't know what they're looking at. The garage which carries out my class 7 mot had a big compressor sat in the corner with the wires hanging out of it. I asked why they're hiring a small compressor whilst that's there and they said its been there for 2 years whilst they've asked every Tom, Dick and Harry to get the big one going, and none of them returned. 10 mins on the phone to Alan ( Magnum Compressors, very helpful guy if anyone is stuck ) and a new star / delta starter box and associated controls was posted out. A Saturday morning fine tuning the start over-current trip ( pita ) and jobs done. If you don't know, ask someone who does . Simple.

Avoid liquid screeds if your tiling / bonding the floor covering down. A lot of prep work after its cured. Nowhere near as tolerant as dry S&C screed for laying on 'too soon' too. I'm with Declan. Why the rush? There are companies who will put a sand and cement screed down and certify to 'dry' in very short timeframes. Ronacrete Flowcrete @tillywiz, have you spoken to either of them ? I'll ring my guy in a bit and see what he has to say.

The one for compacting the hardcore under the bathroom floor ? ? Shouldnt you be tiling ?!?!?

Can you do a flow rate. ? Get a bucket and a stopwatch.

Makita baby. ?

The difficult part is trusting the sparky to drill next to the airtight membrane WITHOUT damaging it, or worse, not telling you that they've damaged it . For the vaulted ceilings, I think I'd counter batten ( 100mmx25mm ) over the counter battens and use the first set for clipping to, thus removing the need to drill them. That would also mean you'll never be able to screw through a cable whilst doing the overhead boarding. I'd also counter batten the OSB'd wall unless there's a route behind it / you don't need to get cables up that elevation. Those could be just marginally bigger than doorstops, spaced to take the plasterboard accordingly.

Agreed. Only a welding God could weld a foot to a boot. ? ?

That's the only problem with this forum, too many geniuses in one place

Yup. With one of these.

As long as the breakers are covered by a metal door?

Ian, remember to wind the nut on only a few turns past the hut head on all the bolts on one side of the wall. That way when you come to remove them you can use a socket in the impact driver rather than a spanner. Then on the other side, just clamp the chuck onto the longer end to whizz them out under power. Grease will suffice as there's little area really where the concrete will gain any purchase, and whilst green they'll offer little resistance even to a cordless drill on gear 1. Knock this out sharpish and grab yourself a beer. ??

I know Cos I googled it.

You been to the pub ?

Removing the loo, basin and skirting if the floor needs renewing is easy enough. A one day job start to finish. Cut the door frame with a multi tool and slide the flooring under it, then put you architraves on the flooring but just snug. You then fit the skirting and jobs a good 'un. Nowt between the tray and the floor, other than bond / flexible tile adhesive, very important that water doesn't get under there. When the floor is laid, a good wipe and a bead of clear CT1 all the way around the room from the floor to the tray, floor to skirting and it'll last you a lot longer. If water can find a way in, itll get in and wreck the job. Tenants won't care for it like you would, so just remember that.

Same for 15&16? Aren't you not allowed to put differing manufacturers equipment inside a CU?

9 and 11 need to be unified IMO,mas the controls of a device should be fed from the same breaker as the device. 4mm2 cable going to the plant room, and the ashp isolator and feed there. ?