Nickfromwales

I would have neither, and go underslung?

Hi. What you need to do, sir, is take the rest of the day off and plug yourself into the BH search engine. Delete everything you think you know, or what you've heard elsewhere, and go dig up the wealth of gold-standard information that resides here. Don't be afraid of blowing the dust off topics and adding new questions, as that is the best way of keeping our library here in good order I've installed many ( for clients ) which ( subject to them not buying cheap 'Chinese' units ) have been whisper quiet or completely inaudible. MVHR does not move / control heat, that would be HVAC or forced air systems with huge ducts and monster air flow rates

Exceptional attention to detail from the timber frame producers and erectors. Not seen work as neat and presentable as that for quite some time. Love the red front door, what a great signature Have you applied to the DNO for capacity of A/C coupled batteries as well as that whopper of an array? The A/C capacities ( PV and intended battery ) combined seem high for a 1ph installation? Tres bien.

Dragons Den moment there 🙄

You must have lots of gold medals for swimming?

You do like life on the edge....... Still got all 10 here, but I am very sure that's down to luck with what I've got up to over the years

Oh, and get rid of the full height noggins! Replace with ones 25-50mm lower, ventilating at the top and bottom of the runs. I bought metal racking which came with MDF shelves ( crappy 9mm POS ) but they have been the only thing to harbour moisture and grow mould. The OSB3 shows zero signs of this, so will be what I replace these crappy shelves with.

You measure, I'll cut

Err, nope! A trap is formed when the pipe rises again, after the basin has discharged, 'trapping' water eg blocking the pipe. Yours both show continuous falls so are fine, however option 1 would be the quietest method. You hear much more nose / sound from water changing direction and from significant drops before the invert. FYI I have started wrapping soil and waste pipes with Kilmat / other sound deadening mat as a solution to banning the higher frequency noise, plus as much acoustic rockwool insulation as is practicable for the lower. It is imperative that the pipe runs do NOT contact the metal frame as that will be like an amplifier.

An interesting comparison to what others have said, but a very relevant consideration if maxing out on grid-tied PV. The OP may be in a better position due to the split arrays producing steadier all-day-long output vs a huge south facing array peaking at midday.

Ironically, it could make you worse off, due to being closer to the grid max voltages for the inverters to shut down at ( 253v ).

Would be no point in producing a higher output panel unless it kept to the typical panel sizes so I assume it'll be kept down to the 'normal' size, or as very near-to as damnit. I have no idea on costs, but will update as soon as this information gets released from he UK reps for Solarwatt.

The bottom line is, there is no short-cut here.

You'd have to build up the existing floor with a blinding layer, to make it snooker table flat. This needs to be immaculate work, and robust enough to not settle retrospectively, as it'll be what levels the whole floor and stops it caving in. I've been to many where the sub-floor prep has been ignored / not given the attention it needed, and I've been asked to rip the lot out and start again..........mostly insurance claims at that point due to the costs and inconvenience. Can you dig out a core to see what thickness the concrete / screed (?) layer is and to confirm what is that you have to work with? You may find it's just a sub 100mm layer which could be removed easily.

They'll use the gel-filled cable as the draw wire

Remember that kg/m2 rtings must include tiles and adhesive / other wall covering. Hence the normal Bregs requirement for 400mm OC's in bathrooms. Ply / OSB3 whatever, but boarding out a bathroom is a complete no brainer for strength / solidity, and to allow the occupier the means to screw anything anywhere with excellent purchase for the fixings. Nothing pisses you off more than a loo roll holder that wont stay straight, or a glass shelf that is drooping.

If adhering to Bregs, I'm pretty sure the BCO will not want waste pipes buried in a wall dividing a bedroom from a room with such services in it. The 'preference' is to surface mount the waste pipes inside the 'offending' room. You could mitigate with deeper studs and a double layer of acoustic plasterboard to the bedroom side, but best to ask your BCO first in case they turn out to be a jobsworth.

Thanks for that. If this is just a shed, why are you spending ( wasting ) any more money with plasterboard / other finises? I painted my ceiling rafters with the same grey floor paint, and all looks perfectly fine to me. Maybe time to stop now, and stop making any more problems to solve. Certainly do NOT fit recessed lighting!! Surface mounted for sure with low profile trunking. Will be plenty neat enough.

