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Everything posted by Nickfromwales
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Perfectionism, finishing quality and builders
Nickfromwales replied to ReX's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
Were you sniffing around for loose change?!? ( again ) -
Nowhere near enough puff with that, guv.
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Good girl.
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Only if it’s a clear over a very tight cut / gap. Otherwise I have always said grout then seal. And can we leave your mum out of this now? She’s trying to get some rest.
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A real pita to hook out when the cosmetic silicone needs refreshing. The grout is fundamental and the silicone sacrificial.
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Your momma sure does care about your schooling, Forrest Will you CT1 every other grout line? No. So don’t CT1 those ones. Simples.
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Do NOT attempt to use CT1 as a finish product. Use silicone. Grout the 3mm gaps and sponge them back so they’re just a little concave. Then silicone. CT1 should only ever be on show when it’s the clear one and around a shower glass, or at the wall / floor junction over a grout. Silicone everywhere else. Mapei do a great range of colours, and NoNonsense from screwies is ok too. Grout in the corners first, now I’m off back upstairs. Keep the noise down.
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STHIL one in CNS Power Tools was less than £100. I use it to vacuum sites after drilling timbers for 1st fix. Works a treat.
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A ‘tent’ of that size will likely need one or two poles to ground ( which would be on top of your roof ). Scaff with poly tent or tarp would be your only choices afaic. A tarp will cave in and fail unless supported by horizontal poles, lots of them, and they’d need supporting so you’re back to scaff. Accept, move on, conquer, and get to the next bit
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Try doing that lol. Just use kitchen roll to plug the flexi until it’s outside then lay it on its back to drain it fully.
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Perfectionism, finishing quality and builders
Nickfromwales replied to ReX's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
Qualifications fall out of cornflake boxes nowadays, and then these beauties simply dry off the milk and instantly decide that’s the trade they’ll self-nominate themselves “good to go with’, then promptly head to B&Q or Argos for some plastic tools, and present themselves to the public to do that job. The fact they’ve zero experience or time served apprenticeship behind them seems to do little to deter them, especially when they’ve shared a pint in a pub with these trades folk, and have seen them counting their spoils, and think “oooo, I’ll have some of that”. Some guys have not even lasted a day with me. Plain to see they have zero pride, zero give a f.uck and zero basic knowledge. Plus it pisses the others off to see them asking for the same daily rate when they’re nowhere near as competent. Customers can be idiots too, chipping away at prices ( and then crying that the job is not champagne quality on lemonade money ) and those are the ones I despise. Establishing your expectations is paramount, if you’re as particular as the OP appears to be ( rightly so ) but assumption or lack of clear understanding of what is required ( before a single nail gets knocked in ) will leave lots of wiggle room for arguing after the ship has sunk. -
Clearly you've already started on the Lambrini.......
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Jurassic arse
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Swearing is one thing.....but lying now too ?!?
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Water pipe depth - urgent!
Nickfromwales replied to Dreadnaught's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
Under, deffo NOT OK to come above, and a bit worrying that he would suggested it tbh!! -
Its only based on one type of base load, IIRC, and was an odd set of hoops to jump through. A bit of a converse way to get somewhere AFAIC.
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Renewable Energy Ratio. What % of the consumed electricity will be offset by self ( eg mirco ) generation. We got 37% on that job which was apparently very good.
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GRP (God-awful Rubbish Period)
Nickfromwales commented on canalsiderenovation's blog entry in Canalside Bungalow Renovation
He's a bit of a cock doing that in front of you unless it was in jest? -
GRP (God-awful Rubbish Period)
Nickfromwales commented on canalsiderenovation's blog entry in Canalside Bungalow Renovation
+1 on not needing it to be 'not flat'. Many GRP roofs are fitted because of this attribute. Panic yea' not. -
Seemed to be massively hung up on RER when I recently put one through ( NZEB targeted but we got it down to ZEB ).
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Was that higher than the top of the WC cistern?
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Fill the WC pan by flushing the loo gently, like part flushing it, or by filling the pan with a jug. Note the 'resting' water level. Then put a wedge of bog roll, ( folk often refer to this as 'toilet' or 'loo' roll, ( in the same way Hyacinth Bucket is pronounced bouquet lol )), and flush it fully. See if the resting water level is now down much lower, eg as low as the throat of the WC pan. If it's lower after flushing ( products + water btw is important for this test so don't be shy with 'the roll' ) then the stench will be coming from the WC.
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Not entirely, but he is using it in the wrong context. You can petition the BCO on a signed off job to take the factor of 5 or factor of 10 ( if they've been lucky in love that morning ) where OPEN vents to atmosphere are required to vent the network sewerage system and each dwelling must participate in that duty. If the BCO looks at the topology and agrees that losing the vent ( aka stench pipe ) is not going to be to any detriment then you may get permission to do away with it. NOW; As jerk-face aka your plumber has simply said you don't need one, some questions arise. 1) Is this ground or 1st floor? 2) How many bathrooms T into that one stack? Building regs will stipulate that you cannot omit an AAV on a vertically downwards discharging stack if the fall attains a drop of 1299mm or more ( from the bottom of the WC pan outlet to the bottom of the horizontal sewerage pipe at the manhole that it discharges to ) which is referred to as the "invert". The logic is, that after you discharge your Sunday roast plus 7 pints of Guinness and flush the loo, the contents of the pipe travelling south will, if travelling south for more than 1300mm, create a vacuum behind it as it falls. That creates a deficit with some welly behind it in the above waste network. That force, albeit it only momentary, literally sucks the water out of the basin / bath / shower trap ( whichever is the one with the path of least resistance ) and then that leaves a clear path from the sewer gasses in the street and your nostrils ( can be hugely exacerbated by a windy day for good measure too ). So, the issue you have is allowing a bit of air into that cycle to alleviate the 'drop''. Can be done easily by T'ing in a small AAV ( 40mm ) behind the bath panel ( 9as long as the bath is connected to the same stack in the same room as the WC ) and also, if the issue persists, the basin trap can be changed to one with an integrated mini-AAV. DIY for this is certainly do-able
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If this is a Friday night, we can (expletive deleted)ing well look out for tomorrows instalment ?
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Ufh manifold, blending valve with ASHP.
Nickfromwales replied to Russell griffiths's topic in Underfloor Heating
https://www.jtmplumbing.co.uk/central-heating-controls-valves-c436/esbe-valves-controls-solid-fuel-products-c509/mixing-valve-c511/esbe-valves-actuators-3-point-p19117/s20737?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=esbe-valves-esbe-ara652-3-point-spdt-230v-6nm-60s-actuator-esbe-valves-esbe-valves-esbe-ara652-3-point-spdt-230vac-6nm-60s-actuator-12101700&utm_campaign=product%2Blisting%2Bads&cid=GBP&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIha-U0qrw6wIVgc_tCh0Q0gfiEAQYASABEgJx4fD_BwE Liking the above setup too. Going to ask their tech support a few questions to get a proper heads up.
