Nickfromwales

I routinely double-up on anything that looks remotely adverse, particularly to bedrooms, and the doubled run also makes for a slightly quieter solution also. Another thing to consider is two runs, but single runs to two ceiling valves instead of two runs to a single valve. I often do that in kitchens where the extract 'area' was large and it was better to cover more area. Again, a quieter solution especially when on boost. Good to remember when the kitchen / bathrooms boost the whole house boosts with it, as there is only one fan group servicing the whole system at a unified speed eg boost rate or trickle rate.

6 and two 3's by the look of it, just the IVAR has an in built bypass whereas the Emmeti doesn't appear to have one. Components include: Grundfos Secondary Underfloor pump Remote sensor holder Upper body Lower body Manifold 1″ connection fittings Thermometer Primary by-pass valve Secondary by-pass valve Thermostatic head SKU: PUT-IV-UNIMIX.IV Categories: Home Page, UFH Pump Control Pack - Underfloor Heating Pump Mixer Kit Related products

Is this gravity hot water from an 'old-school' copper tank, or pressurised from a combi / unvented cylinder?

Never had any of my installs squeak, and some have been in ( over timber / suspended floors ) for nearly a decade. Tiles were atop for some instances, and zero cracks whatsoever. It's down to the fitter IMHO, so choose the tiler well.

Just remember to discharge the waste into the same foul water gully and not to another that services rainwater, as unless it's a combined sewer system you need to run black ( foul ) and grey ( waste water ) into the foul sewer network only. You don,t want food waste going into a rainwater soak-away. Dropping down with the hot and cold is fine, but a more convoluted run. I would minimise the amount of 15mm hot water pipework between boiler and sink so you don't wait too long to get hot water at the sink.

Put the house down enough to clear the first bend, if there's one, and let it rip. 9-11 L/P/M is a reasonable shower output and a builders black bucket is around 11L so one of them every minute or less and your'e good to go.

Why use anything over the board? No need for a backer board as far as the website states. And what is the suggested make up? If you have 50mm to play with then; 20mm overlay = 20mm total depth 15mm tile = 35mm total depth 3mm of tile adhesive under the backer board = 38mm total depth 6mm backer board = 44mm total depth adhesive under 15mm thick tiles? or included in the 15mm? What numbers do you have for this? Is the 50mm non-negotiable? If you had a little more then you could go for aluminium spreader plates over 18mm battens with a 18mm P5 board and decoupling mat atop that + tiles ( but would likely come out closer to 60mm ).

I'll be up for another BBQ shortly

It should really be a Y-branch to promote flow towards the...... ....."inspection chamber" aka manhole. The difficulty may be getting a Y-branch in and the subsequent 135 degree single socket bend then required to rectify back to vertical to accept the WC connection.

and a cheaper example; VS £110 lol. eg

+1 on the OSB doing nothing. It may even make things worse.

The JG Super Seals do. 2 o-rings that are on the stalk of the insert, and one around the large rim of the insert which seals to the inside of the fitting itself. They're just quite thick walled vs the slim Hep stainless insert but are pretty good as far as sealing is concerned.

If you'd seen as many of these coming loose as I have, you'd never not fit them, ( regardless of the manufacturers statements ).

I think 6 and two 3's TBH. What is the cost difference? If negligible, then let your preferred tradesman choose his own weapons

It would come with the UFH manifold not the ASHP

Most are capable of a minimum of 55oC ?!?

Get a new installer.

You MUST fit the channel onto a wet bead of CT1 / clear silicone ( I only use CT1 for this as silicone has a limited life ) otherwise water collects inside the channel and will find its way between the wall tile / panel and the tray and soak into the wall. This has to be the most common F up I see on a lot of jobs, mostly insurance claims after it's gone rotten Offer the channel up dry and hold it in place, level, and use bits of masking tape as runway markers, mark and drill holes, clean up drill dust and then set the channel aside. Then apply a generous bead of sealant down the wall ( between the masking tape so you know you have the sealant in the right place ) all the way down onto the tray, and then put a line of sealant across where the channel will sit, over-sizing that bead by about 5-10mm either side, crossing the vertical bead, and all whilst still wet. Fit the channel as above, wipe off excess at the channel / tray intersection, and then clean the wall / channel with wipes until all excess is removed. Seal the channel outer edge to the tray by rubbing a finger full of sealant on the inside of the channel and then the outside, and then clean up excess on the outside only. That will stop water getting behind or outside the channel, but will allow it to seep into the inside edge and run into the tray. Install the seal on the outside of the glass and do not silicone / other anywhere else. Leave for 24hrs and try the shower for leaks. If the compression seal is good that should be it, and water will get into the channel on the inside, run down, and out into the tray, as intended. You can seal the inside of the glass if you want to, to stop the worst of this happening, but you'll need to stop 5-10mm from the bottom to allow any trapped water to escape. I'd try it first and only seal further if required.

+1. Heating the bathroom with electric UTH ( under tile heating ) will be bloody expensive to run! Have the UTH by all means, but not as your primary heat source.

Yes, some find the Grundfos noisy but I think they must not be turning them down to the lower setting. They get delivered set to run at max IIRC for purging / commissioning so need to be set up properly for the particular duty.

Good. Ask them if they can do a screeded pitched floor and do away with a lot of the expense. All you need then is tanking and a waste / trap. Give them the money you would have spent on the tray, and I assume you'd be screeding anyways so 2 birds ( lol ) one stone.

I thought it was 'all' of them

NO and NO....it's what holds the ring with the teeth in place!! ? Without that you'd better have good buildings and contents insurance. It ONLY self tightens when the fitting compresses itself back against the flat shoulder provided by said "irrelevant twisty bit". The barrel inside the fitting is parallel edged, NOT tapered, and nothing in there is self-tightening. I suggest you buy one and take it apart and see for yourself before offering any further assumptions. Better still, ring JG and ask them how 'irrelevant' it is and get it straight from the horses mouth, or maybe they can save themselves £m's of wasted parts and labour adding it for no reason and do what Hepworth do...... They will tell you how important that 'twisty bit' actually is of course .

You offering to go there and do it? ? If not, then who is? If you can do it yourself, then yes. If not, then is it 'really' a nice quick job? @canalsiderenovation, how brave are you feeling, and how much of this are you willing to DIY?