Nickfromwales

That was a thermal store ( TS ) not an unvented hot water cylinder ( UVC ).

Was having this exact discussion with my sparky on site this afternoon lol. We both gave up eventually and decided to use common sense, plus the clients were sensible enough to buy fittings to ‘road test’ the ones favoured vs areas of concern which helped. If you realise that a single pendant in the middle of a 15’ x 15’ room is / was the norm, and that had a 60w bulb ( or “lamp” if you’re a sparky ? lol ) and then some manky shade wrapped around it killing off most of the light output then it brings you back to earth. I do lighting design for most of my clients, so come across this quite often. Regs / the good book don’t really give much definitive help because they don’t take into account wall colour, room height, fitting type / material / emission etc so common sense has to prevail imo and getting fittings to test before final fitting is a good idea for sure.

None. Afaik. Only issues arise when you’ve burnt the gas and it is odourless / poisonous ( CO1 ).

Down to 1v if open circuit, but I think they will allow full operation when they see the inverter.

C’mon…….you could instantly tell which socket the fire was plugged into as it was brown instead of white!! I’d be interested to know how many deaths from fires were attributed to these, back in the day…. In principal we both know this would work. Then you put your sparky hat on and things change significantly. If someone were to come in to work on this, and one heater had failed, they may then, mistakenly, drop the dead heater out and run the working one off the plug top. They’d think they were being a hero, but they then put you at risk. What you / we do for ourselves is not something we can do for 3rd parties, particularly when there is a liability trail and a warranty / commission of a new CU. The chat here is just a little ‘loose’ in terms of who “could” do “what”. You can set fire to your own house or electrocute a family member, but I cannot do that for a client. If somebody wants to DIY this as you suggest, then that’s fine, in principal, but imo not a good idea at all. I like your posts, don’t take me wrong, it’s just a huge no-no from a sparky PoV to have 2x 230 volt devices connected up in series in a residential domestic setting, unless they came that way from the manufacturer and the unit was supplied with 1x 230 volt input and then split this after the incoming connection. Technically you could ask a sparky to give you the 13a socket and then plug into it whatever you wish, but then the liability and responsibility lays with you for whatever happens downstream.

Why not get a basic design done, and then work out the difference it would make when upping from one duct to a valve to two ducts. I always double up on longer runs to bedrooms or living spaces regardless to reduce the audibility, and also fit attenuators ( silencers ) between the MVHR unit and the manifolds for belt and 3 braces.

That’s the ‘gizmo’ that should never have been allowed to be omitted by an over involved customer. The installer should have said that it’s not optional and priced to include it.

As an example of what kit it could have been that was “decided against”. If the smart panels were that smart, then the OP would be reading the output of each panel on their hub, would they not, and answering most of their own questions?

One is a product produced for the consumer eg plug n play, thus they’re typically fitted with a ( often moulded and irreplaceable ) 13a plug. So no, apples and oranges in your explanation which is misleading and may confuse readers unnecessarily The self build world is rife with part or ill informed hero’s who attempt to carry out work which is either illegal for them to do, or just bloody stupid of them to even attempt. A Willis heater is a plumbing part not a domestic appliance, so nobody should buy one, let alone fit one, if they know nothing about basic / core electrical principals. Some have the sense to seek out information from resources like Buildhub, even though at that stage they should really be searching tor a good electrician, but if they do end up here it is important that what they read is sound, robust and relevant. Comparing domestic appliances with heating parts is none of the above, and nobody should ever take what is written on the ‘net as gospel…….always consult a qualified electrician and at the very least have that person plan the install with you, and test / commission it for you. Be safe people!!

https://www.solaredge.com/sites/default/files/solaredge-meter-installation-guide.pdf

