Nickfromwales

……… you’d like to fix the ASHP ctrl so you can heat DHW via the heat pump? One of these if not; LINK

I’ve read that twice, and haven’t got a clue what were being asked, sorry Is this for use in a house? On site as an alternative to a Portaloo? You’ll need to add some more detail please!

PIV Use the ugly spray foam and just look at the metal beasties vs looking up!?! 🙄

I know of many heavy smokers who lived into their 80’s and beyond. Extreme cases can be demonstrated all day long, but the actual flow / velocity etc required, constantly, to create these issues simply do not present themselves in the high majority of domestic installations.

For heating, I only ever use gate valves or suitable metal seated lever ball valves. For potable, eg hot / cold water, see the link I gave a few posts back

Defo use the rest bend for a long radius return from vertical to horizontal, as there will be a lot of oomph needed to get the dolphins along the straight horizontal run and out to sea. Have that rest bend going immediately into a 135 Y branch, with the branch off to whichever side is open for access, with the branch not flat but just set up maybe 15o to ensure nothing gets left to sit in the internal ‘mouth’ of the branch. Into that unused branch outlet you then install a 110mm rodding access cap. If you ever need to ‘empty out’ you can just grab the branch and rotate it to get the branch facing slightly downhill, then simply ask the most annoying relative / visitor you know to hold a large bucket whilst you shout instructions, telling them how many more turns on the cap before the magic happens etc. You could make like easier by doing all of this in 150mm, if you’re going to use 150mm for the horizontal run? That way, the friend or relative can get their forearm in to manually grab any problematic item. 👍

Bugger. Just spotted the compression onto pushfit, which I despise, but here it is catastrophic. The ballofix isolation valve does t have enough depth to get the insert and the olive in far enough to be robust. That one, and any others like it, need cutting out ASAP. This is especially problematic if the pushfit is JG speed fit pipe , but I can see a hep2o elbow there so it’ll hopefully have the very thin stainless insert. Sorry, but another issue to add to the rectify list……..

None of those things! High opacity Matt white emulsion, a couple of coats, and then sand that down to a finish.

One of these With one of these shoved in Change of £5

Rubber insert and a cleaning eye?

The only issue with battening off one wall, is that it has a knock-on effect to the perpendicular unit runs, as in they must all move forwards with that unit too.

It’s functional, so no case anyhoo….. Maybe chooses from recommendations from friends and family?

Link You’ll see the full bore isolations have a much fatter body than the poky little ones. When they get removed, as to see inside one You can’t fit a pencil through one.

Fingers crossed for the third!!

Actually kudos to @Jeremy Harris as I quite liked a lot of his ideas for his first setup, much as you have there, so I built on that as a ‘game changer’ in how I thought things through. He had the exact same combination cylinder as you’ve installed, but then ditched it due to the significant latent heat loss, using a SA instead. I’m very much still learning / improving myself btw…. Such a great forum, just for the diversity of the members and their knowledge and comprehensive feedback, which is simply gold dust.

Removing the back of the sink unit is normal play for me, so I can properly clip all the pipework to the sold wall vs the crappy bit of 4mm hardboard. If removing that gets you what you need, get the machete out and get it gone. Soon be too full of Ajax and MrSheen and 4 candles for the back to be seen anyways

Jesus Christ! Get them all taken out. Ticking time bombs. Stinks of a lazy plumber who’s used those to save draining down properly. Seriously, they all need coming out.

Turn the Allen head grub screw. DON’T touch the nut! The seal wears out after a few years due to the ferrous particulate in the water eroding it. 30 years of fitting them

The ballofix valve shouldn’t be of CH pipework though. I hate seeing them used. Should be ( if absolutely necessary ) full bore valves, not a ballofix, as they are very narrow bore and are usually used for isolating hot / cold feeds ( mains pressure ).

Ah, OK The plumber has fitted the balancing valve, and you’re staring at it Grab the circular chrome cap of the valve that side and unscrew it. Bingo

Read the MI’s…. If it doesn’t state that removing the shart euro plug will invalidate the warranty then doing so cannot be enforceable.

Do you have a pic of the isolation valve please? Do you mean they fitted a ballofix valve? One of these?

I’ve just got off the phone to them……… Answer: Because they are a bunch of cocks

The actual number of clean cut ends I’ve de-burred in my career is close to zilch. Detrimental effects to date? Zilch. Invite a dozen plumbers in to your home and allow each of them to install a section of copper, and see what they do……….. As long as your pipe slice ( rotary cutting tool ) has a nice sharp blade you’ll be fine. I do, of course, expect you to ignore absolutely all of the above and meticulously de-burr each and every copper section you install, and I will salute you for doing so .

It “can” be sealed up. Just would you want to do that? I’ve not yet had to delete an overflow in over 25 years of plumbing / bathroom / kitchen fitting, so I’d say find a way to keep it tbh.