Nickfromwales

If it's deffo the solvent joint, and the strap on has a lip all round, how did the dye get on the outlet of the strap on. ? edit : can you get under there and sort it?

Down where ?

What's not to like about those ? . Just saw your post was jan 13th lol. Pretty much around when I bought my boys LED strips and controllers / psu's

http://www.plumbcenter.co.uk/heating/water-treatment/scale-reducer/ Anyone got any feedback on these types of things ? @JSHarris, any snake oil here? Ta. @Onoff. Go find your daughters cutest, fluffiest, softest cuddly toy..... Cos that's how soft my water is. ( Never had to fit one other than a job in oxford but that was a full on softener for a whole house ). Da iawn .

I bought the same supplies, but yet to fit them. Is it deffo the RCD not an RCBO or MCB?

Inline softener / limescale reducer ?

Don't do it. Any such residue will start collecting on the flush seal rubber and start causing problems. If you want to squirt anything, squirt it straight into the pan. If it's a marriage breaker then crack on and live with possibly having to periodically strip and clean it ( as per the video I linked ) which doesn't exactly take long. Maybe a good idea now to find that seal as a part number and get 2 now.

Has the concrete been cast yet?

An age old problem with earlier models. Nothing to worry about on these. . It was Temp who highlighted that problem as he had issues with his ones, but they were also the 'cistern only' models, not the framed one that you have, and the issue was the outlet of the cistern where the flush pipe connected at the bottom. That was a choice of friction only, over o-rings, or the old plastic nut and black rubber 'olive' washer. "Stand down red alert" .

Get it covered up . Those things are bombproof .

Thanks ? The original window was about 400mm x 400mm, so only about 300mm of glazing, so I chopped the TF out and fitted that bigger 800mm one. Much more light into the room now, but a right pita to peel back the load bearing layers of the head above ? When i get 5 mins I'll start a thread on the bath waste that I 'pioneered', the square you can see in the floor in front of the window. The circle in the corner is the Hans Grohe freestanding bath tap 'receptacle' which is basically a very posh bayonet type fitting which the tap stand gets fitted into after tanking and tiling is complete. I'll post some pics on the aforementioned thread after I second fix it next week.

Diamond core drills will go through rebar with not much extra effort. Drilling goes noticeably slower when you get to one, or more than one, and you just use high revs and next to no pressure to allow the bit to progress. I would, without hesitation, hire a drill that comes with a water feed system that squirts water down the pilot bit, IF these were bigger holes, but at ~80mm I'd just drill them dry and accept the bits as consumables. A good machine is essential, one that can keep going for the whole duration without cooking itself to death. That said, hiring the drill is best so you get an expensive machine for minimal outlay, plus you get to give it back at the end .

That is an Impey linear 2 wetroom former built into the left hand corner. Where the step is in the floor will go a glass screen ( 2040 high x 1180 wide ) to capture the splashing water. Shower 'area' ( sloped bit ) is 1200x900mm. Yes they'll have to dry the floor a little beyond the 1200mm but if you like cool then that's the way forward. @joe90, try before you buy .

Pressure often rolls off to nearly nothing with dynamic / flow. Having a 32mm pipe is favourable over 25mm afaic to keep that flow at its highest rate vs distance. Upsizing the pipework is commonplace for mitigating against such resistance, but I wouldn't bother going bigger than 32mm for a domestic supply unless you can prove it's worthwhile and will actually ever consume that volume of water. Its down to surveying the supply, as I've always maintained when designing / spec'ing anything.

Bigger pipe = lower resistance and better flow rates. I'd go for 32mm in a heartbeat, and the additional pipe cost is so low it's not worth worrying about. If it's over any reasonable distance then I'd actively avoid 25mm. This is an important consideration if the network mains is less than the aforementioned 'hydrant' .

Nope, I will be the stick I greatly dislike putting any metal compression fitting onto plastic ( mdpe ) as I just can't see how a metal olive being compressed onto plastic is ever a good idea. I've done loads when fitting kit supplied by others, but still avoid it on my own jobs. I will also kick in the testicles, anyone who works for me that puts speedfit pipe into a compression fitting. SQUARE in the testicles, and not a glancing blow, btw. ?

Bingo

Known ones would be the obvious. Depth of trench Fines in the bottom and immediately over the pipe to protect it from stones / sharps etc Warning / Marker tape to identify the location of the pipe from future damage Terminating the run accordingly, stopcock - NRV - drain off cock etc ( differing by location with Scotland being as fussy as they are in Wales according to @ProDave ).

