Nickfromwales

BCO in Dorset said no too. It’s a dying facility me thinks.

But you’re a special case, so we make allowances. ??

+1. If the tanking has been on long enough to get some surface dust on it, just clean it lightly with a damp sponge prior to laying on. I use a grout float to butter the tanking with the tile adhesive ( rubber edges trowel ) about 1M2 at a time and then you’re guaranteed a great bond. Do that for the 1st metre of the wall, and then you can fall back to just a wipe and laying by bedding the tile only ( depending upon how flat the walls are of course ). Do not EVER consider using acrylic ( ready made in a tub ) adhesive over tanking ( ask me how I know how that goes lol ). 3 days later, porcelain tile, acrylic adhesive ( bragged up by the Ultra area rep ) and over tanking, and when I removed the supports to cut the lowest course in all the tiles slid down the wall ?. Cementitious products ONLY over tanking, especially with porcelain ?

I only fit Brink now, excellent products. I can heartily recommend CVC ventilation for supply of the Brink stuff. They have their own in house PH certified specialist and their design services are spot on.

Indeed. I recall some time ago having a conversation with a client where she baulked at paying the higher amount for a PH certified heat & cool MVHR unit ( sub 30db ) and staying “I’m not paying that it’s unjustifiable. I’ll have the cheaper unit and put up with it” so exactly the case of “you get what you pay for”. Can’t have a champagne job on lemonade money, sorry. ? Probably good to note here that retrospectively ‘silencing’ a cheap MVHR unit with bolt-on silencers is nonsense, as that does nothing to attenuate the noise from the MVHR unit itself. That only reduces audibility at the supply and extract terminals, so if the audibility at the terminals is acceptable then you’re stuck with the decision to purchase a cheaper / noisier unit. Also; It’s easy to tell if your MVHR installer has fitted the required ( primary ) silencer. It’s usually a large silver foil flexible section coming off the MVHR unit ‘fresh’ aka ‘supply’ outlet off the unit. They are lined with a fluffy material that immediately absorbs sound and stops it getting to the rooms as nuisance ‘noise’. If you have one of those, then you have a technically complete installation. Buying other bolt-ons at that stage will be utterly pointless.

Ok. We’re getting somewhere ?. Agreed. Any last thoughts folks before this becomes read-only? ?. “Say now, or forever hold my piece.......” @zoothorn, good luck with moving forward. . Keep your chin up and your ? together ?.

We don’t bother vertically tbh, but horizontally and especially overhead then it’s just good practice tbh. Deciding what is or isn’t an egress / escape route is a judgment call I don’t want to make. Being behind plasterboard ( ceilings ) is of zero consequence for discounting this rule afaic, but sense can prevail as to how many bands are fitted and where, but taking 90 degree bends through superstructures helps as the changes in direction will arrest the fall to some extent too.

Yup. Speak to Byron. Just beware asking for designs as a member here had less than good results when they designed their UFH layout. They may have their ducks in a row now though as that was a while back. I used to buy all my UFH pipe and consumables from them, quite competitive.

Not likely ! I already have plenty to keep him busy......for about a year lol ?

Ok, it’s pretty much a single standard for clipping ( banding ) but as I said you can cheat if there are pozi joists and you run through the points where the two metal webs converted on the lower chord. ?. Now the 18th Ed refreshers are out and most sparks have sat it and are fluent, it’s things like this which are now getting reiterated whereas before most sparks treated it as ‘optional’ or done to attain a gold star. My lead electrician has just done his 18th / peripheral refreshers and is now ‘on point’ in all these matters of elastictrickery. ?

Distances between clips ( you need to know the regs old bean ). Who is going to sign this off? They need to witness all this and should be advising you !!!

You’ve drained the chuffing thing so many times it’ll be like Evian by now ?. +1. Contamination is moot afaic if there’s a filter in place and the water is correctly chemically treated. LLH all the way for me. Hydraulic separation is way OTT here sorry.

Wouldn’t a decent LLH suffice here? Example

Not quite. There’s a bit more ‘science’ to it than that.

Not when it’s wrapped around your regulator and you can’t reach it. And you’re in a burning building. That’s why the fire brigade brought about this legislation

Any chuffing cables. C’mon batman. THINK DAMNIT! ( please ) lol ?

Because you didn’t say please.... it’s a tool station link ✌️ Bingo

Tray is WAY OTT in a domestic situation, and still does not negate banding.

Banding. All round band ( plastic coated ) is what we use, or you can run cables through open web pozi-joists where the two metal webs meet at the bottom. That’s classed as safe, as in the fire brigades interpretation, as in the cables can’t fall down and entangle one of our finest in the event of a fire.

What he meant to call them was “ibox”’s. Pretty nifty bits of kit and more robust than BoJo’s plans for a swift exit.

About the size of a big shoe box for mains pressure, a bit bigger, or even two units if it’s gravity with the pump module. You can run the pipe as far as is practical, but you’ll have to extend the signal cable that goes between the remote control ( in the bathroom ) to the unit.

Ok. A digital mixer shower is a box that goes under the bath or in the attic / airing cupboard ( or ‘hot press’ if you’re a big lover of potato’s ) and takes a hot and cold feed ( can be mains pressurised with solenoids or gravity fed with pumps, all integral of said box ) and mixes both feeds into one “digitally-controlled” output. That single pipe output emerges in the bathroom as the riser rail / shower head feed. Simples. Do not confuse these with ‘mixer / power showers’ as they’re chalk and cheese.

I like the tray, and same for the glass arrangement. ?. The drain is nothing to worry about as it’s still technically a “self-cleaning” trap ( which means it’s user-serviceable ). Buy it with a credit card seems the safest bet here as the feedback isn’t great.

All you need is a good electrician / electrical contractor and this type of consideration will be in-built. I cannot believe the amount that some folk pay for such services!! Understandable in commercial applications, but a bit OTT for the average domestic client AFAIC. On my current electrical projects I have helped the clients with their lighting design to a point where their architects have commented that the end result is something they're very impressed by, both executed and proposed. Some other instance I've seen have been just ugly, and impractical, with a huge expected overspend on dimming packs / scene setting and more.

I've seen countless immersions on copper tanks etc over the years that are running off FCU's, and many have been in for donkeys years. I'm not a fan of a 20a supply feeding an immersion circuit, and would go to 16a max in most cases. The majority of issues come from poor quality hardware or poor connections, and the use of bootlace Ferrules in all that we do mitigates against such issues. To get to 253v you would need to be in a densely populated area with a lot of the occupants generating with PV, so not really relative as that would apply to everything consuming electricity at that time. If anything the grid often drops below not above the permissible voltage.