Nickfromwales

Elaborate, please?

Hi. Any T connection to an existing pipe run is called a "branch", and regardless of pitch it is still a "change in direction" so will require either; 1) An IC to allow rodding access at said branch or 2) Accessible rodding access inside the house where the pipe terminates vertically, immediately upon entering the dwelling. The latter is quite undesirable, due to having to create access for rodding / maintenance, and I would certainly go for adding an external IC. Ultimately this will be down to your building control officer's decision, and not yours or 'ours'

They can be run at the same time, but my point was during summer ( most of it ) where the RWH tank cold fill system would be filling off the mains at the same time you want max cold mains potential yourself for showers etc, even more of an annoyance if the supply is already meagre. Filling the bog is not life or death, nor any appliances, they’ll just ‘eventually’ fill, but if you want a shower then it’s likely ( and no, not for you ) that the DHW device will be very much cold mains dependant. 👎. How is this set up? When I checked the regs you could not create a physical link between RHW and the potable mains supply, so no 2 position valve etc ( or a setup like a softener bypass ) is permissible. The only thing I could see to do this with was a boiler filling loop, 2 lots of double check non returns, and a removable filling link which could only be connected to one or the other, and NEVER the two supplies together.

So with a conservative install cost of £5k start to finish you’d need to be able to completely fill and completely empty this ~240 times to cover purchase price, without ever using the mains.

Likewise.

Nope.

Will you be running outside taps off this also, for gardening / window cleaning / jet washing patios? If not, then I wouldn’t install one tbh, as the investment doesn’t ever look holistically kosher to me when I’m asked to include one for a new build client. Unless you’re maximising the savings by seriously offsetting your mains water dependable then I’d seriously spend this money on more PV which makes far more sense. Cost of system plus cost of installation, maintenance / cleaning filters, inevitable pump replacement, additional segregated plumbing system in the house, electrical consumption during operation etc etc vs just buying water from the mains doesn’t make sense at all to me, unless you go for a huge tank say 10,000L which WOULD make sense, just about. I’ve recommended to a recent few clients not to bother with RWH unless the size of the tank is a minimum of 7-8000L, as when you get a dry spell <2500L of a typical 3000L tank will be gone quite quickly and you’ll be back to running off mains supply anyways. When it’s raining there’s more water than you’ll need even for outside taps etc as the garden is already wet and you’re inside in the dry not using them / washing car / windows / patio etc. Then add the inconvenience of typically having to have an indoors break tank for the pump to fill, which means you then have a gravity feed to WC’s and W/M, and then that’s me out completely. Most modern cisterns won’t be suitable for such low pressure supplies, and I had to swap out the fill valves on the 1st floor WCs for one client ( who had already self installed the tank ). You’ll need ‘attic’ space to install this coffin tank if you want any useful pressure ( head ), and access to it for maintenance, plus accept the noise of it filling and emptying. Or, depending on the size of system, you may need an accumulator for attenuation if the gravity break tank isn’t an option. Another pita is, when you eventually need to run off potable mains water, that will be when you prob still have over 500L or more left in a 3000L tank, ( eg when the pump float drops down and mains feed system kicks in to top you up from metered, potable water ) and that 500L capacity is rendered unusable for the lifetime of the system. Not sure if some manufacturers state useful capacity vs capacity? Salespeople rarely dwell on negatives btw This system is designed to not fully fill the tank when consuming potable mains water, so, for periods of little or no rainfall ( aka summer ) the frequency of the pump running will be far greater than in the rainy seasons, further labouring and fatiguing the expensive pump. Then the mains filling ( run dry / failsafe ) system needs detailing; This is normally achieved by installing a rainwater gulley trap in the floor under the stairs / utility / other inside the dwelling, and a cold mains water feed then gets poured into this via a solenoid and an open pipe feeding mains water into a tundish > gulley, eg to eventually get to the tank but purposefully indirectly . FYI, you are NOT allowed to install the cold water feed in the turret of the tank as RHW is classed as Cat5 water ( as bad as sewerage ) and an A/B ( iirc ) air break between potable mains supply and the RWH must exist for water bylaws compliance. For a previous client, we ended up putting this into the garden shed, as there was zero chance ever of me installing a rainwater gully inside a residential domestic dwelling!! Plus the noise of the water gushing into an open tundish would be less than ideal afaic. That could be timed but it’s not recommended, ergo this could go into ‘fill mode’ whilst you’re trying to shower, sapping valuable cold mains pressure for extended periods of time, and often……. The pump failing once every 10 years will pretty much wipe out that decades savings for a small capacity system. Looks great on paper no doubt, but not in reality. So, no from me, unless the numbers make sense, which they don’t. Buy more PV instead.

