Nickfromwales

Low temp slab can usually get away without expansion joints, but deffo good insurance with screed. ??

They only get energised to change state, and that stores energy in a spring to return to the parked position ( Honeywell do anyhoo ) unassisted by electrical input. Your above statement is too general, eg “several different ones”. Which ones? State the valve type and model of the ones that consumes power 24/7/365 please. I’ve got Honeywell ZV’s that have been in for 20 years now and fitted for people I see frequently.

Needs to be off / slab cold for at least 48hrs before going anywhere near it with tile adhesive. That’s for the Ditra too. Mop the dry screed with 50/50 primer and water until pretty much saturated. Old school janitors mop is the weapon of choice, and mopping gets all the dust / surface contamination dealt with. Not lost a tiled floor in nearly 3 decades of tiling. Do NOT turn the UFH back on for a minimum of 2 weeks after laying, and then start at the lowest temp and increase by 2oC every 48hrs.

Oh, and turn the heating down! 40oC is too hot for a new / fresh screed. That deffo didn’t help 30oC max for a month.

Hairline cracks in screed are commonplace. Lost count of how many floors I’ve had put down and had subsequently cracked in more than one place, and were tiled over without issue. Relax. At the VERY worst, if the crack was ‘serious’ or lots of them, you’d ask your tiler to install a decoupling membrane ( like Ditra Mat etc ) and sleep well. What size is the screeded area?

Honeywell for me. Used them since day 1 and never had any issues. Reliable and robust. Industry standard afaic.

Just a note: Don’t forget to run BLACK MDPE pipes NOT BLUE for anything other than potable water.

Building control doesn’t give 2 hoots about Bruce and Sheila mate They’re the ones that need appeasing.

Rainwater is category 5, which is about as bad as it gets in terms of its introduction into a residential dwelling where it can come into contact with / affect the health of humans. Im currently installing a RWH system, and the list of criteria to bring water for WC flushing and a washing machine is minimal in fairness ( 3 stage filtration with the facility to back-wash etc ) but in terms of it being ANYWHERE near potable systems then it’s a totally different ball game. To have the cold mains refill facility, eg a point where RWH and potable supplies converge, you need to fit double check valves to the cold mains fill point, have a 37mm ( A / A air break ) gap and label up accordingly, and that’s just for toilets snd washing machine. Borehole not an option?

Depends how much heat energy the fabric of your home loses and what it then takes to recover it. Better off leaving it idle at a setback temp perhaps vs off?

80% guaranteed at the 10 year anniversary with SolarWatt, vs 70% with Solaredge. SW are using the same cell tech as is rolling out in the new BMW EV’s. SolarWatt are 100% owned by the brother and sister who own 80% of BMW. Pretty robust in terms of warranty longevity imho.

I’m tired. Just let me have that one ok. ?

?. Don’t you achieve that by not turning anything on much or at all? ?

Oh yea of little faith. I’m like a Swiss Army knife mate.

Chuck a DC Solarwatt battery on before the inverter and it’s not notifiable. You could put as much as you like in then as the only AC coupled stuff would be your existing equipment. ?.

It does if you want an MCS cert for the export payments, Baldric .

Agree with the above 100%, but it’s almost pointless going crazy in the extension and having that bolted to a draughty bag-o-carp You can have huge amounts of insulation ( to help with fabric heat loss ) but that will mean nothing without airtightness ( to help with ventilation heat loss ). With very good detailing eg attention to / knowledge of airtightness, you can then integrate an MVHR system, to recover otherwise lost heat from the infiltration. Infiltration can be from deliberate sources rather than missed opportunity, so be aware that a regular BRegs build would mandate trickle vents if you go airtight aka ‘draught proof’ beyond a certain ACH score. Also, you cannot just fit MVHR to the “good half” of a house MVHR will be one of the biggest rewards if you put the effort in, more so than just putting loads of insulation everywhere.

Over 9m2 area requires planning permission.

If this is a constructional concrete slab with re-bar / ring beams and intersections, then I’ve seen far more complex slabs down without any of that. Is this to take their ( MBC’s ) passive or regular TF? Just wondering what the required flow temp will be. If low, as in very low, then I strongly doubt these are required.

A few tubs and some ballast. A days work at most.

A complete new lpg gas combi boiler system? Hold on a minute, squire. The new Vaillant gas boilers are as quiet as a mouse being shouted at for chewing cheese too loudly in the mouse library. OK, let’s crunch the numbers….. @zoothorn, what can you buy electricity for during the hours that you will use CH? Can you price LPG locally and add that cost figure too please? I assume they’ll suggest 4x 47kg bottles on a 2 pair tandem switchover arrangement, or have they said lpg tank? How far have they gone into this? Any breakdown or proposal? Info please!!

Not gross, when you add in servicing etc. Close, but no cigar.

Cheaper than oil or LPG, negative Nelly. Servicing etc far less complex / costly with a HP.

That can be set to midday, so far far away from sleepy time

Tidy. No coils so just an open body of water. Simplistic, and quiet. Praise the lord ( should there be such a thing ).