Nickfromwales

If it were me, and the tank IS going begging, then id use it as a buffer, fill it with brine, bite the bullet on the anti-freeze and ditch the PHE / pump / controls and the extra losses they'll generate, and use the buffer for DHW preheat. You'll be making most of your DHW at FAR higher CoP then, so a winner imo as DHW will be your biggest consumer of energy. Factor in the PV and you've got a top notch solution there. Also, you'll need a much smaller UVC then too. If ever designing my own system, id go for a lot of low grade storage for DHW pre-heat, and prob feed a 6kw sunamp for the final 'lift' rather than an UVC. Yup

All TS's are ( should be ) unique to each application, loaded with tappings / coils etc to suit, and most of the cylinders I buy are bespoke / made to order. This one is a one-type-suits-all and is covered in open tappings. The boiler doesn't feed this via a coil in this instance, it's direct. I thought I saw a diagram with a coil but @PeterW corrected that and I looked a bit further and, yes I'm as shocked as you are, he was right. The only coil in this TS is the ST. Good news is that the ST coil is right at the bottom, so virtually any heat produced by the TS would be useful, but the ST temp probes ultimately dictate when the ST will turn on, governed by the mid range temp. As said, the ST will only pump into the tank when it is going to be of use, eg it won't pump if it's cooler than the portion of the TS that it's temp sensors are monitoring. One key reason that stratification helps out there eg to keep the lower portion cool and take advantage of whatever ST gain is available.

It does but it's not the tightest of fits. Ive seen these multiquicks in all shapes and states of butchery TBH, so they do hold. For some of them, how, I just don't know.

You could cheat and send the heat back through the DHW coil thats already in it It'll be a juicy coil so should work fine.

Welcome to the madhouse Bill. UFH gets laid to suit you mate so put the manifold where you like and pipe back to it accordingly. The trade off is having to run extra loops to the furthest zone to cover the same ares but without exceeding ( ideally ) 100m in length per loop. Panic ye not about cold spots from the returns, its not going to happen Why not reduced the concrete oversight, or do away with it altogether? I favour more insulation and more compacted stone, bearing in mind the reinforcing mesh for most here is in the upper screed with the ufh pipes zip-tied to it, killing a few birds with one stone. Id want a minimum of 150mm / 200mm of PIR under a heated floor. Solar thermal or solar PV please? More on the other heating / hot water stuff when we know that. You need take a max static cold mains pressure reading over 24hrs, and also the litres per min flow rate at the outside tap. Fit a non return valve to the pressure gauge so whatever the peak reading is overnight will be left on the display. Critical survey criteria thats necessary before looking at an accumulator.

Deffo a TS. Id say 300l at a guess, possibly 350l.

Cant you push back on the standard one 10-15mm and then just lean the cistern back the last 10mm so it can be affixed? Thats what I'd do. Thats not an extension as such, and if you push that into another pan connectors then you have rings sitting inside rings, rather than rings being compressed against a circular wall. Ive done it where there has been no other choice, but its not ideal at all.

You may do better to ring the technical dept of the boiler manufacturer and ask them what would cause such an event. Definitely sounds like the 'engineer' has done something wrong. Is the temperature dial set as it was before?

Yup. Cheers for uploading that. That flushing body bridges hot to one outlet and cold to the other outlet so you can simply cap off the outlets at the point they become exposed, eg the outlet for the handset / spray and the outlet for the rainfall head and pressure test the lot. At that stage your first fix should be complete so no further interruption to the pipework should be necessary. Once happy theres no leaks, you remove the cap ends after tiling and fit some lengths of push fit pipe into the capped off outlets and then run water through each to flush the lot immediately prior to fitting the thermostatic gubbings.

There'll be 2 now Hi and welcome. Please use the tags at the top of the first post to add search info and folk will find it easier to get to your content. Search under timber frame for some of the conversion stuff, but under barn conversions is a good place to put things if its a barn conversion ! Enjoy, and read....a lot

Makes my spine shiver. Let me get your coat

Ok. With so much storage at the higher cell range, do you really think you need the gas boiler? Already having the ASHP would have made me kick the gas into touch for sure. Do you have PV? Also valve 'T' ( 49-55oC ) is that a TMV? Ive designed two so far with a HR pump but ive decided to pulse heat into the hot loop ( via a stat on the hot manifold in those specific cases ) rather than run for any duration.

Hi. It probably the valve body not the head, and the noise is probably oscillation. Is there noise coming from the boiler? If not, its not kettling so the problem is elsewhere. To work out what your hot water would be like from a combi, run your outside tap full and take 25% off that. Thats based on a typical scenario and a 28kw combi. Rough as toast estimate but it won't be far off FWIW go for the combi change, your gas bill will drop like a rock. A great boiler is the Baxi Duotec 28kw, fit and forget. Go for the platinum if you want the longer warranty but you have to use an accredited installer. Dont let them charge you extra for the privilege as its a day long course

7.2 if its a greenstar ?

Your plumber was correct. Pointless going bigger than 24 tbh. Your worst case will be heating the house from cold and fully recharging both tanks so 24 is pretty much spot on. Its only worth going for a huge boiler if its a TS, so you can near constant DHW by matching the TS inout and output Plus it'll module down to prob 6kw too.

Hi and welcome. Come out of the dark, and into the light brother 998

No grasslin clock sized hole in the boiler case though?

No shit Sherlock.

PMSL.

The sunny boy Micros seem cheap enough on the interweb.

75m2 would have roughly enough space for 47 panels so youve got plenty of space !!!

Theres always a tin bath and kettle you know

Whats the latest on the future of FiT payments? This would be a relatively easy DIY install with the floor mounts and micro inverters.

Bingo. And no penetrations too.