Nickfromwales

Agreed. Which is why I say he should sample, at the joist tops, and if even a whiff of glue additional screws should seal the deal. Without samples, we don't know if the boards are glued or not. If they are, but it's minimal, the deck will have taken to the top chord. Attempting to part them would be a train wreck as the natural timber will split away and never seat back down evenly. The retro-added glue would just fill the voids and jack the floor up having the opposite to desired effect. Sample time is now, eg before any more advice is possible.

It'll be reasonably unique to each instance. System volume, pipe centres, actuators vs no actuators and so on. 100L should more than suffice as a one-size-fits-all solution tbh, but it's then down to whether it's deployed as a 'thermal store' or an 'energy buffer'.

Yes, it can be a double-edged sword. You need to pull this guy to one side, and have a quiet chat away from the build so he takes you a little more seriously. He will likely be a little more humble then too. In terms of moving forward, you now need a solid deck and nothing more really, so options need bringing to the table. IMHO you have only one option at this stage, and that is to get the builder to screw these boards down, 5 screws per 600mm joist line with them starting and finishing 50mm away from the tongues / grooves. You need to stipulate to this chap that the screws need to be JUST pulled just under flush with the top surface of the boards and not smashed through thus losing all purchase. Explain if this is done, and the floor can be walked on without squeaks etc, and he carries this out meticulously, you will be willing to settle on that middle ground. Explain to him calmly, that if that detail is not executed to the letter ( word ) then he will become responsible for removing the walls and floors and starting over again, or paying for someone else to do so after he has been asked to leave. The bar needs to be set ( or reset ) before this guy does ANY more work for you. Next. It is YOUR responsibility to make sure any 'old correspondence' is dusted off and reiterated. Every inch you give = a mile away from what you expect. Expect nothing, assume less, reiterate everything and check, check and check again.

I think you lost me at "Complete......" tbh

Ok. Time for a reality check……. Has the builder said that a glue of whatever type had been used? If he says yes, then get a 100mm hole saw and sample 4 areas ACROSS joists. Remove the pilot after the hole has been started and then you won’t penetrate the top chord of the joist. If the discs of board come loose and lift out then his bluff is called. Start there. Don’t bend and tell them you want to know without any shadow of a bout that “a glue” has indeed been used. The part that stinks the most here is the fact that the builder has said that the floor will lift!! That tells me no glue whatsoever has been used because if it had you would NOT lift that floor 1mm. Stinks of no glue to me. Call it, and get the deck samples across the pozi’s and don’t accept any more BS.

Complete and total nonsense, sorry. Please don’t give such non-comprehensive replies as it’s extremely unhelpful. Allowing for an install with both a high, and a low level cyl stat, the ASHP can be made to kick in during shower number 2. The return water temp would be higher so the HP recovery would be higher / faster. Something to consider. With PV or an E7/10 boost the tank could be heated to a premium temperature above the normal capacity @55oC. Something else to consider. Direct electric heating via the immersion ‘could’ be strategically directed purely for times where DHW was most needed. It ( the immersion(s) ) can also be used for delivering extra DHW at times of duress, which I call “guest mode” on my installs. Occupants go up to the cylinder and hit a 30 / 60 / 120 min immersion boost switch accordingly. If done an hour before duress the tank temp ( and therefore it’s sustain ) can be elevated significantly thus increasing your lower temp x 300L @ 55oC capacity to a much higher capacity in the same size cylinder. Something else to consider. People do a funny thing after showering, it’s called drying off, squirting on sweet smelling products, etc etc. They also shower typically at 38oC. Therefore that needs to be considered in the calculations for the time needed for the cylinder to recover between showers / bathing. People do a funny thing after getting in the bath too. They get into it. And then they stay there for a while. A “couple” could easily manage with a 210L UVC with some very basic disciplines. A lot of things can be taken into consideration when sizing a cylinder, and stating all those things makes for a comprehensive reply.

If it’s not made its way out there, they’ve been more than conservative with the glue for sure. It’s nigh on impossible NOT to get that displacement. If not evident, time to get proof.

Can you see displaced glue at the sides of the joists when you look up from underneath?

Can you cut it back to the 110mm stack and fit a full sized AAV? The single 50mm one will not suffice. You could fit a 50mm T and bravo off that to 2x 50mm AAV’s to max out air intake, but you really need that AAV to be 110mm for it to be effective.