Yup. You could also state "by a competent registered installer", but you'd be fully entitled to choose either route retrospectively Box-ticking exercise. The Solarwatt BMS is a very clever bit of kit and monitors the house / PV / consumption patterns and 'learns'. It then decides when it is optimal to charge or discharge. Not insignificant then. I would put all of this into hybrid(s) and batteries, as you'll need to conserve outgoings to make this cost-effective. FYI, Solarwatt are soon to release a panel with an output of 540w !! And yes, we install a LOT of Solarwatt, plus Fronius and Solaredge, but I am looking longer and harder at the cream of the Chinesium offerings atm as maxing out on the D/C side is the future ( until th DNO's give everyone 3ph or a more realistic limit of 1ph at least ).

The pump inlets have gauze filters ( or should have ). If these get blocked by fine debris from the tanks then they will allow water to flow but at a restricted rate. Most pumps switch on via the flow switches in the pump outlets, so those need a minimum flow rate to stay 'in'. Perhaps the flow is just on the cusp of being not quite enough to keep the flow switch in. Either that or a failing flow switch. A strip down of the pump and a service ( check manufacturers website for instructions / to do list ) and go from there.

The wet plaster approach is a good start tbh, but detailing at the joist levels needs a method statement creating for the builder to follow ( adhere to! ) but you can laminate this proposed solution with tapes and membranes, including liquid membranes such as Passive Purple. We've just got a Velox ICF build in at 0.88ach including the doors and windows losses with my suggestions to the builder and the introduction of this 'hybrid' approach, which is pretty damn good afaic!! The fabric of the build is probably in the 0.5-0.6 range but as the doors and windows never got masked off we shall never know. Good quality foams / tapes / membranes etc will be worth every penny. Everyone's attention to detail..........priceless.

Ok. So how do you envisage the batteries knowing that you have excess, and for the software of the BMS to initiate charge for those specific / sporadic pockets of opportunity? If you’re already getting FiT then you have your cake. Divert excess into hot water and you get the cherry. If the other areas for PV are not optimal, and you factor in scaffolding, wiring to / from etc, the economics soon head for the nearest window. If you wish to pursue this, then I’d recommend a dual input hybrid inverter, set to zero export, with your new panels feeding into input 1, and your batteries on input 2. That will put all the new micro generation on the D/C side this not upsetting the DNO when you register. Also, you can put as much battery storage on the D/C side as you like as the A/C side ( grid ) never ‘sees’ it. The biggest issue you’ll have is with finding equipment that will communicate with / support optimisers. That’s the current issue with the system I take delivery of shortly has, but I will likely just add further inverters to take each effective string. Puts the cost up, and elongates the payback, but I’m owed a lot of favours so am getting my equipment for a song ( thankfully ) otherwise I doubt I’d have gone for so much battery storage ( 24kwh intended at this time but will likely double that to 48 in the near future after 12 months of statistical data had been recorded / reviewed ). I’m putting panels on a lot of outbuildings +newly ( purpose built ) “solar gazebo” , as well as the rear of the roof. Do as @SteamyTea says, and work out what the new arrays will likely produce. Then the cost of all the equipment, and have a good think. Optimising your use of peak solar / high load devices and divert to hot water may mop up all of your current excess

Real world experience always brings these chats back down to earth. When I was installing comms for Panasonic we’d regularly be on solicitors / doctors / cooperate settings, and I’d drop a false ceiling tile and the rats nest of data / phone / mains would be like a spider web. Everything still working perfectly with zero segregation, or less. We do strive for the immaculate, just a little to much sometimes.

Hi. The issue you’ll have is how to connect the shower door to that panel to ‘complete’ the enclosed shower area. The return profile usually needs ( requires ) drilled fixings which may be deeper than the ‘stone’ if only 20mm. Sticking with glass would be a lot simpler, and would give the room a much more open feel. I think that stone panel would be quite obtrusive in such a small room vs glass. My own opinion of course

Some people choose to pour their hard earned cash into different endeavours, regardless of the economics. Entirely their prerogative. The heart wants what the heart wants. If you did a proper paper study, the heart would ( should ) get overruled by the head. Bottom line is, do whatever you wish with your money, but hear, here, the pros / cons / caveats in order to arrive at your own informed decision. My 2 cents is, for the biggest damn tank you can afford, as that’s when ( and IMO ONLY when ) it makes any sense to install RWH.