PM me if you need help to spec the TS, and don’t forget to go via Trevor at cylinders2go, mentioning my username and the forum. He’ll look after you 👍

It is symptomatic of a failed AAV. What does the stack do after it rises from the ground floor > bedroom?

If you like gurgles, then agreed with top pipe T.

Yup, yup…..and thrice, yup.

Dead simple. Telford TS, 28mm DHW coil, no other coils. Oil > TS primary water. 22 or 28mm circs, depending on size of boiler, 21-26 will be fine on 22mm circs. Set the stat and boiler flow temps to suit and away we go 👍🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿 You’ll want high and low stat pockets in the cylinder to be able to better reference / respond, vs the one cyl stat. Will give you guest mode then, more stored ( heated ) primary water for sporadic higher usage. A bit like the old “basin / bath” setups on the old E7 / E10 cylinders of yesteryear.

Has someone stood in the utility whilst the WC is flushed to listen for pipes ‘burping’ out stench from the foul system?

You cannot have EPS in contact with PVC electrical cables.

https://myhouseandstuff.wordpress.com/2016/04/03/how-to-install-window-ventilation-on-upvc-windows/

Yup. You don’t need a router, most are done in the factory by a gibbon with a drill and they simply do a series of holes, then ream them out to make a ‘slot’. Few minutes work max in PVC.

Where is the toilet? Ground floor or first?

Also chat with your window supplier, as trickle vents should be a retro fit option afaik.

Defo one for “less haste, more speed”

Look also at Wunda, as they seem to have a lot more info on their site. May be worth considering their options, but I have no idea of price comparability etc.

Gives pretty much constant, instant hot water production. Oil + TS is a very good solution for DHW. Same with gas, but gas starts to throttle down as it nears the set temp, oil doesn’t.

Another which needs to be put to your BCO, as they will have to agree this with you before you order anything.

We can advise, but you absolutely MUST get this answered by your BCO!! If you don’t, on your head be it. Your paying for the privilege, so use that to your advantage, and ask all these questions directly, noting the answers. Saves doing things twice, at 4 times the price. Consider where these rise, as sticking them in the corners is what we did 30 years ago. I design the slabs for my clients and out the rising foul water pipes where I want them, deleting long horizontal runs and certainly zero boxing in etc. Don’t rush this, take some time and give it some thought. Do you want a sunken shower tray / wet room former on the ground floor? If so, you’ll need a shuttered out section of slab, and a dedicated FW riser, sunken, to take the waste from it. Measure 3 or 4 times, cut once. 👍

Sorry, higher surface area coil ( same as a high recovery coil in an UVC ). I specify a 28mm DHW coil to get far better flow rates and connect to a 28mm TMV, then reduce to 22mm pipe work to go to distribution manifolds etc. For the TS, you do not have a coil between the TS and the oil boiler, which allows you to dump the huge amount of heat it produces per burn, directly to that internal volume of brine ( primary ) water, by going at that directly.

First thing to check. Turn the system off, let it go 'cold' and then switch on at max. See which of the flow and return pipes get hot first to eliminate reversed flow to one of the two manifolds. Opening the TMV's should increase flow on both, so something strange going on there.