Nickfromwales

That person, I’m afraid, is you. Others will spend on your behalf, sometimes on their behalf also, but always with your money. Sometimes they’ll have spent it without asking, and then just give you the bill, which will then be due in 7-14 days. QS the job yourself. Use that QS report / breakdown to get contractors to understand what is expected and what is available budget wise, and explain to EVERYONE that no extras will be paid for until known, agreed, and that the particulars agreed have been adhered to. That will serve both yourself, and the people working for you ( at any level ), extremely well indeed. It will be mutually beneficial and assure contractors that any extras they are asked to do are easily identifiable and quantifiable, ergo they’ll get paid according to what they’ve done. Get the fabric and essentials done to a good standard, fit cheap kitchens and simplify bathrooms, leave them until last, and if all has gone well you can retrospectively add to the budget for those accordingly. Welcome to the forum, and good luck with your first build. ?

1000%. Just plumb it in and worry yea not. If you’re super worried, run it in 50mm so you are guaranteed an air break over the descending fluids.

A good 4” of space gained?

I couldn’t imagine a bigger ballache / logistical nightmare tbh. You can’t ( shouldn’t ) cut into the SIPS face materiel either as they form racking strength, so any f-ups in the PIR core means abandoning that and surface mounting anyway. ( Also you can’t run cables in insulation without de-rating the breakers or upsizing the cables ( a lot ). ?.

Can't really argue with those prices, just DIY is where the savings would be, plus if plaster-boarding anyway, buying thinner ( cheaper ) frame material and retro-fitting with insulated PB would ba another way of killing two birds with one stone. However, just buying one increment up on those SIPs prices to achieve the same result and fitting PB to those ( prob over a service counter batten to allow for electrics etc ) seems a more straightforward direction. Buy insulation once, reduce heating bills forever I'd still be and advocate of A/C though, for both heating ( which should be negligible in this type of structure ) but more importantly not to cook to death in the summer ( a surprising amount of nuisance noise comes into my 'office' from just cracking open the moderate sized window ( which I have to shut to hold a business conversation ) so be mindful you may not always be able to keep the sliders open all of the time )), but I don't yet have the acoustic batts in the roof void which may help there too. I ran Cat 6 out there too, 1x for external WiFi AP which I mounted on the external 'office' wall ( so the garden now benefits from a very robust WiFi signal ), 1x for the desktop, and 1x for the network / internet printer. You could just get a cable from your existing BB router and take it to an external AP ( like a Ruckus heavy traffic unit ) and hook everything up to that. Depends on your dependency, but a hard wired cable from the desktop is way better than wireless.

Why the hatred for extraction? I’d want that to get cooking smells out, plus any excess heat / steam / humidity when doing the Sunday roast. Otherwise that’ll find it’s way into your nice shiny new home....... Id go in the ceiling and either duct out or punch out through the roof. Shortest route is always best.

Will that satisfy BRegs? Extraction needs to extract.

You cut out that pipework at the right hand corner where you can get to it. Then you got that angled union. Then you dry cut and fit the replacement pipework, then solder it away from the boiler, refit, solder the fitting at the right hand corner and job done. C’mon, four fat snakes ??

Are you looking to DIY or are you going for SIPS so you can have it made and erected from the comfort of the pub bar? I’ve done a 6m x 3.6m timber frame man shed / home office and stick built it with 4x2 walls and 5x2 rafters. Racked internally with OSB3 and same for floor. Uninsulated metal profile roof ( 6.3m long, one piece sections so no joints ) and it was cheap as chips to put up. Plenty of budget left to have the remaining voids full filled with PIR vs paying for SIPs ( but I’ve not bothered as I’ll just make it draught-proof and live with the occasional running costs of a cheap £200 split ASHP I nabbed off gumtree a while back ) and then you could also fit insulated plasterboard internally to stave off cold bridging through the studs. You could also make the walls 5x2 and the roof 6x2 or even 7x2 to allow for more insulation, if you will spend a lot of winter in there? Deffo go for the split air-con, as in the summer it will be roasting in there. Mine is nigh on unbearable, so the split will be a lifesaver for me as I’ll be working on stuff as well as ‘at the desk’. So lazy boy or DIY? You can save some serious money with DIY.

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The timer module is a bolt on iirc, had to buy one when I bought an ICON for our WC. Alternative grille down facing and no ‘flap’

Just think if you want to have to have that window for ablutions, from a security POV and also a practical POV. If it’s p*ssing down with rain and blowing a hoolie then you’ll not want to have the stink blown into / through the house would you? Look for a fan with an auto shutter ( do NOT use a back-draft shuttered one as they chatter and clap on windy days plus they will allow heat out / cold air in 24/7 ), one good unit is an ICON. Not somewhere to save money imho.

