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Nickfromwales

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Everything posted by Nickfromwales

  1. Nickfromwales
    The question is do you give the hinges to the glass Co for them to template and drill? Youll need a small gap as the glass can NEVER touch the floor. Also you ideally would want the shower tray / wet area to be outside of the glass so the inevitable splashes that would get underneath still find their way, naturally, to the drain. You could fit a small deflector trim at the bottom of the glass which would reduce that significantly, and they're cheaply and readily available so you can change it later if it gets worn.
  2. Nickfromwales
    Nice way to approach the elderly. Would have been nice to record that and go to the media with it. ?
  3. Nickfromwales
    Bugger. Was just about to merge this with the amputated toe thread ☹️
  4. Nickfromwales
    Me too. Letters, then calls, and then a bombardment of texts.....how did they get my bloody mobile number !?!
  5. Nickfromwales
    Isn't that their problem not yours? Yes, sorry, just re-read this. So is the short & narrow connecting piece 22mm / 3/4"? If so I doubt you'll get much better, as the size of the tapping at the main will be no bigger.
  6. Nickfromwales
    If you ever do try to drill through toughened glass, please video it for my sick pleasure .
  7. Nickfromwales
    Happy days. You are now fully qualified. But now I've forgotten what the question was
  8. Nickfromwales
    Glass on 2 sides, or tiles 3-sides round with glass on the front only ?
  9. Nickfromwales
    Some waffle here.
  10. Nickfromwales
    Looks like 32mm MDPE x 15mm / 1/2" to the meter. Not usually a problem as the issue is the resistance of the ongoing pipe to the property.
  11. Nickfromwales
    Cracking price for brushless and 2 x 5 ah.
  12. Nickfromwales
    Its been said a few times here that a difference of 100mm or so in ridge height would not be argued by Planners.
  13. Nickfromwales
    Never heard of S size before tbh. If its a basin tap, its usually fit ( proportionate ) for a basin. If you dont want to limit the choice of taps, just order what you like with the rod at the back, and then bin it for a pop up or flip-coin waste. A drop of clear CT1 into the 'rod hole' stops water dripping down it during cleaning.
  14. Nickfromwales
    Nice blog, and an equally nice build for a renovation
  15. Nickfromwales
    Is that a tee your referring to? 25mm 'centre' eg 32mm through bore and a 25mm branch coming off at 90o would be called by the two ends first, then the centre, so 32x32x25 If your saying the supply pipe reduces in size then increases again, that needs sorting.
  16. Nickfromwales
    Cool. Now all you have to do is wipe that chuffing rise and fall malarky out of your mind and crack the feck on with boarding and tiling. If you stay focussed it can be done for xmas........THIS xmas. Imagine going in there JUST to jump in the bath with a beer and the bluetooth. FOCUS damnit. FOCUS!!!!
  17. Nickfromwales
    Here you go Dave 4 Lpm will have the girls out of the shower in no time at all
  18. Nickfromwales
    Some BS survey once quoted "Music in the workplace saw an increase in productivity of ~13%", so the radio should therefore reduce your slab to around 153m2 "Step away from the vibrating doo-dah".....Just pour and relax. Gravity, and the correct mix is your friend. ?
  19. Nickfromwales
    Could read...... "Maybe a vibrating plate would help f**k things up???"
  20. Nickfromwales
    Youll need one person mixing the slurry into a half full bucket, whilst you pour one. That'll take the ache out of backache. A bit anyhoo
  21. Nickfromwales
    Ok, and agree that there are problematic porcelains out there too. Its down to doing the legwork tbh. The Jura will let you know when its in need of sealing again usually, as the tile will start to absorb and retain surface moisture much more than when its sealed and the sealer is "intact". Nowt wrong with sealing once a year etc as tbh its just a lint-free cloth and a bit of elbow grease. An average bathroom floor should be cleaned and re-sealed in less than an hour or two. A good exchange here Lithofin And product info here
  22. Nickfromwales
    Typical install is; Incoming 15mm copper / other supply pipe. Then 15mm 1/4 turn isolation ( full bore will be the quietest but a normal ballofix will usually suffice ). Then out of that with a short section of 15mm copper. Then into a 15mm x 1/2" chrome copper to iron fitting. Then your chosen ( manufacturer supplied ) flexi goes onto the last, rather than straight onto the ballofix which some do but its wrong ( sharp cone fitting as opposed to the flat face of the iron, therefore no damage to the flexi rubber seal ). The insert flow restrictor goes into the 15mm side of the iron fitting, as the ballofixes simply dont have the depth after the olive.
  23. Nickfromwales
    If a DC setup is available on the market then those implications will have already been considered and mitigated against in the design of the end equipment ? No consumer should have to consider such safety implications, thats down to the manufacturers is it not?
  24. Nickfromwales
    You MUST fill the obvious, and not so obvious voids with the S/C packing first, or the slurry will just drop through. Fill everywhere half full on the first pass and leave for 15 mins. Then go around with a bucket of the S/C mix packing where its obvious the slurry has started disappearing. Leave the first slurry to go a bit harder, prob an hour max, and then go for the final pass. Thats how to be sure you'll get no gaps whatsoever. Necessary to go so nuts? Not sure, but id be doing it if it was my build.
  25. Nickfromwales
    Flow restrictors or actual inline valves? These are what I normally fit, available with a choice of litres per minute restriction 3 / 5 / 7 / 9 etc
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