Nickfromwales

These Hep2O inserts take very little away from the internal bore, so 10mm will be fine if each rad has a radial supply and none are Tee'd off. Very large towel rads will suffer a little, but it's ok for 'regular' sized ones.

LOOK HARDER !!

I haven’t ever needed to use them, and I have produced “exemplary” work consistently........where the tile will permit it. Where I have tiled with less than exemplary results is when a tile has a curve or ‘cup’ ( and some even dog ears ) where it is impossible to get zero lip / kickers. With a 1200mm x 1200mm tile, there may be merit in using the levelling system as at that size the tile will bend slightly. That may allow the tiler to get above expected results so I’m on the fence at that size. Without the levelling system you are 100% at the mercy of the tile. Best you choose a good tile and allow the fitter to use whatever they want to fit it, as they will be making the promise of a good quality job, not us.

The ‘head’ will be negligible though, no?

And you’ll need to do the same again. We can’t speak for them, bit technically it will be absolutely fine.

I've used it in 5-figure bathroom installations ( where the first of those 5 figures isn't a 1 ) and have never had any issue with the clear doing anything other than staying clear for the duration. Mostly high-end wet-rooms so that's where they'd get the most hammering too. White CT1 conversely is shite and goes to custard in no time at all. Agree on the other colours, they're robust too.

Without MVHR that would just recirculate the humid stale air, ( but it would be nice and cold humid stale air at least )

Yup. And yup. Sika is bloody good stuff too. Used a load of that in the marine works environment and it doesn't get much better. Just a lot of variants so you have to choose the product to fit the application. We used 251 and 252 a lot, like by the pallet, never let us down.

The issue will be short-cycling the boiler, which is likely to happen when the UFH is the only thing calling for heat and it's up to temp, or close to it. Each zone of heating ( upstairs - rads / downstairs - UFH (?)) needs its own time-clock at least, for basic heating on or off, and then thermostatic control is applied as required. Upstairs heating would be best off on a time-clock IMO as a 1st floor thermostat would e very poor reference for what is going on in individual rooms, especially if the doors to them are closed. If you install TRV's, it is in the boilers MI's that you provision a bypass, but if the two heating zones are isolated by 2-port zone valves then you need an automatic bypass before them also. If possible I would configure the system to have the UFH and towel rad(s) on the same flow and return loops ( all the UFH can still shut off heat to spaces via the dedicated room stats ) so the towel rads can help alleviate the short-cycling issue. Those towel rads would need to have lockshield valves so they cannot be turned off inadvertently. I would have a time-clock for upstairs but no thermostat, and stay as you already intend to for the UFH.

Have lots of baby wipes to hand as this stuff sticks like shit to a blanket. Nothing like the way silicone behaves so beware setting lots up for finishing at any one time.

Use clear CT1. It doesn't degrade like silicone does. It's not 'shiny' either.

Tile backer board would be equally non-perishable and a bit cheaper, no?

In a nutshell.......no. MVHR has two modes, if generic; 1) heat recovery 2) summer bypass ( so no heat recovery ) If you want cooling then you need an ASHP that you can reverse, and cooling batteries ( basically a fan coil ) that will allow the air to the supply valves to be sent through what is essentially a car radiator in a box which has cooled water flowing through it. Above that, you will need air con. Depends upon if you're 3 storey or 2 story, and how you sleep at night in a slightly hotter house than you'd like.

Tidy. You can now spend 6 months and £400 making motorised titanium legs for it

That's cheaper than shoplifting

Is the bath panel completely water-tight? Is the floor covering sealed and water-tight where the floor meets the walls? I think you are seriously over-thinking this and would recommend that you fit something such as the wall covering material ( if it's in a shower or splash-back around a bath then it must be water-resistant ) and just do a good job of sealing it up at the end.

Is this membrane over timber frame plus brick exterior? If so, then the ties will be part of what holds the membrane in place also.

Should add that I put metal roof panels atop and when the rain hits it hard it’s loud. So much so that I’m going to fit acoustic insulation in the ceiling and put 15mm sound block plasterboard up just in the 1m x 3.6m bit. Should stay a little warmer in winter too. I’ll probably get around to doing that when I can’t feel my fingers any more.

300mm gets you to PH levels so I’m also an advocate of dig a little deeper and fill it up with EPS. PIR is just so much more expensive to get a little thinner.

My office at home is 1000mm x 3600mm as the last 1m of my 6m man-shed. The door is central with the window opposite and then desk / PC / whiteboards to left, files and an A3 & A4 printer to the right. As above I just used breather membrane and stapled the life out of it to get it draught-proof and rain tight, and I've not bothered with insulation. A 1500W fan heater warms the space in minutes on it's lowest setting ( 750W thermostatically controlled on the fan heater ( cost £10 )) and as I haven't run the SWA to it yet, all running off the patio outside socket off a 13a extension lead. OSB3 internals and painted white ( water based gloss from B&Q 'own brand' £13 for 5L ) and OSB3 T&G floor with garage floor paint for a clean finish and a bit of vapour control. Suits me fine but looked like a small space on graph paper. Turned out great. Peace and quiet is priceless.

32mm DuoPrimo underground every tme for me, and 28mm above ground, to a low loss header for unrestricted flow switch operation, is my benchmark. For the minimal uplift in costs it just isn’t worth counting bends and working out other such adversities afaic to warrant using 22mm. If the ASHP is more or less back-to-back with the plant location then it could be agreed that the uplift was unnecessary. You'll save very little going to 22mm, so go for 28mm IMO.

Hep is available in 6m lengths too. Quite handy for small projects where you don' want to buy a big coil but want to traverse a room / space without intermediate joints. eg

So they can "bleed" more cash out of you of course!

OK, so not one of my best ideas then maybe

You'll eventually have one of these kits fitted for filling and expansion + PRV;; So you get the pressure reading for the whole heating system from here, typically.