Just to add, the reg also covers cables run above false ( suspended ) ceilings. These are the biggest risk as folk just keep adding behind those Willy-nilly until you end up with a cross between a spider web and a birds nest !!

Errrr, a petrol / diesel genny? Carbon monoxide works well indoors !!!

Using the PTFE cord I linked earlier, you use the reducing bush that’s already there, and swap the angled union from straight to angled. You just keep turning until you’re happy it’s wound in sufficiently, and stop when pointing in the right direction. It will be pointing back, not up, so he can reduced the amount of ‘poky-outy’ by cutting the existing final bend off and chopping in a new one behind / in line with the boiler Plenty of cord, plenty of pipe jointing goop to lubricate, and jobs a good’un. Don’t listen to him @Onoff, he’ll have you wearing a skirt next

We use powder coated all round band routinely, more to keep the main trunk runs neat and tidy than to comply with regs, and mostly in new builds with pozi joists. Regs see a mechanically fixed ( screwed ) and plastered plasterboard as 30mins fire rated and also as a means of satisfying the arrest of falling cables. AFAIK the reg exists only fir surface mounted wiring ( where the “containment” is plastic trunking / conduit ) and then you must employ metal clips at X intervals, to reinforce the use of plastic ones in between, and in trunking you fit a metal C clip before the cables go in, mechanically fixed ( screwed etc ), and then the clip is bent to grip the bunched cables before fitting the lid on. To drill through the top or centre of joists complies, and even under-slinging in the counter batten space complies ( if boarded over / PB mechanically fixed ). With pozi joists you can run through perpendicular and rely on the web spaces where the metal webs form a gusset to comply ( even if no PB is present ). The reg also only asks for this in areas deemed means of egress / escape, so can be filtered to suit. I prefer to see heavy ‘looms” banded regardless, and we fix all the bands at locations where the cables turn 90o or spur off from the main trunk runs, and again where we run parallel with the beams eg where noggins could suffice but the bands look neater, and then you are only dealing with one discipline too so easier than cutting and fitting timber IMO. For under-slinging as you suggest, I would just use plenty of the newer metal T/E clips to sleep easy. You’re going to have to clip so may as well use FR clips

Agree. But, to keep it ‘as is’ you can just get an angled compression 1”x28mm male union, so you’re exiting the boiler parallel. Never surrender.

All the older boilers had the options of left / right flow and return.

The bends ( sets) would be quite long so I reckon you'd be better off with fittings instead. Either will do, just make sure the old stuff is cleaned well before soldering.

If tight for room, have the M&F go into your vertically rising bend, and use a second M&F to rectify ( instead of the equal M&F ). Rotating from 12 o'clock to 3 o'clock should take you from zero offset to a full pipe dia worth of offset.

From the outlet of the boiler union, use a bit of pipe, then a 45o equal bend with an M&F 45o bend directly into that, and have them ascending ( twist them ) until it's minted lamb. Then head across to the bend and up and away.

"If you don't ask, you don't get" Triton are a good company, hence the excellent after sales ( very after in your case ) service. What we call "a result". Now go have a wash please ...........

Taking the O/S taps off straight after the stopcock and before the primary PRedV will preserve the premium flow rates and will then make that available mains potential divisible between the house and the O/S taps. Best practice is to have them off the rising cold mains, BEFORE it even enters the house. Stealing that further downstream would have a much bigger impact on the flow available at the nearest outlets to where you’ve T’d off. Damn good idea. I’ve seen some folks mains peaking out at over 11 bar and things blowing up / off with catastrophic consequences. Set that to 4 bar, and then make sure the secondary one is STILL fitted at the UVC. The difference between them, the UVC one ( aka control group ) will be factory set at 3 bar, will need to be mitigated. You’ll need a single check NRV on the 22mm hot outlet of the UVC to stop back pressurisation of the UVC from the mixer taps / shower mixers etc. That is your cross to bear I’m afraid. I can only advise as to what you ‘should’ be doing, you can achieve what you can Are you trying to do as little disturbing of the property as possible? Tough nut to crack if so. You’re welcome !

I thought they might Happy days. My work here is done ✅ Bonjour!

My grandmother didn’t die in vein. I still have that hat boyo ? and you can’t go betting with it ok. ?✌️