Nickfromwales

Standard / rapid charger? Don't they only do one? All COLD 3ah batteries should charge in 22 mins or so ? @JSHarris had a link to his tried and tested Micky mouse ones .

@j_s You can't go thicker than 300mm really with wool as it crushes down under its own weight at 400mm. Wool relies on it being uncompressed to achieve its stated values, so after 300mm your just wasting time effort and ? for no additinal reward. ? Cellulose has far more benefits so I'd go that way TBH.

Airtightness is only on the outside cassettes so different reasons for that approach vs internal room dividers. In contrast, I have NEVER seen one built that way. Always joists, then deck for a walking platform and additional lateral restraint, then upper walls done ( regardless if they're built on site or cassettes ). @bissoejosh I can only assume this is for instances where the underlying joists are running parallel to the walls in question, as if perpendicular then they'd be traversing the joists anyway. It goes without saying that it should be 22mm deck if there are any 'floating' walls. The norm, in exceptional circumstances, is to provision an additional joist directly where the stud wall is to lay, thus taking the load. An alternative, if the stud wall is dead centre of the void in between two joists, so is 'floating', is to fit full size noggins, ( or "dwangs" if your from a different persuasion ), at 600mm centres to provide a brace. Your BCO should accept that in a heartbeat, but you don't say if the joists are to be 600 or 400mm centres? All I can tell you is if your designer has them at 600mm then pay extra and beef up to 400's as the difference in the feel of the floor is massively noticeable, even with additional strong-backs it's obvious that there's deflection.

Result ?

And twice the DHW flow rate if the cold mains will allow it. .

Is yours a 5-wire? If so then it's a match.

When working on the Royal Fleet Auxiliary contracts we tested until it hurt, but that was 17 years ago and I was on £54k basic so didn't care

If you know where all the cables start and end, then it's not really ever practiced in real life, ( but every time we second fix and everything switches on nicely first time, we do breathe a sigh of relief ). .

I searched for that and drew a blank. Rail was the missing key word.........bugger. Cheers @Onoff

Where does the neutral come from or don't you know ? Does th switch have the neutral there, connected together so it goes to the fitting ?

?. Second thoughts.......leave the pv ?

Sun will remain in the sky, but oil prices are only going to go up and up. .

Yup. With a quench system it's ( the WBS/BB ) seen as a sealed and pressurised arrangement which you can fully pump eg any pipe run should be feasible as long as normal disciplines are observed, like air release valves at the highest points etc. If you have such a plentiful supply of dry seasoned wood available, and routinely burn regardless, then I'd 100% get a WBS/BB fitted and go for a bigger TS. Your summer standing losses will increase slightly as you'll be storing more water, but you can lower the boiler flow temp a little to help there, plus, as I've said, I'd really think of pv to offset these latent losses. Youll have to manage the burns to suit your storage, e.g. no point in having a roaring fire heating water that can't be stored anywhere, plus you may want to fit a huge K2 ( double ) radiator in the garage or outhouse for heat dump, pumped from the TS controlled by a dedicated high limit stat. That should stop your quench system doing overtime as you should design now to limit that functions requirement, other than it operating as a terminal / failsafe. Doesn't matter if it means a super long pipe run to the heat loss rad, but fitting one is imo a very good idea. You could put a clothes airer above it on the garage for drying towels etc in the winter so it's functional too.

MCS ?

As an aside, for the sake of 15mm why not get a 1700 bath and lose that horrible gap at the end ? You can cut into the wall and bury the non-business end with relative ease.

All subject-relevant though tbh . When you understand all the peripherals / diversities you can better understand how fitting the plenums in different locations can be practically and effectively achieved.

+1 and what I would have done.

After re-reading, I'd seriously reconsider this TBH, and try to at least fit a non-MCS system now, maybe just 2kw, so your cabled out and can upgrade in the future with more panels and MCS sign off if necessary. You can still export to the grid, but you need to contact the DNO for that arrangement / it's feasibility. Offsetting the losses from the TS and covering your background electricity consumption would be a wise choice if this property will be your snuff-box.