Bingo.

@Adsibob You can get the slimline Geberit into a 100mm void. No issues with sound transmission as the WC doesn't back onto a habitable room Acoustic PB, possibly two layers on the reverse will suffice, plus any acoustic wool that you can stuff into the voids will help out. Remember not to touch anything that attracts condensation!! I fitted one like this for 21 stone powerlifter, and substituted the 100mm timber ( old skool 4" stud there to start with as this was a refurb ) with 100mm x 50mm box section steel either side of the frame, lined with more timber to allow the frame to be affixed iirc. Steel was also used for the footer and the header and that did not move 1mm,. even with me stood on the front edge of the pan with both feet bouncing my weight gently up and down.

We're just in the middle of dry testing a sizeable project before boarding commences. All back boxes in, all loop-ins Wago'd together and insulation resistance testing galore to be completed before a single board goes over anything / anywhere major. I like to back roll the cables at the boxes so they cannot be pushed back into the grommet and become lost in the studwork / void. Some spreads, sadly, have the brain power of a plant, and I've been back to jobs where the cables have been pushed back into the voids around the boxes with zero regard as to how they are to be retrieved. Spreads like to shoot straight across a board when skimming, so they can get things nice and flat, so anything protruding is fair game.

Captain S is on site for me atm, only have to tell him complex things once. Bliss. Yup. So very refreshing to meet someone like-minded who can just be left to work to his own devices, without babysitting. ?

Things like this usually get added to the growing stack of "good ideas", and fall to the wayside when you realise that life is too short to worry about things as minor ( even more so when there is an ever-growing list of things far more major to tend to )..... A good idea to put the offcut UFH pipes in as conduits, and simply run them to a single back box with a blank plate on, and a Cat 5/6 back to a plant / data location for 'Justin'.

You cannot solvent weld onto that fitting. It would either be a push fit manufacturer supplied connector or a compression fitting as you have mentioned. IIRC the Wedi formers have a metal ring on the underside, and there is supposed to be a chunky compression rubber seal ( usually supplied with the waste ) that separates the top of the part above from the underside of the tray a little. Do you have one?

Have you closed all of the pump isolation valves fully, and then reopened them fully so you know they're all open 100%?

Depends whether or not it has baffles / vanes inside tbh. Then it becomes flow / return / load specific.

Solar reflective glazing is very effective. I was quite impressed by just how much impact that had on nuisance solar ‘intrusion’.

I’ve specified dot n dabbing on 2 current new builds where I’m the project M&E coordinator. I’m expecting sub 0.3 ACH results from both blower tests. One being booked in presently, now the windows and doors are nearly all in, so I’ll try to remember to post the results. We’ll be doing both an ‘interim’ and an ‘as-built’ test on each. They’re both woodcrete ICF. You can do anything you like, as long as someone has a handle on quality and is there to highlight the not so obvious points of failure and mitigate against them as required; ( eg liquid airtightness membrane / closed cell foam / tapes / mastic etc ).

Oh, and have the plant wherever you want, it’s not much more work to pull the cables or pipes to where they terminate, but it is nice to get the plumbing eg cylinder / manifolds together. Nice, but by no means essential or discernibly money-saving afaic. BUT!! Have the basement anyway!! What a fantastic use of the footprint of the property, and some great extra space. I’d have a basement at a drop of a hat, pennies allowing of course.

DNO will allow you a max of 3m of exposed service / supply cable after it enters the house. So unless that cable is coming in through a sealed and watertight penetration they’ll likely refuse to bring it in elsewhere and allow the cable to traverse the dwelling to any useful extent. I got away with 5m or so once by going through a 32mm galv conduit and burying that in the centre of a 500mm ceiling void of a basement flat. It helped that the lads installing it were very young.

I’ve emailed to see if they’ll do a one off favourable rate inc P&P for a single unit “as a sample” ? Let’s see what they say.

I just happen to have one left surplus from a Nu-Heat install, where it was incorrectly specified and sent with an order.

PM me if you go to order. I may want to give one of these a whirl and maybe we can split shipping costs?

Yes. Can work well if the hot water demand is low there. There are boiling water taps which have a small tank and the water gets blended to produce DHW, just limited amounts. Probably suffice if you have a dishwasher and just a couple / small household.