Just to bring this back down to Terra Firma for a mo; The Willis heaters are built, tested and sold on the basis that they will perform admirably as delivered, eg -3kW max delivery switched by the in built stat. The reason I use them, and fit 2x, is that you can dump circa 6kWh into a heat load at any one time, reliably. If there was a remit to dump 1 or 1.5kWh linear I would choose a different device. This is almost scaremongering afaic…. This thread has discussed Willis heaters, not kettles, so for this thread to be of value, let’s keep the apples and apples together For completeness, Willis heaters would absolutely never be on 13a plugs, and always on the 20a DP switches that they require for safe, reliable use. I installed some Willis heaters once, alongside my sparky, and they went in hardwired into 13a fused spurs fed from 16a rcbo’s. I subsequently got shot down ( aka re-educated ) here and was duly informed that they should have been on 20a DP switches ( which my company then instructed my sparky to return to site to change accordingly, with immediate effect ). That made me then go away and revisit this, as more than a few of my new build ‘passive’ clients had also expressed an interest in going “all electric” so I wanted to be sure I had a robust method of going forward with their heating / DHW arrangements. Ergo, I am now VERY familiar with this method and discipline of heating, and its execution. I have been granted access to data collection from some of these all electric clients, so I hope to be able to summarise in a year or so across the board with the different dwelling types. The above-mentioned Willis heaters had, however, been in for a full winter ‘heating’ season, fitted into a PH which used 2x Willis heaters for CH, and none of the system components showed absolutely any evidence of degradation / fatigue etc. The use of bootlace ferrules is of huge significance here, as no known heavy loads on flexible cables should be made off without them, a-la @TerryE’s comments above. There would only be issues with “boiling” aka kettling if there is insufficient water flow / circulation or the in built stats on the Willis heater(s) we’re set too high. This is all either controllable or can be mitigated by design.

Please report back here as the info comes in.

Dave, stop being a dinosaur If an ASHP install cam go into a domestic residence ( like yours ) then there is no reason why the same principals of operation cannot go into any other residence with the same simplicity. It’s just a W-plan ( hot water priority ) at the end of the day so not exactly “new technology” There’s no reason whatsoever why gas / oil / electric boiler manufacturers should not have adopted this sooner imo. I can remember having this conversation with Vaillant tech support about 9 years ago and they thought I was a nut job. This country is still getting used to just having started walking upright……

Is this south facing, / mixed elevations / east - west split?

Can you elaborate on these comments from your installer / commissioning agent? This was for the modbus unit to give you full scale monitoring and better remote access /.system “readability”. You say they needed it, so why did you elect not to bother with it? They do not correct problems with shading, they maximise the amount of solar revenue when parts of the array are suffering from shading. If the modbus was installed this would be easy to identify. Prob good to be sure the inverter is a ‘dual string’ inverter too. @dnoble is this the case?

I fitted Vaillant and Baxi mostly for a long time, and often wondered why they hadn’t adopted this type of approach. Really good idea ( and option ) to be able to define the output temps vs application.

Distance?

“Ime wrong”? “I’m wrong” would have got you off that hook lol

It will be “more solid” and that may be all the justification that you need Go forth and glue, and report back here with your conclusion please

Agreed, but, the OP has already got a light floating floor, so bonding down onto that is not going to give the same solid feel as you’d get when bonding to a fixed substrate or screed etc, so the question has to be; will there be any added value here in spending money bonding this down? The bamboo is already a very dense material so will sound solid underfoot regardless imo.

You’ll be preparing for a long time…. Keep the questions coming, you have my curiosity!! Maybe exchange “off grid” for “minimal grid dependency”?

Why are you bonding it down?

A second Willis heater yes. The reason I always fit 2 of these is for a) redundancy, and b) to be able to push a lot more heat energy into the slab aka storage heater in any available ( sometimes short ) pocket of cheap rate electricity. Plus they’re cheaper than shoplifting, so, if the WH is your sole means of CH, why would you not install such a cheap and simple fail-safe? You could even set another pair of these up, with the stat temp maxed out and the ‘charge’ pump speed set slow, to fully recharge your SA in sub 2 hours for when you need DHW under duress eg guest occupancy etc or showers back to back. Would need a TMV to not breach SA’s curious warranty criteria, but doable.

Why can your ground floor stud walls be built atop a course of engineering bricks? They can then stay, and the screed gets poured / laid around them. What am I missing re what the stud walls will sit on?

No more red for you tonight lol. Don Juan