Yes. The UFH manifold must have a pump to circulate the water through the TMV and back into the loops. No need for a pump to get from the TS to the manifold as it'll pull through by itself, unless it's the most adverse run in history. In most cases yes, but a lot here from our days at Ebuild http://www.ebuild.co.uk/topic/14379-thermal-store-advice-comments/page__fromsearch__1 Worth a read.

That would be too easy ??

You can add a "flue boiler" to an existing wood burner ( if it isn't already a wood burning stove with back boiler ). Random internet grab for example only A TS is exactly the kind of medium that would be required when integrating multiple heat sources, so yes, you could. The question is can I afford to do it and would it be both practical and economical to do so . It's a twat of a job to retrofit this, but you can get a WBS with a BB off the shelf that can have a pumped flow and return on a sealed circuit ( so can be pumped left / right / up / down without gravity constraints ), plus has no need for open header tanks and all that faff as they are cooled by a cold mains 'sprinkler' which cools them down accordingly if they boil or overheat etc. @djvasey, David, any feedback on yours? Oh and for the UFH manifold...... Are the runs way over 100m in length if you don't put the manifold in the middle? If centralising the manifold is easier then by all means do it, but running insulated flow and return pipework between the TS and the manifold is in no way problematic.

Just rang Grant and they no longer do a true heat-store combi. Ones of yesteryear had a TS inside the boiler with a DHW coil and had fantastic DHW flow rates, but now they use an integral TS to collect heat for a DHW plate heat exchanger, BUT if not used to its max output it still suffers from short cycling, ( made even worse if you specify the largest 36kw model and only run a basin hot tap for eg ), plus you'd still need a buffer for the UFH. System boiler and TS seems the way forward. You could still consider a stand alone buffer for the UFH, so only heated seasonally, and a separate UVC for DHW. No reason you couldn't do that, and decrease your summer nuisance heat loss / cost. If the wife likes a nice warm airing cupboard then the TS will provide that year-round.

+1 As it's a year round heat battery, eg you need it hot all summer just for DHW, it stays hot 24/7/365 for DHW + space heating. Storing at lower set temp means lower standing losses but that can only be achieved by going bigger in capacity. @Tin Soldier Is pv in or out of the equation?

Deffo a system boiler as it's all in one box For a TS you will get a great price off Trevor@ cylinders2go. Just mention the forum and my username and he will quote you happy. 07939 996940. To proceed with an order you'll need to know tank size ( capacity in L ), DHW coil size 22mm or 28mm ( bigger is better ), number of tappings and what they're for, number and size of immersion heaters ( e.g. 2 x 3kw etc ) and number of thermostat pockets ( usually only one for the cylinder thermostat if a system boiler ), so get your ducks in a row here first . You don't need to go any bigger with the TS as circa 300-350l will give you a decent buffer size for DHW sustain, have enough volume to heat transfer linear to two showers being run or a bath + 1 shower etc without a drop in DHW performance, ( subject to the boiler heating the TS on demand via the cyl stat ), and be big enough to get long solid burns from the oil boiler. That will allow you to set it up to maximise on efficiency and get flow temp into the optimum condensing range. Oil like to burn long and hard, and they don't modulate like gas does, hence the red flag about short-cycling.

@Tin Soldier Go with a TS, mainly because of the mix of space heating types you have means you don't really have much option as your on oil. Go for 300- 350L and you'll be able to sustain nigh on constant instant high flow ( ~20Lpm ) DHW to the house. Size the boiler ~26kw and that will suffice. I recently did a Grant 21/26 with a 500L TS and that would run the bath and a shower simultaneously with ease, plus enough DHW capacity to get a reasonable flow from the kitchen hot tap too. That install was fortified with a cold mains accumulator ( 300L ) so you do need a good cold mains to get good DHW flow, so bear that in mind. The interconnecting pipework all needs insulating well and all the different flows need a motorised valve to arrest nuisance convection circulation which otherwise leads to a huge amount of heat loss. Put the TS where the waste heat is useful, eg airing cupboard, rather than an utility room if possible, and go for an external oil boiler. You'll save the space and avoid smell / grot when access is required for servicing. ? If you have pv then great as that'll help offset and losses and will contribute to the heating / hot water when generating.