It's very strange that a HGV driver must take breaks in accordance with the law, but 'you' or I could just drive around the clock on nothing but coffee or energy drinks. I used to do a LOT ( 1500+ miles per week ) and have been close to nodding off many many times. I doubt that would ever have happened if the company I worked for had to make me take breaks, eg had Tacho's fitted to the fleet cars to enforce it. I wonder if restricting charge times to a minimum of 30 mins ( if the charger 'knew' that you'd depleted your battery by 70% or more in one go ) would ever become legislation. I suppose not, unless they could enforce that accordingly across the electric / fossil fuel population. As always, I suspect more people would have to die through that type of accident first before the statistics showed up on the scale of consideration. My road is like Brands Hatch, but when I asked the neighbours a few years back why the next road down had two Gatos's but we had none, the answers were, 1) this is the main route for the hospital so they won't fit one until they go digital image & 2) Nobody has died on this part of the road whereas someone did die on the stretch further down They got 2 cameras, we get none. Digression over.

Just about to start getting to this phase so I'll bump this with options / prices etc. Thanks for the replies so far. @Dudda, Theres a basement flat where the stairwell starts, creating the primary means of escape from the 1sr floor flat. The ground floor ( pavement level ) is a chip shop so I think that's where the commercial aspect has arisen from. The chip shop will have a double fd60 doorway, separating the shop from and creating access to the stairwell, ( NOT as a fire escape route for the shop btw ). As the owner of the shop will reside upstairs eventually, she wanted to be able to enter via the shopfront and go up to her flat from there, rather than go to the isolated rear entrance to gain access where she felt a little vulnerable late at night. The shop access option also means only one flight of stairs to deal with then too. Smoke ventilator is at the very top of this stairwell, but as this primary means of escape passes the sole means of escape for the downsairs flat too I think they've ( BC ) gone for it as a requirement. Sprinklers already spec'd in the top flat, plus we've now put heads throughout the stairwell too, ( installers insisted on that as BCO basically puts the risk assessment in the hands of the designer aka installer ), plus protected fire lobby's !! I'd really thought that sprinklers would have negated the internal fd30's for the protected lobby at the very least, and we'd have been OK with just the fd60 front door at the top of the stairs......but no . I think the fact that we're doing an attic conversion up there has tipped that scale, as the property is now proposed as a 2-up 1-down from pavement level. We'll have to fire board and skim the two main ceilings in the shop too, and add smoke and heat detectors before getting a completion certificate for the upper flat. Getting a part-completion cert next week for the ground floor one, ( temporary certificate of habitation ? ) so the owner can move in down there whilst I complete upstairs. Question : Regarding the smoke velux, my sparky informs me that they come with the inastllarion kit, including controls etc and break glass. Anyone know if that's right, or any bits of kit I might be missing that I'll need to complete the job? Just for laughs :- My sparky told me a story, when prompted by my enquiry. He went to look at a job with a smoke ventilator window, which had been abandoned by its electrician. All finished but needed a little tweaking and signing off. With nobody sure how the smoke ventilator was operated he investigated further. The flexible cable for the smoke window could easily be seen, leaving the window and entering the adjacent wall, but no outlet plate / other. My mate tugged on the cable and it popped out in his hand. It had not been made off!!! The previous sparky thought it would be nice to charge for doing it, but had only cut the lead short, drilled a hole in the wall, and shoved the end in to make it look finished. Nice chap, considering it was a 3-story HMO

Nothing wrong with that TBH. ?

Any idea of cost ?

A bit more about these fuel cell generators if you could please @JSHarris Anything like a super-silenced ethanol IC engine for R/C models?

One ceramic kitchen sink I had to knock the tap hole out of ( part pressed out either side so it's universal left / right drainer ) said exactly that . Go from the top, put a drift or large centre punch on the ceramic and whack it with a hammer. Some paperwork got signed before I did, but sure enough it popped out with nearly no breakout and only needed a bit of reaming with my tile file to get it spot on. Arse was going that day.

If there's room for a full depth trap then I'd swap it out now tbh. That trap is a compact under slung trap for dog leg baths, ( where the pipework can be seen from underneath ), but, iirc, your bath sits flat on the floor ? If so you simply don't need that one and can return it for a credit hopefully. Youll already ( ? ) have the waste outlet I assume so this is only a matter of which trap to fit, so I'd go for a nice robust trap like this one and fit'n'forget .